Assetto corsa car setup. Setting up the car. Assetto Corsa crashes on desktop

1.2. Setting the settings

Sets (car settings) are installed in the "DOCUMENTS" folder...\Users\Your Computer Name\Documents\Assetto Corsa\setups\The car you are driving\Track.
...\Documents\Assetto Corsa\setups\ferrari_2017\spa Place the steering wheel settings in the "DOCUMENTS" folder ...\Users/Document/Assetto Corsa\cfd\controllers\savedsetups

1.3. Hotkeys in the game

Ctrl+A - ABS adjustment
Ctrl+T - vehicle adjustment
Ctrl+G - enable/disable automatic transmission
Ctrl+H - hide/show all HUD elements
Ctrl+I - turn on/off the trajectory line
Сtrl+L - enable/disable names above players
Ctrl+Q - turn on/off the damage indicator
Ctrl+D - display damage indicator for a while

F1 F3 F5 F6 F7 - switch cameras, views
F8 - screenshot without interface, built-in game function
F9 - switch player list mode (bottom of screen)
F11 - on/off virtual mirror
F12 - screenshot, Steam function

Numbers from 1... to 0 - pressure adjustment in % in the turbine for some cars
Quick messages- With Num Lock On, numbers from 1 to 9
(Text of messages in the file: Documents\Assetto Corsa\plugins\ptracker - ptracker.ini - Section)

HDR The most significant performance increase, up to 115 fps, comes from disabling HDR (you can do it in the game menu). This disables FXAA, and the picture again becomes less smooth, the lines become jagged... But it becomes less rideable.
You can lower other anti-aliasing parameters, and the FPS will rise further, but the picture becomes too unpleasant. Mirrors C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini Grass C:\Users\Eyefinity\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\video.ini
WORLD_DETAIL=5 ; 0 to 5
The complete absence of grass gives plus 5 fps. Reflections C:\Users\Eyefinity\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\video.ini
SIZE=1024
Reducing the size of the reflected texture gives an increase of 5-7 fps. At the same time, the quality of reflection in the car naturally deteriorates. To make it simple, you can set it to 128. Or you can turn it off altogether, setting it to 0. The cars will be matte, but the frame rate will increase by about 10 fps. In addition, turning off reflection affects the environment slightly. Everything will be more matte, but there will be less moire and “stirring” of textures. Shadows C:\Users\Eyefinity\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\video.ini
SHADOW_MAP_SIZE=1024
Reducing the size also gives a gain of several FPS. Shadows become more blurred. Something to do with mip mapping of LODs C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\dx11.ini
set MIP_LOD_BIAS=0
It also gives a small increase, about 5fps.

1.5. Other

Unlock the data transmission frequency of the game-wheel up to 333Hz (default 150Hz) ...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg assetto_corsa.ini FF_SKIP_STEPS=0 For those who know what ENABLE_GYRO gives in the game...\Steam \steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg assetto_corsa.ini ENABLE_GYRO=0 set to 1/dd> App pin files on the screen...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\content\gui\controls\form\ Disable arrows from opponents ...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg - proximity_indicator.ini set HIDE=1 Free camera by F5, F7 ...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg - assetto_corsa.ini ALLOW_FREE_CAMERA=0 change from 0 to 1 Camera controls: directional arrows, Shift + WASDFG ...\Steam\steamapps\common\ assettocorsa\system\cfg - camera_onboard_free.ini SPHERICAL_COORDS set to 0 Make the pit stop plugin invisible in the pit lane, (only lights up when you click on the arrows) ...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg - pitstop.ini AUTO_APP_ON_PITLANE=1 set to 0 Disable camera shake in replay...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\camera_track
CAMERA_WOBBLING_SPEED=0.0 (was 0.001)
CAMERA_WOBBLING_STRENGTH=0.0 (was 0.08) Disable the windshield in the cabin, cracked from strong impacts, did not break...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg assetto_corsa.ini GLASS_THRESHOLD=1 (was 0.65) Activate developer tools (global dynamic data by auto) ...\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg assetto_corsa.ini ENABLE_DEV_APPS=0 set to 1
P.S. Such changes are canceled when a game update is released, so with each update you need to edit the game files again.

If you are faced with the fact that Assetto Corsa slows down, crashes, Assetto Corsa does not start, Assetto Corsa does not install, controls do not work in Assetto Corsa, there is no sound, errors pop up, saves do not work in Assetto Corsa - we offer you the most common ways to solve the problem problems.

Be sure to update your video card drivers and other software

Before you remember the worst words and express them towards the developers, do not forget to go to the official website of the manufacturer of your video card and download the latest drivers. Often, drivers specially optimized for them are prepared for the release of games. You can also try installing a later version of drivers if the problem is not solved by installing the current version.

It is important to remember that you should only download the final versions of video cards - try not to use beta versions, as they may have a large number of unfound and unfixed errors.

Don't forget that games often require installation for stable operation. latest version DirectX, which can always be downloaded from the official Microsoft website.

Assetto Corsa won't start

Many problems with launching games occur due to incorrect installation. Check if there were any errors during installation, try uninstalling the game and running the installer again, after disabling the antivirus - often files necessary for the game to work are deleted by mistake. It is also important to remember that in the path to the folder with installed game There should be no Cyrillic characters - use only Latin letters and numbers for catalog names.

It also doesn’t hurt to check if there is enough space on the HDD for installation. You can try to run the game as Administrator in compatibility mode different versions Windows.

Assetto Corsa slows down. Low FPS. Lags. Friezes. Freezes

First, install the latest drivers for your video card; this can significantly increase the FPS in the game. Also check your computer's load in the task manager (opened by pressing CTRL+SHIFT+ESCAPE). If before starting the game you see that some process is consuming too many resources, turn off its program or simply end this process from the task manager.

Next, go to the graphics settings in the game. First of all, turn off anti-aliasing and try lowering the post-processing settings. Many of them consume a lot of resources and disabling them will significantly improve performance without significantly affecting the picture quality.

Assetto Corsa crashes on desktop

If Assetto Corsa often crashes to your desktop slot, try to start solving the problem by reducing the quality of the graphics. It is possible that your computer simply does not have enough performance and the game cannot run correctly. It's also worth checking for updates - most modern games have a system for automatically installing new patches. Check if this option is disabled in the settings.

Black screen in Assetto Corsa

More often than not, the problem with a black screen is an issue with the GPU. Check if your video card is compatible minimum requirements and install the latest drivers. Sometimes a black screen is a result of insufficient CPU performance.

If everything is fine with the hardware and it meets the minimum requirements, try switching to another window (ALT+TAB), and then returning to the game window.

Assetto Corsa does not install. Installation stuck

First of all, check if you have enough HDD space for installation. Remember that for the installation program to work correctly, the stated amount of space is required, plus 1-2 gigabytes of free space on the system disk. In general, remember the rule - there should always be at least 2 gigabytes of free space on the system disk for temporary files. Otherwise, both games and programs may not work correctly or may refuse to start at all.

Installation problems can also occur due to a lack of Internet connection or unstable operation. Also, do not forget to pause the antivirus while installing the game - sometimes it interferes with the correct copying of files or deletes them by mistake, considering them viruses.

Saves don't work in Assetto Corsa

By analogy with the previous solution, check the availability of free space on the HDD - both on the one where the game is installed and on the system drive. Often save files are stored in a documents folder, which is located separately from the game itself.

Controls do not work in Assetto Corsa

Sometimes game controls do not work due to multiple input devices being connected at the same time. Try disabling the gamepad or, if for some reason you have two keyboards or mice connected, leave only one pair of devices. If your gamepad does not work, then remember - games are officially supported only by controllers defined as Xbox joysticks. If your controller is detected differently, try using programs that emulate Xbox joysticks (for example, x360ce).

Sound does not work in Assetto Corsa

Check if the sound works in other programs. After this, check whether the sound is turned off in the game settings and whether the sound playback device to which your speakers or headset is connected is selected there. Next, while the game is running, open the mixer and check if the sound there is muted.

If you are using an external sound card– check for new drivers on the manufacturer’s website.

Gaming news


GAMES Tindalos Interactive and Focus Home Interactive have announced that until August 26th space strategy Battlefleet Gothic: Armada 2 will be available on Steam for free. In addition, everyone will be able to purchase the game at a big discount...

Setting up the machine in racing simulator is just as important as knowing how to corner properly. In some cases, knowing how to tune your car can be even more important. than the ability to drive without mistakes. In most cases, the ratio is approximately 70 to 30. That is, 70% of the speed rests solely on the skills of the pilot, and about 30% can be accelerated by properly tuning the car.

Settings are an individual matter

This is the first thing to understand. Each person needs an individual setup, because piloting style decides a lot. At the same settings, pilots of equal speed can show different results due to different preferences. Some people like oversteer, others like understeer. Therefore, everyone should have minimal knowledge of setting up a car, even those pilots who take it from their partners.

Basic terms

I understand perfectly well that most people already know this very well, but I do not rule out that beginners will need a definition of the word “steerability”. So, steering is a rather abstract quantity that cannot be measured. It shows the behavior of the car when turning. It can be excessive, insufficient and neutral. Oversteer - the car tends to “dive into turns”, while the rear axle is often not very stable and there is a risk of skidding. Understeer is a phenomenon in which the front axle of a car oversteers when turning. That same feeling when the steering wheel is already turned all the way, but for some reason the car drives straight. Neutral steering practically never occurs in nature, and besides, it is different for each pilot. But nevertheless, with neutral steering, the car responds perfectly to the steering wheel in all turns. This is what you should strive for when setting up your car. In fact, it is almost impossible to achieve it and we will always have to compromise. We will also mention the apex of the turn. Apex- this is the turning point, which lies as close as possible to the inside of the turn at its very center. Roughly speaking, this is that point. after which you should start accelerating.

Setting up the car

Every car has default settings - this is where to start. I recommend filling up with an average amount of fuel, because with a full tank the car loses sensitivity and reacts to changes in settings rather lazily. Why not on an empty tank? Yes, simply because races are not won in qualifying. For every driver, the main priority is the race. First, let's find the settings for the race, and then we'll see how the car drives on empty tanks. So, we are at the default settings, an average amount of fuel is gurgling in the tank. We need to drive a few laps to understand which way to go. This is an individual process for each pilot, and besides, it all depends on experience. Some people can understand in 3 laps what they need, others need ten. I don’t recommend driving less than 3-5 laps, because you need to get the car into fighting condition: at least warm up the set of tires to the required temperatures. After a short drive, you already begin to understand what is stopping you from cornering faster. And after that, this plate will be very useful to us:

The settings in the table are shown on English language, because there are a lot of localization options and different terms can be translated differently. For the same reason, I strongly recommend playing in English. This table is quite simple and understandable.

Note: FWD - front-wheel drive, RWD - rear-wheel drive.

Let's look at an example

For example, at the entrance to a fast turn, a rear-wheel drive car acquires understeer, and after the apex there is a drift of the rear axle and, as a result, oversteer. To solve this problem, look at the table. At the entrance to the turn we must have a disadvantage - therefore we need to change one of these parameters front spring+, rear spring+, front bump dumpers+, etc. The + or - sign means increasing or decreasing the parameters, respectively. For example, it is extremely undesirable to change the suspension parameters due to the fact that tire wear will increase or the balance will be disrupted on other turns. Then we need to select the parameters that we can change first. For example, in this example we can try to increase Caster first. Attention, changes to the parameter should be minor. There is no need to rush into this. If changing caster does not bring the desired effect, we return its value to its place and try something else. For example, differential settings. Often it is this detail that can give the desired effect. Fine-tuning the differential allows you to adjust the response to closing and opening the throttle valve. In our case, we will increase the Coast parameter, which allows the car to brake more effectively with its engine, and at the same time reduce the Power parameter, which will allow the car to pick up speed more smoothly and steadily when exiting a turn. As you probably already understand, we are constantly looking for balance. Changing some parameters entails changing others, and our task is to select them accurately. There is nothing complicated about this - just a normal routine.

Aerobatics

When you are limited in settings or track conditions change, you will have to adjust to the new balance of the car. You must know how to artificially induce understeer or oversteer. Oversteer during acceleration is caused by NOT pressing the gas pedal all the way (dosing the gas). If, on the contrary, you press the pedal right away, the car will go by. This effect depends on the car, type of tire, suspension settings, but nevertheless, it is present. In the same way, in order to “break” the car into a fast or medium-speed turn, you need to sharply release the gas, at the same time turn the steering wheel (in some cases, reset the gear), then add pressure on the gas pedal, correctly dosing (remember, that throttle to the floor leads to understeer).

conclusions

With the help of such simple manipulations, you can accurately select the settings for any car on any track. Note that this method works not only in Assetto Corsa, but also in other simulators (rFactor, iRacing, Project CARS). The only thing needed for this is desire and time. Over time, when you gain more experience, tuning the car will happen on an intuitive level very quickly. I hope the article was useful to someone, I wish everyone success on the track.

Description of Logitech Profiler settings

Spring Effect Strength - Enabling this parameter does not affect the feedback in any way in the game. You can put at least 0, at least 150.

Damper Effect Strength - This parameter is used by the game FFB and can be configured in the game menu with the Damping value. It is optimal to set it to 100, and already in the game, make adjustments if necessary.

Enable Centering Spring in Force Feedback Games - This effect is not tied to the game FFB, and is only needed to provide a spring, returning the steering wheel to neutral, as if it were an antediluvian steering wheel loaded with elastic bands. Of course, it is not used by anyone in modern games and simulators. However, sometimes, its small values ​​are useful to create a tighter center of the steering wheel. Its small values ​​(10-17) do not yet create a real spring, do not force the steering wheel to return to the center, but already provide slight resistance when the steering wheel is deflected, which in some games, where the steering wheel is simply completely empty in the center, creates the illusion of seamless feedback . In AC, due to the fact that FFB almost always applies some kind of steering input, this makes little sense. However, for those who like the most “dense” center, you can add a little more “density” to it.

So 10 is the value at which the effect begins to return the steering wheel to neutral in principle (with Overal Effect Strength – 101 and other FFB effects, including the main one, are completely disabled). With a value of 9, in a car in conditions where there is no general FFB, the steering wheel does not return to neutral at all - apparently the own weight of the shaft and steering wheel resists.

When FFB is turned on in the game, value 17 is the maximum at which the steering wheel does not return to neutral (in this case it is the FFB that resists).
Increasing the parameter even higher begins to interfere with the control, and when the car is stationary, the steering wheel itself returns to the central position.

Total - inclusion of values ​​10-17 adds a little “density” to the center of the steering wheel, with minimal losses for the information content of the FFB.

Also, there is an opinion that simply turning on the Enable Centering Spring in Force Feedback Games checkbox, with the parameter value set to zero, has a positive effect on the density of the center of the steering wheel. But this is not obvious in AC.

Game Settings

Filter - According to many users, this is a kind of software filter designed to smooth out sharp shocks and vibrations of the steering wheel.
But in reality, it simply increases the amplitude of the steering wheel swing when driving. From light jolts back and forth, with minimal or zero value, to a very specific rocking of the car. At large values, the steering wheel gently shifts from left to right, and if you release it while moving in a straight line, the car will turn itself either left or right. It is tied only to the main Gain parameter, and has no effect on the Kerb Effect and Road Effect and Slip Effect.

Damping - Viscosity. Dampers the steering wheel. Creates a feeling of car weight. The steering wheel becomes harder to turn, in both directions. Which negatively affects the time it takes to shift the steering wheel during counter-steering. Does not depend on other effects. But it influences all other effects the more strongly, the greater its magnitude - it absorbs them.
Only works when Damping Effect Strength is enabled in your Logitech profile.
The Damping Effect Strength values ​​in the profile and Damping in the game reinforce each other. This means that the maximum strength of the effect can be achieved with a maximum value of 150 in the profile, and a maximum value of 99 in the game. But such values ​​are very redundant, so it makes sense to set it to 100 in the profile, and then adjust it in the game to suit your feelings. With large damping values ​​and small Gain values, the astringent effect of the parameter is so high that the steering wheel will not tend to the neutral position at all - turn it, release it, and it will remain in that position, even with the car moving.

That is, this effect does not carry any informational or useful load. Therefore, it can be disabled either in the profile or in the game, unless there is a desire to adjust the pleasant weight of the steering wheel.

How to set up:
First, set up all other effects for comfortable control. Then add the Damping value in the game, in small portions, depending on your taste. At the same time, keeping in mind that the appearing heaviness makes the steering wheel more pleasant, adds weight to the car, but steals information, cutting off, swallowing other effects. Adding it is a compromise.
According to my observations, up to about 20, it creates a heaviness that is pleasant to the hands, and does not harm the information component. At a value of 35, the damping is already excessive, it interferes with counter-steering, and already absorbs some of the effects. For some cars you can set values ​​from 5 to 20.

Minimum Force
A parameter that allows you to make the center of the steering wheel more rigid, at the cost of cutting off some of the effects.
High values ​​of the parameter create rigid, even knocking, boundaries of the central zone of the steering wheel, while a clear, fixed center, like a spring, is still not possible, and the effects are “cut” greatly. The steering wheel becomes less informative, the feedback is sharp, hard knocks appear already at the parameter value of 15. The steering wheel begins to vibrate and knock on its own even when the car is standing. Further increase in the parameter value only makes it worse. According to my feelings - 5 optimal value for G25.
Some sim racers rely on a utility to determine the minforce value of the iRacing simulator, but the resulting numbers, around 15, are unacceptable, at least with the settings I recommend.

Kerb Effect - The effect itself does not work. Only in conjunction with Gain enabled. The effect manifests itself on kerbs, lawns\sidesides, paving stones, gutters, etc. That is, it processes all coatings outside the road surface and associated with it.
At the same time, it reacts to the type of surface, and not to its shape. With large values ​​of the parameter, it produces a strong knock, so only small values ​​should be used. With values ​​in the region of 20-30, on lawns, roadsides, gravel traps, it is almost unnoticeable, giving only a slight vibration. On paving stones and similar surfaces, there is a dense, clearly visible vibration. No knocking. On kerbs, you get quite tolerable shocks, depending on the speed, turning either into vibration or into individual oscillations.

You shouldn’t give up the effect, because without it, you won’t feel the difference in the surfaces, and some of the kerbs will simply merge with the track (flat, drawn kerbs will not be processed). The presence of at least minimal values ​​of the Kerb Effect parameter provides information about when the car’s wheels hit a surface other than the road surface, and when they left it.

At the same time, you should definitely keep in mind the following point: Kerb Effect works only with the type of surface, and at small values ​​it does not create any unpleasant knocks, rattles or vibrations. The main feedback parameter, Gain, itself creates the steering response on those kerbs that are made three-dimensional (3D mesh, not just a texture on a flat polygon). The reaction of the main effect is Gain, on some kerbs, and with the Kerb Effect completely disabled, it produces knocking, crackling and other troubles. So, turning on the Kerb Effect even smoothes out these knocks a little, due to the fact that the reaction of different densities from the Kerb Effect and Gain is summed up, some knocks are “swallowed”. That is, with small values ​​of Kerb Effect, this is an effect that is absolutely useful, both informationally and tactilely. Knocks and impacts on volumetric kerbs, the joints of the canvas and the side of the road, are caused not by it, but by the main FFB, and turning off the Kerb Effect does not get rid of this.

Road Effect - The effect itself does not work. Only together with Gain. Adds vibration and shock from the coating while driving. And at the same time remove knocks, rattling and other unpleasant effects.
It reacts to the surface, not the shape, and not only to the road surface, but also to kerbs, as well as lawns.
At maximum values, it knocks and vibrates so that everything on the table also begins to ring... You can tolerate it somewhere up to 35-45, and even then there is a slight knock in some places. At low values, 15-20 does not create any problems at all, but it fills the steering wheel a little with surface feel. They are very unobtrusive, and sometimes not even noticeable, but nevertheless they complement the overall “picture” of feedback.
Adds a surface feel to the kerbs. The main effect Gain works out the shape (height), Kerb Effect ribs the surface, and Road Effect adds roughness to the kerb. This can be felt well, for example, in the Hohenrain (the chicane before the last corner, you get to it in hot-lap mode before the start of the lap) of the Nordschleife.
The Road Effect also makes you feel the difference in the quality of coatings. Unfortunately, this is not felt at most joints of the racing surface. But there are still places where the joints are noticeable. For example, on the same Nordschleife 24 hours, when leaving the last turn to the finish line of the GP section.

Game settings (continued)

Slip Effect - Gives vibration when wheels slip and any wheel slips.
If you set large values, clearly visible vibration effects appear when any tire slips. Even when changing gears on powerful cars. However, wheel slip at the start turns into outright rattling and knocking. Reducing the values ​​to 9-10 leaves only vibration when slipping, but the effect of micro-slipping during gear changes disappears. The effect remains barely noticeable during drifting and skidding.
The effect could be useful if it were worked out. But this is a rough vibration, bordering on a knock, that feels unrelated to the actual sliding of the tire. Although it (seems) increases - it decreases, depending on the sliding speed, but does not change the amplitude, and has an unpleasant, uninformative character. Therefore, in my opinion, it should be turned off, or only the smallest values ​​should be used, around 3-9. Purely to indicate the effect, as unobtrusively as possible.

Axis settings

The parameters described below are required for tuning steering wheels with a small turning radius, and are not related to feedback. In the case of G25\27, it makes no sense to touch them. Nevertheless, I will go through them in general terms.

Gamma - Changes the linearity of the steering axis. The higher the value, the less effective the steering is in the near-neutral zone, and the sharper the steering is in extreme positions.

Filter - I don’t understand what this parameter does. Up to 0.99 I didn’t notice any difference, but at 1 the steering wheel doesn’t work at all. Perhaps it is possible to understand its operation only with active control, a steering wheel with a small turning radius. But in the absence of one, I did not appreciate the opportunity.

Speed ​​Sensetivity - Sensitivity of the steering axis depending on the speed of movement. The higher the parameter value, the greater the angle you need to turn the steering wheel, the lower the speed at which this dependence appears. So, at maximum values, the steering wheel needs to be turned with interceptions, immediately after starting, and at minimum values, the steering costs gradually increase with increasing speed.

Brake Gamma - Adjustment of the non-linearity of the brake pedal. The default value is 2.40, which makes the axis non-linear. With this value, at the beginning of the pedal stroke, the sensitivity is low, and at the end, on the contrary, it is high. But not clearly expressed. In general, this is a matter of taste and the characteristics of the pedals. But if possible, you should not get used to various kinds of disproportionate dosing. On the G25, the pedals are quite accurate, so I prefer linear travel - I set it to 1, which allows you to dose the proportions of the virtual brake pedal travel evenly.

Individual FFB settings in the car setup (done in the garage already on the track)
In the car settings there are also two feedback parameters that are applied individually to each car and to each track.
This is Force Feedback%
and FF Damping %
Both parameters default to 100%
Actually this is a percentage of the total FFB force and the damper effect. They decrease or increase these parameters accordingly.
It is recommended to touch them only if the basic settings described above give too weak or too strong FFB for a particular car. Moreover, they allow you to specify changes for a specific setup or route.

Some users advise setting the total FFB Gain value to 100, and then adjust the value in the car settings.
This approach has the right to exist, but it is definitely less convenient. Simply because for most cars, the basic FFB settings are fine, and individual settings will rarely need to be touched. And by setting Gain to 100, we will get excess force, knocking and rattling on all machines, and each of them will have to be adjusted individually, on each track. It is not comfortable.

In Assetto Corsa, the cars' feedback is different. For some, the steering wheel itself is tighter, for others less so. Depending on the FFB settings this can be very pronounced. For example, the Ferrari 312T feels great with a parameter of 60, but 70 is already too much for it - the effects are cut off. And some cars, like the Sauber C9, on the contrary, have a very light steering wheel. To compensate for this moment, it is worth using individual FFB settings in the car setup.
Thus, I recommend touching these parameters only for individual cars, in those rare cases when it is necessary, increasing or decreasing the values ​​by 10-20%.


The material offers an analysis of feedback settings in Assetto Corsa and comments to them. It also offers settings options, using the steering wheel as an example. Logitech G25/27.

After the release of update 1.1, changes were made to the material. They are insignificant, but nevertheless expand the material. For the convenience of those who have already read the article, changes and additions are in italics.

Setting up steering wheel driver settings

Recommendations appearing online from supposed developers, where it is proposed to set all parameters to 100, have not shown themselves in any way. For this reason, we will configure it differently, based on the actual operation of the FFB.

Spring Effect Strength- Enabling this parameter does not in any way affect the feedback in the game. You can put at least 0, at least 150.

Damper Effect Strength- The parameter is used by the game FFB and can be configured in the game menu with the Damping value. It is optimal to set it to 100, and already in the game, make adjustments if necessary.

Enable Centering Spring in Force Feedback Games- This effect is not tied to the game FFB, and is only needed to provide a spring, returning the steering wheel to neutral, as if it were an antediluvian steering wheel loaded with rubber bands. Of course, it is not used by anyone in modern games and simulators. However, sometimes, its small values ​​are useful to create a tighter center of the steering wheel. Its small values ​​(10-17) do not yet create a real spring, do not force the steering wheel to return to the center, but already provide slight resistance when the steering wheel is deflected, which in some games, where the steering wheel is simply completely empty in the center, creates the illusion of seamless feedback . In AC, due to the fact that FFB almost always applies some kind of steering input, this makes little sense. However, for those who like the most “dense” center, you can add a little more “density” to it.

So 10 is the value at which the effect begins to return the steering wheel to neutral in principle (with Overal Effect Strength – 101 and other FFB effects, including the main one, are completely disabled). With a value of 9, in a car in conditions where there is no general FFB, the steering wheel does not return to neutral at all - apparently the own weight of the shaft and steering wheel resists.

When FFB is turned on in the game, value 17 is the maximum at which the steering wheel does not return to neutral (in this case it is the FFB that resists).
Increasing the parameter even higher begins to interfere with the control, and when the car is stationary, the steering wheel itself returns to the central position.

Total - inclusion of values ​​10-17 adds a little “density” to the center of the steering wheel, with minimal losses for the information content of the FFB.

Also, there is an opinion that simply turning on the Enable Centering Spring in Force Feedback Games checkbox, with the parameter value set to zero, has a positive effect on the density of the center of the steering wheel. But this is not obvious in AC.

Filter- According to many users, this is a kind of software filter designed to smooth out sharp shocks and vibrations of the steering wheel.
But in reality, it simply increases the amplitude of the steering wheel swing when driving. From light jolts back and forth, with minimal or zero value, to a very specific rocking of the car. At large values, the steering wheel gently shifts from left to right, and if you release it while moving in a straight line, the car will turn itself either left or right. Linked only to the main parameter Gain, and on the effects Kerb Effect And Road Effect And Slip Effect has no effect.

Damping- Viscosity. Dampers the steering wheel. Creates a feeling of car weight. The steering wheel becomes harder to turn, in both directions. Which negatively affects the time it takes to shift the steering wheel during counter-steering. Does not depend on other effects. But it influences all other effects the more strongly, the greater its magnitude - it absorbs them.
Works only when the option is enabled Damping Effect Strength V .
Values Damping Effect Strength in your profile, and Damping in the game they reinforce each other. This means that the maximum strength of the effect can be achieved with a maximum value of 150 in the profile, and a maximum value of 99 in the game. But such values ​​are very redundant, so it makes sense to set it to 100 in the profile, and then adjust it in the game to suit your feelings. With large damping values ​​and small Gain values, the astringent effect of the parameter is so high that the steering wheel will not tend to the neutral position at all - turn it, release it, and it will remain in that position, even with the car moving.

That is, this effect does not carry any informational or useful load. Therefore, it can be disabled either in the profile or in the game, unless there is a desire to adjust the pleasant weight of the steering wheel.

How to set up:
First, set up all other effects for comfortable control. Then add the Damping value in the game, in small portions, depending on your taste. At the same time, keeping in mind that the appearing heaviness makes the steering wheel more pleasant, adds weight to the car, but steals information, cutting off, swallowing other effects. Adding it is a compromise.
According to my observations, up to about 20, it creates a heaviness that is pleasant to the hands, and does not harm the information component. At a value of 35, the damping is already excessive, it interferes with counter-steering, and already absorbs some of the effects. For some cars you can set values ​​from 5 to 20.

Minimum Force
A parameter that allows you to make the center of the steering wheel more rigid, at the cost of cutting off some of the effects.
High values ​​of the parameter create rigid, even knocking, boundaries of the central zone of the steering wheel, while a clear, fixed center, like a spring, is still not possible, and the effects are “cut” greatly. The steering wheel becomes less informative, the feedback is sharp, hard knocks appear already at the parameter value of 15. The steering wheel begins to vibrate and knock on its own even when the car is standing. Further increase in the parameter value only makes it worse. In my opinion, 5 is the optimal value for the G25.

Some sim racers rely on a utility to determine the minforce value of the iRacing simulator, but the resulting numbers, around 15, are unacceptable, at least with the settings I recommend.

Kerb Effect- The effect itself does not work. Only in conjunction with included Gain. The effect manifests itself on kerbs, lawns\sidesides, paving stones, gutters, etc. That is, it processes all coatings outside the road surface and associated with it.
At the same time, it reacts to the type of surface, and not to its shape. With large values ​​of the parameter, it produces a strong knock, so only small values ​​should be used. With values ​​in the region of 20-30, on lawns, roadsides, gravel traps, it is almost unnoticeable, giving only a slight vibration. On paving stones and similar surfaces, there is a dense, clearly visible vibration. No knocking. On kerbs, you get quite tolerable shocks, depending on the speed, turning either into vibration or into individual oscillations.

You shouldn’t give up the effect, because without it, you won’t feel the difference in the surfaces, and some of the kerbs will simply merge with the track (flat, drawn kerbs will not be processed). The presence of at least minimal values ​​of the Kerb Effect parameter provides information about when the car’s wheels hit a surface other than the road surface, and when they left it.

In this case, be sure to keep in mind the following point: Kerb Effect It works only on the type of surface, and at small values ​​it does not create any unpleasant knocks, rattles or vibrations. The main feedback parameter, Gain, itself creates the steering response on those kerbs that are made three-dimensional (3D mesh, not just a texture on a flat polygon). The reaction of the main effect is Gain, on some kerbs, and with the Kerb Effect completely disabled, it produces knocking, crackling and other troubles. So, turning on the Kerb Effect even smoothes out these knocks a little, due to the fact that the reaction of different densities from the Kerb Effect and Gain is summed up, some knocks are “swallowed”. That is, with small values ​​of Kerb Effect, this is an effect that is absolutely useful, both informationally and tactilely. Knocks and impacts on volumetric kerbs, the joints of the road surface and the roadside, are caused not by it, but by the main FFB, and disabling Kerb Effect does not get rid of this.

Road Effect- The effect itself does not work. Only together with Gain. Adds vibration and shock from the coating while driving. And at the same time remove knocks, rattling and other unpleasant effects.

It reacts to the surface, not to the shape, and not only to the road surface, but also to kerbs, as well as lawns. At maximum values, it knocks and vibrates so that everything on the table also begins to ring... You can tolerate it somewhere up to 35-45, and even then there is a slight knock in some places. At low values, 15-20 does not create any problems at all, but it fills the steering wheel a little with surface feel. They are very unobtrusive, and sometimes not even noticeable, but nevertheless they complement the overall “picture” of feedback.

Adds a surface feel to the kerbs. The main effect Gain works out the shape (height), Kerb Effect ribs the surface, and Road Effect adds roughness to the kerb. This can be felt well, for example, in the Hohenrain (the chicane before the last corner, you get to it in hot-lap mode before the start of the lap) of the Nordschleife.

The Road Effect also makes you feel the difference in the quality of coatings. Unfortunately, this is not felt at most joints of the racing surface. But there are still places where the joints are noticeable. For example, on the same Nordschleife 24 hours, when leaving the last turn to the finish line of the GP section.

Slip Effect- Gives vibration when wheels slip and slip of any wheel.

If you set large values, clearly visible vibration effects appear when any tire slips. Even when changing gears on powerful cars. However, wheel slip at the start turns into outright rattling and knocking. Reducing the values ​​to 9-10 leaves only vibration when slipping, but the effect of micro-slipping during gear changes disappears. The effect remains barely noticeable during drifting and skidding.

The effect could be useful if it were worked out. But this is a rough vibration, bordering on a knock, that feels unrelated to the actual sliding of the tire. Although it (seems) increases - it decreases, depending on the sliding speed, but does not change the amplitude, and has an unpleasant, uninformative character. Therefore, in my opinion, it should be turned off, or only the smallest values ​​should be used, around 3-9. Purely to indicate the effect, as unobtrusively as possible.

Axis settings

The parameters described below are required for tuning steering wheels with a small turning radius, and are not related to feedback. In the case of G25\27, it makes no sense to touch them. Nevertheless, I will go through them in general terms.

Gamma- Changes the linearity of the steering axis. The higher the value, the less effective the steering is in the near-neutral zone, and the sharper the steering is in extreme positions.

Filter- I don’t understand what this parameter does. Up to 0.99 I didn’t notice any difference, but at 1 the steering wheel doesn’t work at all. Perhaps it is possible to understand its operation only with active control, a steering wheel with a small turning radius. But in the absence of one, I did not appreciate the opportunity.

Speed ​​Sensitivity- Sensitivity of the steering axis depending on the speed of movement. The higher the parameter value, the greater the angle you need to turn the steering wheel, the lower the speed at which this dependence appears. So, at maximum values, the steering wheel needs to be turned with interceptions, immediately after starting, and at minimum values, the steering costs gradually increase with increasing speed.

Brake Gamma- Adjustment of nonlinearity of the brake pedal. The default value is 2.40, which makes the axis non-linear. With this value, at the beginning of the pedal stroke, the sensitivity is low, and at the end, on the contrary, it is high. But not clearly expressed. In general, this is a matter of taste and the characteristics of the pedals. But if possible, you should not get used to various kinds of disproportionate dosing. On the G25, the pedals are quite accurate, so I prefer linear travel - I set it to 1, which allows you to dose the proportions of the virtual brake pedal travel evenly.

Individual FFB settings in the car setup(done in the garage already on the track)

In the car settings there are also two feedback parameters that are applied individually to each car and to each track. This Force Feedback% And FF Damping %. Both parameters default to 100%. Actually this is a percentage of the total FFB force and the damper effect. They decrease or increase these parameters accordingly. It is recommended to touch them only if the basic settings described above give too weak or too strong FFB for a particular car. Moreover, they allow you to specify changes for a specific setup or route.

Some users advise setting the total strength to FFB Gain- 100, and in the car settings you can already adjust the value. This approach has the right to exist, but it is definitely less convenient. Simply because for most cars, the basic FFB settings are fine, and individual settings will rarely need to be touched. And having exposed Gain - 100, we will get excess force, knocking and rattling on all cars, and each of them will have to be tuned individually, on each track. It is not comfortable.

IN Assetto Corsa, the feedback of cars is different. For some, the steering wheel itself is tighter, for others less so. Depending on the FFB settings this can be very pronounced. For example Ferrari 312T it feels great with a parameter of 60, but 70 is already too much for it - the effects are cut off. And some cars, like the Sauber C9, on the contrary, have a very light steering wheel. To compensate for this moment, it is worth using individual FFB settings in the car setup. Thus, I recommend touching these parameters only for individual cars, in those rare cases when it is necessary, increasing or decreasing the values ​​by 10-20%.

Example settings

Changed after update 1.1
I carried out tests on most cars, on the Nurburgring, Spa, Imola tracks, both for general feedback and for the reaction of curves, shoulders, etc. The first two examples performed well everywhere. The third option (heavy) is suitable for some cars, not for others, and with a high damper, unfortunately, only changing the total force cannot make a good feedback balance. Therefore, if you like a heavy steering wheel, and this set, on some cars you need to configure it individually.

Soft comfort - Compromise balanced option


Soft center. All effects are present, but unobtrusively, without rattling. Works smoothly and accurately. If there is a knock somewhere, then this is the main effect, and there is no escape from it.

Profile
Overal Effect Strength -101
Spring Effect Strength -0
Damper Effect Strength -100

Game Settings
Gain – 60
Filter - 20
Damping - 5
Minimum Force - 5
Kerb Effect - 20
Road Effect –20
Slip Effect - 9

Maximum information content


Qualifying option. With this set you can work for results. Soft center. Effects that do not carry information are disabled.

Profile
Overal Effect Strength -101
Spring Effect Strength -0
Damper Effect Strength -100
Enable Centering Spring in Force Feedback Games – 0 (on)

Game Settings
Gain – 60
Filter - 0
Damping - 0
Minimum Force - 5
Kerb Effect - 20
Road Effect –0
Slip Effect – 9

Hard


An option for real men. Like vodka with beer :) Pronounced effects, but without rattling. Heavy steering. Some of the effects are cut, but does this bother the harsh Chelyabinsk men? The set is not for records, but for hard work on the track.

Profile
Overal Effect Strength -90
Spring Effect Strength -0
Damper Effect Strength -100
Enable Centering Spring in Force Feedback Games – 9 (on) (just in case)

Game Settings
Gain – 70
Filter - 90
Damping - 35
Minimum Force - 9
Kerb Effect - 35
Road Effect –35
Slip Effect - 9

I would especially like to say to beginners, those who have just purchased a steering wheel with feedback and strive to make the steering wheel as tight as possible to achieve greater realism:
A tight steering wheel, no matter how realistic it may seem at first, is just as harmful. It deprives you of connection with the car, overloads the steering motors, and interferes with quick reactions.
A tight, especially heavily damped steering wheel will not allow you to achieve maximum results.

Happy racing!
Sincerely,
Alexei.



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