How to find out which country a coin is from. Distinctive signs of the coin's authenticity. Definition of Asian coins

Due to the increasing interest in numismatics in the world, the number of counterfeit coins is also increasing exponentially. This is especially true for rare, ancient, expensive coins made of precious metals, but rare coin defects are also counterfeited.

Experienced numismatists say that after 2 years of active interest in numismatics, a collector, willy-nilly, begins to distinguish original coins from fakes. What might a novice numismatist need to determine the authenticity of coins and, in general, how to determine for himself whether it is a real rarity or a fake?

Authenticity Tools

It is very advisable for a beginning numismatist to have the following tools in his arsenal:

• Detailed catalog of coins with a full description of the specimens of interest to the collector and their high-quality color photographs. The catalog contains not only a description of the obverse and reverse, but also physical and chemical characteristics, such as the alloy of the coin, its weight, etc.
• Electronic balance necessary to determine the exact weight of the specimen under study and compare it with the weight indicated in the catalogue. There are known cases when coins made of gold and platinum were sawed in half and part of the precious metal was taken out from the middle. Then the cavity was filled with another metal or alloy and the two parts were connected so that it was simply impossible to notice the manipulations with the naked eye. But electronic scales always showed the difference between the catalog weight and the actual weight.
• Magnifying glass will help you study all the small details of the specimen being studied with its description and photograph in the catalog.
• Spectrometer. Such a device is extremely necessary when working with rare and expensive coins - the most counterfeited ones, by the way. It helps to determine the presence of impurities in the metal, thereby identifying the fake.

Initial assessment of coin authenticity

If you do not have the necessary tools at the time of purchase, and the coin seems very interesting from a collecting point of view, try to determine its authenticity in the following ways:

Sound

If you throw a coin on a flat, hard surface, the original copy will make a ringing, clear sound, while a counterfeit made from counterfeit metal will hit with a dull sound, unusual for coin alloys. By the way, the hydrostatic weighing method allows you to determine the composition of coins made of two-component alloys.

Edge

Its edge can tell a lot about a coin, and it’s worth taking a closer look. The presence of suspicious grooves, horizontal seams, often carefully disguised, as well as a smooth, blunt edge indicate the dubious quality of the coin. Numismatists are often interested in such coin defects as “stamp rotation,” which counterfeiters readily counterfeit. And if the seller refuses to take a copy out of the capsule so that you can carefully examine the edge, it’s worth considering whether this money is really genuine.

Reverse and obverse

Examine the details of the images on the reverse and obverse - fake copies often have small details missing or blurred, and there may also be small bubbles that are invisible without a magnifying glass.

Color and shine

The shine and color of the metal can also tell a lot about the money. Too bright a shine for a fairly old coin is a sign of excessive polishing. An artificial patina may be present, but only experts can determine its authenticity.

Visible damage

Chips, abrasions, and damage to the edge can tell about the composition of the metal from which the coin is made. Sometimes it is clearly visible that the coin is only coated with noble metal, and there is some inexpensive alloy inside. Of course, there are such coin defects as “metal mix-ups”, when copper coins, for example, were minted from brass by mistake, but this happened very rarely, possible defects are also recorded and described in catalogs, so always keep reference books at hand.

Bead condition

Pay attention to the condition of the collar. If it is not clearly defined, seems erased or too streamlined, this may be a sign that the coin was not minted, but simply cast.

Finalization of details

Counterfeiters also commit mechanical modifications to parts of the obverse or reverse. This is especially true for coins with many varieties, some of which are rarities. The process usually involves under-engraving, sawing off signs, soldering letters, etc.

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While digging, we come across different coins: by denomination, material, size and condition. The better the preservation, the more pleasant the sensation of the recovered find. Yes, and you can sell it for much more at an auction, and spend the money on equipment or gasoline. Collectors and numismatists also look at the preservation of the coin they purchase. The higher he is, the more money he is willing to part with in order to get the desired coin for his collection.

At the moment, there are 7 safety categories: G, VG, F, VF, XF, UNC and Proof, but treasure hunters need only three of them - F, VF and XF, since the coin oxidizes in the ground and ends up there from circulation already with traces of walking. Preservation below F is already ardent poop, which you can’t even put in an album, and it’s a shame to throw it away. And the degree of preservation above XF mainly belongs to modern and Soviet anniversaries, in a bag condition, in capsules and holders, as well as minted with polished stamps.

F – good

In my opinion, the most frequently encountered coins. Especially small copper of the latest royal type. In such preservation, coins lie almost everywhere where people lived and worked in the old days. They don't look very good: worn out from long use, oxidized, scratched and beaten. But you can safely determine the denomination and year. If the coin is not worn out, but is mechanically damaged, it is also classified as F.

VF - very good

Also a frequently encountered save. We can say that coins in verified condition are found on par with fine. The coins found have a worn relief, and in particular small details of the design. It is difficult or impossible to see them. The field is damaged by scratches or small cavities. The bulk of the digging lots are exhibited in this state of preservation.

And here, within one degree of state, there is a gradation. You've probably noticed VF+ and VF-. What are these pros and cons? Due to the large number of coins on display in VF, it is customary to divide them into:

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• Better, but not up to XF (+);
• The condition is worse, but still better F (-).

XF - excellent

They are the least likely to be caught by a cop. There can be no more than 20 of them per season. And why? Not everywhere there is favorable soil that would ensure careful storage without oxidation - sandy, dry soils, clay. And in the fields there are fertilizers that eat up coins. But even there I managed to find coins in amazing condition.

The coins from the treasure are also mostly in XF condition, as they lay motionless in the vessel for hundreds of years and mostly without direct contact with the ground. They did not come into contact with aggressive substances. And if they are hidden in the wall of the house or in the attic, then their condition will be exactly the same in which they were hidden a long time ago. They will only become covered with a beautiful patina, which will raise the price of such a find.

With experience, any digger will easily determine the degree of preservation of the dug up coins. And even make an approximate assessment of them. I also recommend installing an application on your phone - a catalog or printing it out so that it is always nearby and tells you in more detail about the coins you find.

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Just by counting your change you may find extremely valuable modern coin. In fact, to increase your chances of success, you need to put in very little effort.

Here are a couple of tips to help you.

1) Study the list of modern rare coins.

In short, the list looks like this:

• 5 kopecks, 1999, SPMD - 250 thousand rubles
• 5 rubles, 1999, MMD - 450 thousand rubles
• 50 kopecks, 2001, MMD - 250 thousand rubles
• 1 ruble, 2001, MMD - 250 thousand rubles
• 2 rubles, 2001, MMD - 250 thousand rubles
• 5 kopecks, 2002, without sign - 8.5 thousand rubles
• 1 ruble, 2002, MMD and SPMD - 6 thousand rubles
• 2 rubles, 2002, MMD and SPMD - 8 thousand rubles
• 5 rubles, 2002, MMD and SPMD - 10 thousand rubles
• 1, 2, 5 rubles, 2003, MMD - 250 thousand rubles
• 1 ruble, 2003, SPMD - 20 thousand rubles
• 2 rubles, 2003, SPMD, - 15 thousand rubles
• 5 rubles, 2003, SPMD - 10 thousand rubles
• 5 kopecks, 2003, without sign - 1750 rubles
• 5 rubles, 2006, SPMD - 250 thousand rubles
• 10 rubles, 2010, “Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug” - 10 thousand rubles
• 10 rubles, 2010, “Chechen Republic” - 5.5 thousand rubles
• 10 rubles, 2010, “Perm region” - 3 thousand rubles
• 1 and 5 kopecks 2011, SPMD - 200 thousand rubles
• 50 kopecks, 1, 2, 5 rubles 2011, SPMD - 150 thousand rubles
• 10, 50 kopecks, 1, 2, 5 rubles 2012, SPMD - 250 thousand rubles
• 1,5,10,50 kopecks and 1, 2, 5 rubles 2014 and 2015 SPMD - 200 thousand rubles

You can read about the top 5 most expensive small change coins in modern Russia

2) Carry a list with you.

Enter the list of rare coins into your phone or print it out on paper and put it in your wallet.
In addition to the coins mentioned in the list, you can add variations of coins that were “defective” in production; they are also quite expensive. This will help you find rare coins faster. Over time, you may learn the list by heart. Stay tuned for list updates on numismatic sites. Up-to-date information is usually contained

3) Develop a habit.

Just check your change every time you get it in your hands. It only takes a few seconds and the results can be stunning. Keep a special envelope or bag in your wallet in case you discover a rarity. Put coins there that have caused you doubts, so as not to accidentally give them away in the store. Well, if you don’t want to embarrass people, go through the change in your wallet and pockets in the evenings.

4) Carry a small magnifying glass with you.

There are some manufacturing errors, and the mint mark cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. A 5x magnification is usually enough. You can attach the magnifying glass as a keychain.

5) Look for places.

In some stores (usually small ones) they most often sell in small change. They also sell change in kiosks, in Rospechat, in mini-pavilions, and in markets. Visit such places more often. Or change banknotes on buses with conductors.

6) Use cash more often.

Paying by card is fine, but if you are going to find a rare coin, turn the numbers on the plastic into hard cash. Every coin that passes through your hands is like a chance to win the lottery. Don't deprive yourself of the opportunity to win.

Many beginners in numismatics are somewhat skeptical about mint definition who issued this coin. And let’s say this is wrong for the future collector of rare coins. After all, knowing the mint sometimes helps determine the market value of a rarity that has fallen into your hands. The same denomination, issued by different mints, can vary in price several times.

So how to determine the mint on Russian coins. First you need to know that in modern Russia there are two mints: Moscow and St. Petersburg. And on modern coins their names are minted in the form of monograms: MMD and SPMD. On penny coins, the symbol appears on the reverse in the form of the letters M and S-P. Sometimes some coins do not have the court designation. And as a result of such a marriage, the value of the coin increases significantly. Also, a novice collector should not be alarmed by the fact that the Moscow Mint stamp on the coins looks somewhat larger than the St. Petersburg mint stamp. It is so indeed.

To identify the mint, a numismatist may need a magnifying glass. But if circumstances permit, you can use a camera or scanner. But the last two methods are more suitable for old or worn coins. So a magnifying glass is the main tool of a numismatist.

But even with a magnifying glass it is not always easy to find mint emblems on a coin. Therefore, we immediately suggest that on 10 ruble coins mint mark can be found on the obverse of the coin under its denomination. This is clearly illustrated in the photo below.

And penny coins will delight the collector with the letters M or S-P under the front hooves of the horse.

On coins of the early nineties, mints are indicated on the obverse of the coin in the form of the letters M (Moscow) or L (Leningrad).

Also, the mint can be identified by the edge (edge) of the coin - on MMD coins, the inscriptions have a more rounded shape than on SPMD coins.

For regular coins that are in circulation, the mint emblems are located on the reverse of the coin under the eagle's paw on the right side. The mint monograms are standard, so you can easily distinguish them.

Here. Now you know how to identify the mint on a coin and you will be able to arrange all your coins not only in order, but also differentiate between mints, like a real professional numismatist.

If a coin collector finds himself in front of a coin unknown to him, the first thing he does is examine it. Numismatic examination of a coin involves finding out where and when it was minted, at which mint, its denomination, and, if possible, which craftsman made it. To determine all this data, various methods are used, suggesting how to identify a coin.

Definition of a coin

The easiest way to identify a coin is to search for its image or description in the literature. It can be very difficult for inexperienced numismatists to do this; they can spend a lot of time searching without getting anything. If a coin is difficult to identify, then it will be difficult for experienced numismatists.

To limit your search, you need to determine the weight, metal and size of the coin you receive. For example, if a coin is made of gold and its weight is about 3.5 g, then it is most likely a ducat or florin minted no earlier than the mid-13th century. The silver coins, weighing about 4 grams, are pennies that were minted during the same period. Thus, knowing the size, weight and metal of the coin, you can significantly narrow your search and limit it to a few books.

It is also important to pay attention to the features of the coinage. For example, bracteates are single-sided coins that were minted only during a certain period and in certain countries.

Mint

It is important for novice numismatists to understand how to identify the mint of a coin to speed up the process of identifying it. First, you need to find the minting date on the coin, as this will help narrow down the range of mints that operated during that period. Usually near the date or under the denomination of the coin, less often - on the other side of the coin you can see the emblem of the mint or the initials of the master, if it is old enough.

If the coin has neither a date, nor an emblem, nor the initials of the master, it is very difficult to determine the mint without sufficient experience in numismatics.

Authenticity of the coin

An equally important question is how to determine the authenticity of a coin.

• Since minting coins is quite difficult, counterfeiters usually do not have this technology. They make coins by simply casting metal, so the fine details of the coinage are usually not very clear. Blurring of small details is the first sign of a counterfeit coin.
• Coins of the 18th century are characterized by lamination of the metal due to corrosion. It is almost impossible to counterfeit, so a coin of this age without signs of foliation should arouse suspicion.
• An equally important criterion for authenticity is the weight of the coin.

To more accurately determine the authenticity of a coin, it is best to contact professionals, as they have special equipment that allows them to find out the necessary details.

Coin value

Every numismatist wants to know how to determine the value of a coin. The easiest way to do this is to search for the coin in the appropriate numismatist catalogs. There is an approximate price for each type of coin. You need to understand that the price will be influenced by the safety of the coin: the better it is, the higher the price.

The market price usually differs significantly from the list price as it is affected by demand, precious metal prices, coin quality, and much more. You can most accurately determine the price of a coin if you find an absolutely similar one that was sold and find out its price.