Collecting watches. Everything a beginner needs to know about collecting pocket watches. Watches for different occasions
How to start collecting watches if you have never done it?
First, you need to acquire some basic knowledge in this area. All collectors make mistakes at first, and that's okay. It doesn’t matter at all what your first watch will be, the main rule here is to buy what you like. Gradually, model by model, the sample will narrow down. Over time, you will have your own base of collectors and dealers. Specialized forums and resources where collectors share their knowledge will also help you. Study the brochures of watch companies - we, for example, publish them for each collection, they are all available on the Internet.
Let's say I chose a specific model and bought it. What's next? Should I look for watches from the same line or choose others?
It's just a matter of taste. What attracts you specifically? Motorcycle racing and racing themes? Then you can focus on special collections dedicated to racing, for example, Monaco or Silverstone. Among them there are also many vintage watches that once belonged to famous racing drivers. Or maybe you are more interested in the history of a particular brand - then you can start collecting a collection of a certain year of manufacture. Nowadays, models from the 1980s and 1940s are very popular, the design of which has a wartime imprint. There are much fewer of the latter, plus they have been less frequently documented, so working with them is both very exciting and very difficult. Your budget also matters and how much you are willing to invest in a watch, with models from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s costing more than wartime models.
There is a stereotype that collectors are very rich people and that without an impressive fortune there is no point in collecting. Is this really true?
No, that's not true. You don't have to be a multi-billionaire. Expensive lots at auctions at Philipps and other auction houses are just the tip of the iceberg. We have a lot of clients of different incomes, and the main core consists of ordinary people who buy watches on eBay or Amazon. Also, don’t forget that until the 1960s, TAG Heuer was not a luxury brand - to build your watch collection you don’t have to spend all your savings, the main thing is to know when to stop and not lose common sense. Of course, you can invest in very expensive vintage pieces: say, Steve McQueen's Monaco watch, which he wore in the movie Le Mans, or some gold watch that belonged to a famous racing driver. Of course, this is top class and worth the money. But the main market is not built on this.
Is there any way to predict which time period watches will become popular in the future?
I believe that collecting only for money is wrong. After all, the essence of collecting is to acquire watches that you like first and foremost. You will amass a priceless collection if you put meaning and personal touch into things. Therefore, I recommend buying for the soul, and not for commercial purposes.
Are there any additional factors other than the year of manufacture that influence the cost of a watch?
Of course. The value will also depend on previous owners: it stands to reason that a McQueen-owned watch will be worth more than your neighbor's - although I don't know who your neighbor is (laughs). The materials from which the watch is made also affect the cost. By the way, interesting fact, but steel watches are often more expensive than gold watches - the point is that steel is better for making a case. Also, the cost depends on the complexity of the watch movements - it is clear that assembly requires skilled craftsmanship.
What is the current price range on the vintage watch market?
Quite wide. The scene for vintage stopwatches starts at 1,000 Swiss francs (about $1,010). There is no upper limit: McQueen's gold watch went for more than $800,000. If similar offers appear on the market, it is difficult to say how much they will cost. For example, we have several products that are priced at amounts with five and six zeros.
Are there a lot of fakes on the vintage watch market?
Let's say that for every thousand original watches there are about 10 fakes - this is when the case, the hands, and the clock mechanism are completely faked. Much more often I come across “custom assembled” watches, where they are assembled from parts from different time periods. That is, they did not come in one set. Plus, any watch requires regular inspection and repair. During service work, the hands, dial, case, and mechanism parts are changed, so it is not so easy to say that a particular watch is less authentic.
How can a non-specialist recognize vintage by eye?
Unfortunately, I can’t give any hints: to determine the vintage, you really need to have a certain education. By the way, many of our young customers prefer to buy reissued models of vintage watches. This makes life much easier if something happens to your vintage watch - for example, you break it. If you have a reissued watch, then you can go to any watch repair shop, where you will be immediately received and served. With vintage watches, things are a little more complicated, because only a special watchmaker can work on them.
How to properly care for a vintage watch?
You need to constantly start them, otherwise the lubricating oil inside the mechanism will dry out, and because of this, the parts will begin to wear out. Also, the watch must be stored in a dry place - high humidity has a very negative effect on its operation. If the watch case is covered with patina, then it should be stored away from ultraviolet radiation and not left in direct sunlight. In principle, this is enough, provided that once every four years you show your watch to a specialist.
I can’t name any specific cases. But many of our collectors purchased their first watch 20 years ago, when their price was much lower. Therefore, if they maintained the watch in good condition, today it costs two or three times more. So you could say they made good money.
Collecting watches is not as easy as it seems at first glance. To do this, it is not enough to simply buy all the models that you like. And the most difficult thing in this matter is to start. You need to have a clear idea of what you want your collection to be and what you need it for. Before purchasing your first watch, you need to think through many nuances, including where and how you will buy it and how much you are willing to spend.
To ensure you don't give up on your own collection when you hit the first hurdle, we asked for help from some of the experts on the subject: British GQ deputy editor Bill Prince, watch columnist Robin Sweetinbank, and GQ freelance editor Simon de Burton.
1. Do your research
“This needs to be said, although this fact seems obvious to many. Buying a watch is as difficult as buying good wine or a vintage car. There is no clearly developed and one hundred percent reliable system in this matter. There is always a risk of encountering scammers and buying a fake. So you need to be confident in the supplier from whom you purchase the watch, and not hope that you will be able to make a successful deal with some reseller. This is a utopia,” advises Bill Prince.
2. Decide on a budget
“The amount you are willing to spend on a watch plays an important role. I would not recommend buying a very expensive watch right away. After all, you don’t want to grab your head and think “why did I buy them?” And besides, price should not be a factor in determining whether you like a watch or not,” Simon de Burton.
3. Stick to the classics
“This is especially important if you decide to spend a fortune on a watch. You should not choose too bold a body design or bright colors. It is better to trust generally recognized brands with a long history, which have excellent classic models. For example, Rolex Oyster Perpetual, TAG Heuer Carrera or Omega Speedmaster. But if you are uncompromising in your desire to choose something unusual, take a closer look at the limited collections of these brands,” - Robin Sweetinbank.
“The obvious choice in this case is Rolex. This is the most reliable investment. They are not just the most popular watches in the world. Moreover, you can always resell them,” Simon de Burton.
4. Don't choose fancy styles
“You shouldn’t buy watches that are too flashy or strange. The TAG Heuer Autavia and Rolex Submariner models are popular due to their simple designs. By the end of the day, you'll get tired of looking at a fancy dial where you can hardly tell what time it is. In addition, the fashion for unusual models is short-lived, and their value is negligible compared to the classics,” Simon de Burton.
5. Be careful with vintage models
“Think again before purchasing a vintage watch. You must be 100 percent confident in the supplier you are purchasing them from. The risk of stumbling upon a fake is enormous, especially for the Cosmograph Daytona and Cosmograph Zenith models. You can lose a lot of money by contacting a scammer, or even the watch itself. After all, if they were stolen, they could be confiscated,” Simon de Burton.
6. Take your time
“Such a purchase must be considered. Don't rush yourself in search of the perfect watch. Sometimes this can take several years. But it’s even better, during this time your style and idea of the watch you need will be finally formed. In addition, if you want the same model throughout your search, you are done right choice" - Robin Sweetinbank.
7. Forget about Kickstarter-sponsored brands
“You shouldn’t buy watches from brands that are funded by Kickstarter, as these companies can go bankrupt and cease to exist at any time. Yes, there are famous and popular brands among them, but when it comes to buying a watch, reliability is more important,” - Simon de Burton.
8. Don't forget about companies from the quartz crisis
“Looking through old watch catalogs, you will often come across brands that you have never heard of. Such companies have become victims of the quartz crisis, despite a solid history. Unfortunately, many of them were never revived. But this does not mean that you do not need to take a closer look at them. For example, Universal makes amazing chronograph and calendar watches. And they are gaining popularity again,” Simon de Burton.
9. Find a reliable supplier
“If you make a purchase from any of the Swiss Bucherers, you can be sure of the quality of your watch. But for this you will have to pay a lot of money. So you might want to check out the independent brands at Page & Cooper. And high-quality vintage models are often offered at Fellowes and Watches of Knightsbridge auctions,” Simon de Burton.
10. Beware of eBay
“When you buy a watch on eBay, you can't even look at it before you pay. Therefore, you should not think about such transactions. And always remember the original packaging and original documents if you buy a watch from the previous owner,” Simon de Burton.
11. Take a friend with you
“If you are completely captivated by the idea of buying your first watch, then most likely you are ready to browse all the sites and fly halfway around the world for the sake of it. And in order not to go crazy and not get lost in the diversity, it is better to have a friend-accomplice nearby or at least an adviser who can facilitate the search at any time,” - Bill Prince.
12. Consider the parameters
“This is especially true for online shopping, because you can’t try on watches. I once bought an Omega Chronostop simply because I liked it, but I didn't notice that the dial diameter was very small and the strap was very thin. The end result was that the watch didn't look the way I wanted on my wide wrist." - Robin Sweetinbank
13. Choose what you like
“When buying a watch, it is better to take into account the previous tips. But ultimately you need to choose what you like. Most collections began with watches that made the wearer feel confident and comfortable.” – Robin Sweetinbank.
14. How do you want to be remembered?
“This may seem like a scary question, but how would you like to be remembered? I have my grandfather's Rolex and I hope to pass it and all the watches on to my children and someday my grandchildren. And I would really like it to remind them of what I was like. A watch can be called a reflection of a person’s personality and values. They are as important to us as rings are to women.” - Robin Sweetinbank.
Collector's Starter Kit
Now you know what to consider before purchasing the first watch for your collection. But to make sure you get it right, Simon de Burton has put together a few models to get you started.
1
A classic Rolex
“I mean Rolex GMT-Master or Submariner. These are versatile models that will always be popular, so you can resell them. However, be prepared that they will not be bought too quickly.”
GMT-Master II, Rolex, £7150 at rolex.com
2
Something from an independent brand
“For example, from F.P. Journe – Chronomètre Souverain or Centigraphe Chronograph. Any watch you like from one of these brands will be a very good buy.”
Chronomètre Souverain Caliber 1304, F.P. Journe, POA at fpjourne.com
3
Classic Omega
“And although this is a very popular brand, you can find some cool and not very popular models, in particular the Speedmaster or Seamaster. They also have a wonderful limited edition line released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Master collection. It’s definitely worth taking a closer look at.”
Seamaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer, Omega, £6000 at beaverbrooks.co.uk
4
Something from the Roger W Smith collection
“These watches are very expensive and very prestigious. The brand creates only ten watches a year, and their waiting list is six years in advance. So if you make a deposit and get in line now, your order will be ready in time for you to save up for it.”
Series 1, Roger W Smith, POA at rwsmithwatches.co.uk
5
Calatrava Patek Philippe
“If you decide to build your own watch collection, then someday you will definitely want to add this model to it.”
The art of watchmaking in any era was considered the prerogative of the best masters of their craft. The names of the famous workshops are known to almost everyone who orients themselves in time not only by the Sun and stars. Some examples, recognized as true masterpieces, are a brilliant and harmonious combination of precision mechanics and jewelry. The watches were designed and manufactured individually, to order, the craftsmen practiced exclusively manual, but at the same time amazingly precise assembly, guaranteeing durability.
If your " antique clock“are still running, and you prefer to find out the exact time on your smartphone, then you can think about how to quickly and profitably get rid of an absolutely chic and stylish, but, alas, completely useless and unnecessary thing for you. The purchase of antique watches is carried out after they have been checked by a master watchmaker; in this case, the seller does not bear any costs for checking them. Buying an antique watch is a kind of standard of success among collectors, but not even every experienced watchmaker can professionally evaluate an antique watch; only a master of antique mechanisms will do. Antique watches have always been in great demand at auctions and on the antiques market. Rare watches made in famous workshops last a very long time, and if handled with care, they count the time of several generations on Earth without significant wear and tear.
What watches are considered antique?
- Exclusive pieces made by hand. In this case, the popularity of the watch brand is also taken into account. You can sell rare watches that fall under this category quite quickly and profitably after.
- Antique watch in good condition. Not only is it assessed appearance and general safety, but also wear and tear of the mechanism, as well as accuracy. Antique watches dating from the 19th century and older can now be sold for a very high price, but only after more careful consideration. However, the approximate cost can also be determined from a photograph using.
- Collectible watches that made a revolution, or any other revolution in watchmaking that suits you. A watch is not a bicycle; it can be invented forever. Temples were rebuilt, counting minutes with the help of the Sun and Moon, mechanisms became more complex, and cuckoos evolved. Some of the surviving watches were the first in their category - these are the ones that are of real value to collectors. Nowadays you can sell collectible watches quickly and expensively, provided they are in good condition and authentic.
- Personalized, award and other iconic watches associated with any historical or cultural events, famous owners and watchmakers. Everything is clear here - and among the watches there are real “stars” who were participants in significant events, starred in famous films and adorned their wrists (not necessarily) famous people. It is interesting that such watches are hunted not only by professional collectors, but also by the most devoted fans of actors, musicians, football players and political figures, seeking to obtain a piece of their idol as their full property.
How and where to evaluate antique watches?
The topic of collecting always arouses interest, since almost each of us has a little, but still experience in this matter, collecting postcards, stamps, stickers, toys, etc. in childhood. Most people stop there, but there is another half for whom collecting becomes not just a hobby, but the meaning of life.
It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question: what, how and where to start collecting? It depends on many factors, the main one of which is what your soul is about. After all, you won’t be doing something you don’t like for long. Having determined this point for yourself, then everything depends on the purpose of collecting (writing a scientific paper, studying history, investing capital, for status or prestige, or just for the soul), personal qualities and financial capabilities.
Luch quartz watch with heart rate monitor (1971-1983) Price $130
Today, a fairly young, popular and also exciting activity is collecting wristwatches. There are a lot of watches in the world, it is impossible to embrace the immensity, so it is very important from the very beginning to decide on the era, period, theme, type, manufacturer. In addition, watch collecting differs from other types in the absence of uniform pricing principles. Many people rely on the annual price list published in the USA, Price Giude to Watch.
Each collector chooses his own way of collecting: one collects his collection on his own, someone joins a group or club and begins searching for information: reads books, magazines, visits museums, exhibitions and auctions.
The most affordable for collecting are watches from the USSR period; novice collectors can start with inexpensive Soviet vintage, or Japanese diving models, pseudo-military watches and gradually move on to more valuable options, when when buying the next watch, they don’t mind parting with several thousand. .
The most popular collections are:
– wristwatches, the so-called “golden era of watchmaking” (1950-1970). During these years, mechanical watches were assembled by craftsmen by hand, the price corresponded to the quality, and there was active competition among manufacturers. Today, such watches can only be found in antique shops, flea markets, other collectors or at auctions;
– watches of the so-called pre-quartz period (1960-1970), when tuning fork and electromechanical watches were produced, there are few such models and it is very difficult to get them into your collection;
– Seiko: interesting and affordable prices;
– military watches, military chronographs;
– watches from American manufacturers (Elgin, Hampden, Illinois).
Pavel Bure Swiss watch in gold case (before 1920) Price $350
Watches from Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, IWC Portuguese and Rolex Oyster Perpetual of the premiere editions can become the diamond of any collection.
Patek Philippe watch in gold case (pre-1920) Price $10,000
If you are a novice watch collector, then remember an important rule: all details, even the most insignificant ones, must be authentic. Even the smallest non-original part can reduce the cost of a watch by 80%. An equally important factor when evaluating a watch is good working condition, so Swiss watch repair in Moscow a very relevant topic for many collectors. Watches are 100% guaranteed to be authentic when purchased at auction with a corresponding certificate of authenticity. The rules of reputable auction houses provide for the return of the purchase price plus moral damages if the purchase contains a non-original element.
IWC Portuguese Minute Repeater watch. Golden case. Price $45000
IN last years Experts in the field are seeing a significant decline in interest in vintage models. Modern offers of watches of unusual design are more understandable and close to us; among them, it is much easier for collectors to find interesting watches that are considered as a future source of income. Manufacturers have already grasped this point and are specially producing watches aimed at collectors.
Iconic Jaeger Lecoultre Ss Reverso watch. Price $2500
Dear collectors, be prepared for the fact that fast money You can’t make money here, and your collection can only be in demand in the best of times.
Some watch lovers at some point in time become interested in vintage watches. Often - pocket watches, because they are “older” than wristwatches.
There are quite a few reasons for this, as they say, to each his own, and in general, choice is a matter of everyday life. But we can highlight several. The first is an interest in antiques and history. For many watch lovers, it is much more interesting to consider a product with a 100-year history that “survived” the First World War, the 1917 revolution, the Great Patriotic War and other important historical milestones than a quartz craft in a standard case.
Second, antique pocket watches allow you to actively grow your collection without making a significant investment. If, of course, we are talking about affordable and simple models. Someone will be much more interested in “collecting” Swiss watches, from famous brands such as Omega, Zenith and Chopard, rather than buying another faceless hoax for the same amount.
Zenith pocket watch (1917). Price category - up to 300 euros 
Omega pocket watch (1926). Price category up to 300 euros 
Pocket watch L.U. Chopard (1890). Price category - up to 300 euros
Third, some people simply like the style of older watches. All these hands, engravings and so on - this is practically not present in modern watches, if you do not take into account the premium class.
Also, collecting antique watches is an investment. Such watches, at least, do not become cheaper. Many are rising in price. Unlike almost any modern new watch (remove the film, put it on once - already minus 10%).
Of course, collecting old watches is not that easy. Watches require special care, cleaning and lubrication, often restoration, replacement of glass, hands, and much more. A watch that runs for a day or more is a relative rarity, so you will have to wind it often. And not completely. Sellers, out of malice or ignorance, may sell you blatant junk, a “cutlet” (a watch assembled from various leftover spare parts) or even a remake. Anything can happen. But, if you do everything correctly and don’t rush, then the antique watch will delight you.
Some watches are sold at auction as "running for a few minutes." This usually means that someone tried to revive them with oil but overfilled it. The treatment, again, is cleaning. But unless you're a jack of all trades, cleaning will cost more than buying a good watch outright. Especially in the case of cheap mass-produced WWII watches. They cost 30-70 euros. Therefore, if you are not a master of mechanisms, then immediately take a normally working watch.
You can do the following operations yourself: wipe the watch case with a velvet cloth (you can use watch polish) and (this is already an advanced level) clean the watch case using a special paste or just toothpaste (after removing the mechanism). By cleaning you will remove plaque from the case, patina, and sometimes even the smallest scratches. Large scratches will require special tools and skills. Replacing glass is a simple procedure (for a master) and relatively inexpensive. But the dial is the face of the watch. If it has shortcomings, then they can often be eliminated, but this is painstaking and expensive work. Therefore, again, it is better to immediately choose watches with well-preserved dials. A “cobweb” on the dial is not a very good sign; if it is very noticeable, then this dial will need to be replaced.
A separate topic is arrows. Often they are not original. Here a comparison with other watches of the same company or a simple observation can help: whether the minute hand reaches the division on the dial. If not, then the arrows are definitely not original. Glasses are also often changed, especially on the oldest watches, which originally had ordinary glass (plastic glasses were invented in the mid-20s of the 20th century). In general, there are a lot of nuances.
All old pocket watches can be divided into 2 large groups. Of course, such a division is only suitable for residents of the former USSR. So, these are: Soviet and foreign watches. The first group is all kinds of Molniyas, ZIMs and other Soviet-made watches, which cost very moderately and give quite a lot of joy. Especially for a beginner. As they say, buy yourself a Lightning Bolt and think, do you really need all this? Of course, all watches are divided by time periods; the same model can cost differently depending on the year of production, but more on that later.
The second group is Western watches. Swiss, English, French, American and German. They can also distinguish several time periods. These will be inexpensive mass-produced simple watches (in the vast majority of cases, watches with the function of hours, minutes and seconds, that is, 3-handers in cases made of silver at most).
Well, pre-revolutionary Russian brands like Pavel Bure and Kalashnikov can be distinguished into a separate subgroup. These watches were assembled from European components, but on Russian territory, so they occupy a kind of intermediate position.
Pocket watch Pavel Bure, early 20th century. Price category - up to 300 euros European watches in the accessible category come in 2 types: with a crown and with a key (key). Prices for key watches, all other things being equal, are often lower, although it would seem that this is a more “vintage” type of watch. The reason is that they are very expensive to repair; repairs may cost more than buying the same watch in good condition. Therefore, it is better to immediately buy a high-quality watch with a winding key.
And a few words about prices. Of course, everything is highly conditional. Prices vary greatly. The same watch at a flea market, in an antique store, on eBay, or bought from a master can cost completely different money. This is a guideline just to give the reader an idea of how much it might cost in principle. Since the situation with the ruble exchange rate is now very unstable, you will have to indicate the price in US dollars.
An ordinary Soviet zipper from the 70s-80s in excellent condition will cost about $20-30 or more. For Europeans, for $200-250 you can buy something like a simple Zenith from the 20s-30s in good condition. A Pavel Bure watch produced before 1917, in average condition, will cost about the same amount: the whole point is limited competition; there are few such watches in the West.
Where to buy? Antique stores, flea markets, online auctions (specialized and global like eBay, as well as Russian), Western online stores. Everywhere has its pros and cons.
We will talk more about specific watches in future publications. And what’s more, we will have a corresponding pocket watch section.
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