Which tank to install a stereo tube on. World of Tanks equipment: tips and tricks. Vertical stabilizer

Every World of Tanks player must remember that the strengths of a tank can and should be strengthened. Weaknesses, accordingly, need to be eradicated. It is possible to achieve technical balance in a vehicle with the help of the crew (its skills and abilities), equipment and gear..

The reserve pocket does not fit

After purchasing the first tanks of levels 2-3, purchase equipment. At least it's removable. It includes: a camouflage net, a stereo tube and a toolbox. They are transferred from equipment to equipment without the need for dismantling, paid for in gold. Therefore, you should not purchase a dozen camouflage nets or stereo pipes. A couple of copies are enough.

Camouflage net(MS) reduces the visibility of a stationary vehicle. The action is activated 3 seconds after stopping. MS adds: 15% stealth for anti-tank self-propelled guns; 10% for light tanks (LT) and medium tanks; 5% for artillery and heavy tanks. The MS is useful for covert and positional combat, inherent in tank destroyers, as well as passive reconnaissance of armored vehicles. The mass of the MS is 100 kg, and the price is 100,000 credits.

Stereoscopic telescope adds 25% to the view from a stationary vehicle (no more than 445 meters). It allows you to detect the enemy before he detects you. Having the first shot is an important advantage in the game. The stereo tube, like the MC, is suitable for playing tank destroyers or tank destroyers. It is also good because it eliminates the shortcoming of many tanks - a low viewing radius. It's a pity, the properties of this useful item are not combined with coated optics. The mass of the stereo tube is 50 kg, the price is 500,000 credits.

Toolbox increases damage repair speed by 25%. Often it is installed while the crew’s repair skills are being upgraded, and then removed. The weight of the box is considerable - 100 kg, and the cost is even more so - 500,000.

Complex equipment

It can be removed from the vehicle only for 10 units of game gold or after destruction. For this reason, experienced tankers keep a handful of gold in reserve. In the name of economy, carefully consider the need for a particular module on your favorite tank. It's not rubber.

Springs are divided into many types specified in Wot Wiki. Their main tasks are to increase the load-carrying capacity of the chassis and mitigate damage when falling, so springs are useful in two cases. Firstly, they allow you to install a (heavier) cannon or turret if you lack the experience to research the chassis. Secondly, they insure a light and fast tank from severe damage when falling from hills and elevations. The cost of springs varies from 20,000 to 600,000 credits. Not to say that this is the most useful equipment in World of Tanks, but sometimes it makes sense to install them on a temporary basis.

Anti-fragmentation lining- another type of equipment that is not particularly popular. It increases the tank's protection against high-explosive artillery shells and reduces the risk of concussion of crew members by 20/25/30/50%, depending on the type of lining. The cost ranges from 50,000 to 750,000. It is reasonable to buy such a thing only for massive vehicles that often suffer from intense artillery fire. However, save space for more useful accessories.

Improved ventilation(Class 1-3) adds 5% to all crew skills. An excellent choice for those who want to gain an advantage in battle. The equipment is not available only for machines with an open cabin. The cost varies from 50,000 to 600,000 credits, and the weight is 100/150/200 kilograms. Improved ventilation should be installed on any tank, regardless of play style. For what? Because reloading is faster, visibility is better, and movements are more maneuverable. In combination with the Battle Brotherhood skill, commander bonus and premium equipment, you can increase the standard characteristics of the vehicle by 32%.

Wet ammunition rack adds 50% strength to... ammo rack. It's simple. This is not the most necessary equipment in the game, but in isolated cases it can help.

Rammer There are howitzer and gun, being divided into medium and large calibers. It reduces the gun reload time by 10%. It’s a pity that drum-loading tanks won’t have a useful device. Exceptions are: 59-16, Type 5 Chi-Ri and Spahpanzer SP I C. And because these vehicles have an alternative gun with a standard reload. The cost of the rammer varies from 200,000 to 600,000 credits and you shouldn’t skimp on them. Faster reloading - more shots - higher amount of damage - greater contribution to victory.

Additional lugs in most cases a waste of 250,000 credits. One of the most useless and rarely used types of equipment. Increases cross-country ability on soft and medium soils, but has strict restrictions on types of equipment. Grousers are installed on only 12 vehicles, and then mostly German ones. Use the Off-Road King driver skill instead.

Filling CO2 tanks adds 50% strength to tanks, also reducing the risk of fire. Becomes available from vehicle level VI. The equipment shares “honorable” place due to its uselessness with lugs and the “Cyclone” filter. It is useful for those whose tank burns in every battle like a witch at the stake of the Inquisition. The rest are recommended to use the “Cleanliness and Order” skill.

Coated optics - most useful item, adding 10% to the viewing radius and working in motion, unlike the stereo tube. It is possible to install optics on any tank. Blind cars need it for obvious reasons. “Zorkim” will elevate the ability to detect the enemy to the absolute level. Typically, optics are installed on medium and light tanks, whose task is to search for the enemy. It costs 500,000 credits.

Vertical stabilizer installed on light, medium and heavy tanks of Tier VIII-X, as well as some vehicles of a lower rank. The module reduces the dispersion of the gun when moving and turning the turret, i.e. Increases accuracy on the move. It costs from 500,000 to 600,000 credits. Its purchase is strictly recommended for fans of Soviet and American ST or TT.

Reinforced aiming drives- a necessary thing for any tanker. Unfortunately, most guns are slow to engage, and drives reduce this disadvantage by 10%. For some cars, this equipment turns from a panacea into a dope, increasing the already rapid reduction to indecent speeds. It’s not worth half a kingdom, but it’s definitely worth half a million.

Filter "Cyclone" increases engine durability by 50% with a limit of soviet tanks and is infinitely far from the status of “Best Seller”. So he’s not worth his 500,000 credits.

Summing up and distributing advice

Not all equipment is equally useful or effective. The most important thing for the player is to choose the ideal kit for a specific car, revealing its full potential. Let’s take, for example, an “American” of level X without obvious disadvantages - T110E5. Good stabilization of the gun is complemented by a vertical stabilizer. Fast reloading is accelerated by the gun rammer. Crew skills increase after installing improved ventilation. As a result, the T110E5 becomes even more accurate, faster and more dangerous for the enemy. The Soviet Tier VIII heavyweight IS-3, on the contrary, has disadvantages. However, the slow aiming of the gun is offset by aiming drives, poor shooting on the move by a stabilizer, and slow reloading by a large-caliber rammer.

Final advice: Do not spend a huge amount of credits on purchasing modules, but try to wait for holiday promotions from Wargaming. Discounts on equipment will allow you to replenish your own warehouse, saving significantly on purchases.

Equipment — important element gameplay World of Tanks, which is needed to enhance the advantages and combat the disadvantages of individual tanks. Equipment can be combined in a variety of ways to create a build that perfectly suits your playstyle and, accordingly, increases your combat effectiveness.

Let's look at each type of equipment separately, and then look at the most popular and effective builds.

(Note: since in the game client before purchasing any tank it is impossible to find out what equipment is installed on it, I recommend usingthis site . Select the tank you need, and in the window that opens, click the “Modules” button. Another option is to look at the compatible equipment on the tank page in "tank wiki ».)

Removable equipment

Due to the fact that you don’t have to spend gold to remove equipment from this category, it is often used by beginners. It is usually placed on a tank if the player has not yet really decided on the tactics of the game.

Toolbox

Effect: +25% to the repair speed of tank modules (from base)

A good choice for players who have not upgraded the “Repair” skill (which gives a 100% increase in repair speed), or have not accumulated silver/gold to purchase/remove expensive complex equipment. As silver accumulates, it becomes irrelevant for more serious modules. When used simultaneously with a skill being upgraded, the effects stack.

Camouflage net

Effect: -25% to the visibility of a stationary tank

Previously, it was effective on vehicles with a low silhouette (StuG III, JagdPanzer IV) and practically useless on armored sheds (SU-14, Object 212, SU-100Y, Maus), but in update 0.8.6 the effect will change from multiplying to folding. This means that the mesh will have a noticeable effect on all machines. Begins to take effect 3 seconds after the tank has come to a complete stop; it is active when the turret rotates, but not when the body turns. Also during battle, a special indicator appears showing the network status.

Network is inactive

Network active

Stereoscopic telescope

Effect: +25% to the viewing radius from a stationary tank, but not more than 500 meters*

It is most often used on low- and medium-level low-blind vehicles; it is also quite widely used on tank destroyers. The mechanics of action are similar to the mask net: it is activated three seconds after the tank has completely stopped, and continues to work when the turret rotates.

Stereo tube is inactive

Stereo tube active

*In fact, the maximum viewing range in the game is 445 meters along the coordinate axes of the map, and 500 only diagonally. This is due to engine limitations. In the event that, when using a stereo scope, optics and corresponding skills, the viewing radius exceeds 445-500 meters, the excess goes to neutralize the camouflage of enemies.

Complex equipment

Equipment from this category can be removed without its destruction for only 10 gold or sold along with the tank.

Rammer

Effect: -10% to charging time

Perhaps the most useful equipment in the game. The faster we shoot, the faster we destroy the enemy, preventing him from causing us a lot of damage. There are several types of rammers:

• medium-caliber gun rammer - installed on all light and medium tanks, heavy tanks up to level 6 inclusive and tank destroyers up to level 6-7 inclusive
• large caliber gun rammer - all heavy tanks from level 7, tank destroyers from level 7-8
• medium-caliber howitzer rammer - all self-propelled guns with top guns with a caliber of up to 155 millimeters
• large-caliber howitzer rammer - all self-propelled guns with top guns with a caliber of over 203 millimeters

The rammer is not installed on tanks above level 6 with a drum loading mechanism (except for the Chinese LT 59-16).

Reinforced aiming drives

Effect: +10% to convergence speed

Second most useful equipment. Reduces aiming time. It performs best on machines with long mixing times, such as Soviet, Chinese and German tanks, as well as on all self-propelled guns without exception. It is recommended to install a vertical stabilizer on all other tanks (more on that below).

Vertical stabilizer

Effect: -20% to dispersion when moving and turning the turret

Reduces the sight circle by 20% when moving and turning the turret. Installed on heavy and medium tanks of tier 8-10, as well as on Type 62, M24 Chaffee, T21, M4A3E2 Sherman Jumbo, M4A3E8 Sherman, T20, T71, T29. Recommended for installation on all of the above tanks, except in cases where you are going to play the role of passive light (on the M24 Chaffee) or anti-tank gun - in short, do not move much. More details about the influence of the stabilizer and drives on the sight and the speed of its aiming are shown in this video.

Improved ventilation

Effect: +5% to all skills of the entire crew

All performance characteristics of the tank for which the crew is responsible are improved (rate of fire, aiming speed, accuracy, visibility, acceleration from a standstill, turret and tank traverse speed, communication range), as well as all crew skills (repair, camouflage, etc.). However, this is a rather controversial type of equipment. And all because 5% to the crew’s skills, when converted to the performance characteristics of the tank, turns into 2.5 percent. Is it a lot or a little - decide for yourself. However, it makes sense to install ventilation on tanks with loading drums (due to the lack of a rammer), as well as on Soviet self-propelled guns SU-14 and Object 212.

Coated optics

Effect: +10% to viewing radius

It gives a smaller increase in visibility than a stereo tube, but it works on a moving tank. When using optics and a pipe together, the bonuses do not stack, that is, if you stand, the pipe works, if you move, the optics works. Recommended for installation on vehicles with a viewing radius of 380-390 meters.

Anti-fragmentation lining

Effect: +15% to damage absorption from explosions and rams

Reduces damage from ramming and hits from high-explosive fragmentation shells. Overall, not a very popular type of equipment. Most often it is installed on German tanks with thick armor, for example, on the Maus and E-100 (for protection against landmines), as well as the E50 and E50M (to improve ramming). Since the lining has a fairly large mass, it is not worth installing it on medium and light tanks; you will lose acceleration dynamics.

Reinforced springs

Effect: +10% to the chassis' carrying capacity and + 30% to its durability

Reinforced springs/torsion bars/suspension/balancers/springs/Belleville washers are all essentially the same type of equipment. It happens that the top chassis has not yet been opened, but you want to install heavier modules or equipment. This is where reinforced springs come to the rescue. One occupied slot for equipment and 10 gold for removing springs are worth it to immediately install decent weapons, an engine, and so on on your tank.

Wet ammunition rack

Effect: +50% to ammo rack strength

Increases the HP of the ammunition rack. Accordingly, more shots will be required to damage or detonate it. The probability of damage does not change. May be useful for tanks with vulnerable ammunition, such as T-54, T110E5, T-44, Type 59, IS-3, IS-7.

Filling CO2 tanks

Effect: +50% to the strength of fuel tanks

A very highly specialized and therefore virtually unnecessary type of equipment. Although the T-54 and its Soviet and Chinese descendants may be of some benefit, more important equipment will have to be abandoned. It is best to carry a fire extinguisher with you, because two fires in a battle are a very rare event.

Filter "Cyclone"

Effect: +50% to engine strength

Installed only on Soviet tanks. Theoretically, it would be good in conjunction with a tightened engine speed regulator on Soviet LT, but, as measurements show, the regulator does not remove HP, but percentages of health. Therefore, the “Cyclone” filter only helps against engine crits from projectiles, which would be useful only on Germans with a front-mounted transmission.

Additional lugs

Effect: +10% permeability on soft soils, +5% permeability on medium soils

Perhaps the most useless equipment. Installed only on Hummel, JagdPz IV, PzKpfw III, PzKpfw III/IV, PzKpfw III Ausf. A, PzKpfw IV, PzKpfw IV Hydraulic, StuG III, VK 3001 (H), Sturmpanzer II, SU-85I. It’s better to upgrade your driver’s “Off-Road King” skill.

The most popular and effective equipment bundles

Rammer-stabilizer-optics

A gentleman's set for heavy and medium tanks, level 8-10 tanks. We shoot more often, converge faster, see further. Due to the lack of a stabilizer, we install aiming drives on high-level tank destroyers. On tanks with drums, instead of the missing rammer, ventilation or aiming drives are installed.

Rammer-stabilizer-aiming drives/rammer-stabilizer-fan

Alternative options for top tanks. The first option speeds up the convergence of the tank almost to the maximum. The second option slightly improves all the characteristics, but it would be nice to have a pumped-up “Combat Brotherhood” for the crew.

Rammer - aiming drives - stereo tube

Option for medium and medium tanks and tank destroyers high levels with insufficient visibility, such as KV-1S, T-150, IS-3, ISU-152, Ferdinand, etc.

Rammer-ventilation-optics

Option for tanks with fast aiming and high visibility (Tortoise, JagdTiger 8.8, Comet)

Rammer - aiming drives - mask network

Assembly for self-propelled guns. On the SU-14 and Object 212 it is recommended to install ventilation instead of a network; for all others, the network can be replaced with anti-fragmentation lining.

Stereo tube-optics-ventilation

Assembly for light tanks dealing with active and passive light. When focusing on passive light, ventilation can be replaced with a mask network.

Aiming drives - stereo tube - mask network

Assembly for “sand benders”. To some extent, the main disadvantages of low-level machines are leveled out - low visibility and long convergence.

Filter Cyclone-optics-reinforced springs

“Exclusive” assembly for Soviet fireflies, which ride with a tightened engine speed controller.

Let us separately recall that with new system camouflage mask network becomes much more effective on large vehicles, which makes it mandatory equipment for artillery and, at a minimum, useful for vehicles that primarily conduct ambush combat.

That's all. Good luck on the battlefield!

Which modules should I download first? What is better to put on your PT - “horns” or optics? Which crew perks should you upgrade first, and which ones are not needed at all? What shells should be installed in the ammunition load? Read about it below

The order of pumping modules:

1. gun/chassis
2. engine
3. walkie-talkie

Let us remind you: The AT is, first of all, a weapon. The gun feeds us, it brings us income and experience. And therefore, if the chassis allows, we pump up the gun first. Having a good weapon on board will allow us to farm experience and everything else much faster. Next step— pumping up the chassis. Without a new chassis, you will not be able to install the remaining modules; you may not have enough carrying capacity. The main bonus of the new move is increased speed turning the car. And for a tank destroyer, in which the fire sector is changed mainly by rotating the body, this is an important indicator.

The only exception to this rule is the case when the existing chassis does not allow us to install a top gun. In this case, the chassis will be pumped first.

The next module bleeds the engine. At the same time, we further increase the acceleration and turning speed of the car. This allows us to quickly reach the desired positions, change them faster, and also leave them faster if detected. All this directly affects our survival.

With the last module we pump up the radio station. The module is quite important, but for a vehicle located in the rear of the main forces, it is not the most necessary. (later, when playing on low-level machines, you, of course, will understand how much you miss a good radio station, since you cannot fully evaluate the minimap, but in ordinary, unperverted combat, it is not the most important module).

Which consumables to choose?

Don't skimp on consumables either. Sometimes your life depends on their presence. Here the technology is as follows:

First of all, put it in the second slot small repair kit. This is almost our most important consumable. You may not have a first aid kit or fire extinguisher, but a repair kit must be present. Don't be lazy and deliver! The first and most common problem in the game is broken tracks. A missing track for a vehicle without a turret, in which changing the firing sector directly depends on the chassis, is tantamount to death. Therefore, we put the repair kit in the second slot and, if necessary, very quickly activate it by double pressing key 5. Why key 5? Because the tracks are in fifth position, and they are often shot down.

First aid kit— the second most necessary consumable. It is very bad to play with a crit gunner or driver. Therefore, a first aid kit is also needed. They install it in different ways, for us it is more convenient in slot 4, because there, number four on the list, is the mechanical drive, without which you are an easy target.

Fire extinguisher? We do not see the need for a fire extinguisher for vehicles that do not have special armor and do not even have time to catch fire when hit. Therefore, for a hunter class tank destroyer, buy it better gasoline (or oil, tightened regulator). Due to this, you will get a noticeable increase in speed, power (and therefore throttle response and turning speed).

If it is expensive to carry gasoline, or you think that it is not the most necessary element for you, carry automatic fire extinguisher. It will add fire resistance to the car and will automatically work once every five years, which may save your life. Believe me, this is much more convenient than a manual fire extinguisher. Moreover, it will pay off in 4-5 battles.

Which optional equipment put:

First module: Camouflage net. For a vehicle that must fight in the style of a sniper, camouflage is the first thing necessary. Buy without thinking. It is inexpensive, and the benefits you get from it are simply enormous. This equipment can be removed and installed on other machines, so even if you don’t like the machine, it will still be useful on the farm.

An alternative view of the grid:

The fact is that camouflage is relevant at the moment of entering a position, i.e. in move. But when we move and we really need camouflage, the mesh doesn’t work. De facto, when firing, we can only rely on the bush, the terrain, or the enemy’s blindness; the reticle has virtually no effect on camouflage at the time of the shot and very little enhances camouflage in the bush. There is some significant bonus from the network when standing in an open field without shooting, but the very fact of standing motionless in an open field means that we are doing something wrong. Camouflage, IMHO, is more important than mesh, because... Camo always works and allows us to move around unnoticed.

Second module: Yagers, like a real sniper, have good vision and high visibility. Strengthening it is a good decision. But here you will have to choose between what to install: coated optics or a stereo tube. This problem should be resolved based on your playing style.

More information about the grid:
I took it to the OF in the developers' answers:
Question:
Does the effect of the camouflage net disappear after a shot if the tank remains motionless?
Answer:
No. The effect of the camouflage net does not disappear after the shot.

Camouflage network. Wiki
Effect: Significantly reduces the visibility of a stationary tank after three seconds after stopping. Acts as a term. For PT - 15%; For ST, LT - 10%; For TT, Arty - 5%
Cost: 100,000 Credits
Weight: 100 kg

How does the Camouflage Network work?
The camouflage net is a removable equipment that significantly reduces the visibility of a stationary tank (after three seconds after the vehicle stops). Being a removable piece of equipment, the Camouflage Net can be moved to another tank.

The camouflage net gives a certain bonus to the tank's camouflage level depending on its type. For tank destroyers this bonus will be higher, for medium and light tanks - lower. For heavy tanks and self-propelled guns, the bonus from the Camouflage Network will be lower than the bonus for medium and light tanks and tank destroyers. In order for this additional equipment to become active, it is necessary to fix the body of the equipment for 3 seconds, after which the Camouflage Network will begin to operate - this will be indicated by the corresponding green backlight along the edges of the Camouflage Network emblem. Any subsequent movement will again require 3 seconds of rest to activate the Cloaking Net. If in battle you prefer to support tanks from the second line, then the tanks will shine on you and the stereo tube (which, like the mask network, only works 5 seconds after stopping), you will not definitely need. And it’s better to install optics. The increase in viewing range from optics, of course, is not so large, but it is at least constant. If you prefer ambush tactics in open areas, then a stereo scope will come in handy. In the field, armed with a stereo tube, a tank destroyer of the second or third level with a basic visibility of 370-400m can sometimes even stop a heavy vehicle of the 5th level and hold it until it approaches you within detection range. It is enough to knock down his harp, criticize the modules and hit vulnerable areas, and then the rest of the team will arrive and help dismantle this monster. In addition, the pipe is a removable module that can be moved from machine to machine and therefore will be useful in any case. The correct choice of modules is usually confirmed by the enemy. Like that:

Third module: At low levels it is not possible to install a rammer, so your choice is reinforced aiming drives. Changing the firing sector on a tank vehicle often occurs with the help of tracks, and the aiming is lost in the process. Therefore, faster mixing will be of great help to you.

At levels above the third there is a larger selection of modules. Equip your car with modules depending on what you want to achieve: improve the strengths of your car or strengthen its weaknesses. To play solo, of course, it is worth strengthening your weaknesses. If you have a company or platoon vehicle, it is better to strengthen it.

You can evaluate the strengths and weaknesses based on the performance characteristics of the vehicle. For example, a visibility of 350 meters, like that of the SU-100, is a weak point. If you play solo, take the horns, rammer and net. If you play in a platoon or in a company, take a net (or a fan if you already have a well-pumped crew and everyone has 100% camouflage), drives and a rammer.

Shells:

There is only one piece of advice. If ammunition allows, do not skimp, carry with you 4-5 sub-caliber (cumulative) shells and a dozen high-explosive shells. They will help you when you run into some cast iron muzzle like the KV or T1 Heavy. At long distances, typical for anti-tank missiles, it is sometimes difficult to get the AP into a vulnerable spot.

Land mines help a lot. They are guaranteed to remove at least some HP from the enemy, forcing him to think ten times about continuing to move in your direction. Land mines are also very good for one-shotting small artefacts. You need to fire 2 shots with an AP shell; during the reload time for the second shot, the artillery can either knock you down or respond by one-shotting you.

Please note that sub-caliber shells lose armor penetration at long range, so it is better not to use them. The fact that you bought a projectile for in-game gold does not guarantee penetration =)

Crew Perks Perk number one - disguise. High-quality camouflage is the key to the survival of any sniper. The same applies to the Yager class anti-tank self-propelled guns. Upgrade everything disguise for the crew.

Quote - cheburillo:

Masking only affects the detection distance. The disappearance time from the light ranges from 1 to 8 seconds (without gadgets like vindictive ones) and it depends only on the order in which the server calculates “review ticks”. (30 Jan 2013 - 13:20)

Many people believe that the commander immediately needs to start pumping up his sixth sense (light bulb) and the rest of the crew – camouflage. This is incorrect for two reasons: firstly, in this case, you will be carrying a useless commander with you the entire time you are leveling up the 1st perk (the light starts working only after reaching 100%), and secondly, you must have YOUR sixth sense.

You should intuitively feel when you are visible and when you are not, when you need to change your position and “tear your claws”, when not to shoot, when not to move, etc. and so on. The lamp operates after the fact, 3 seconds after you detect it. We can say that when it lights up, the enemy is already aiming at you, and there is nothing to think about - shed instantly. And besides, the lamp will initially dull your own senses. Being already an experienced fighter, you will learn to identify danger without it, and the lamp will simply confirm your fear. In addition: after leveling up camouflage to 100%, the commander can always reset this perk and turn it into a light bulb.

The next perks after camouflage should be to upgrade that same light bulb, which is vindictive for the gunner (a very useful skill for shooting through opaque bushes), something that enhances your maneuverability

Equipment- an important element of the package gaming equipment to improve some of its characteristics to suit the specific needs of the player and his playing style. Properly selected equipment will weaken the negative effect of the combat vehicle’s shortcomings and/or enhance its advantages.

Description of equipment

All equipment in the game is divided into removable and complex. Removable equipment can be moved from one tank to another without special restrictions (the tank must be repaired). In turn, complex equipment can be returned to the warehouse only by paying 10 gold. For 1 USD You can remove 25 pieces of complex equipment.

Removable equipment

The removable equipment is an “economy package”: stereo tube + tool box + camouflage net. This configuration is very convenient for those who are short of credits or do not want to transfer complex equipment for gold to pass-through tanks. In any case, equipment slots should never be left empty - they can always be covered with a pipe, box or net if you have one. You never know in advance how the battle will go. Perhaps timely detection of the enemy or a second bonus to repairs will save the life of your tank or help you win a difficult battle.

Stereoscopic telescope

Effect: +25% to viewing radius from a stationary tank.

Description: One of the most useful types of equipment. A 25% review bonus is very impressive and sometimes decisive. A tank or self-propelled gun that spots the enemy first has a huge tactical advantage. As a rule, this is the right to the first shot or the opportunity for various maneuvers (change of position, retreat, turning to the enemy with armor). Besides, good review beneficial in financial terms: if a tank sees further, then it is less likely to shoot at someone else’s light, on the contrary, it shines on its allies, thereby earning credits - as a result, all the income from its own shots and part of the income from the shots of allies goes into the piggy bank.

The stereo tube only works in a stationary position, so amateurs active play usually they prefer an alternative - coated optics. However, in fact, even fast tanks can benefit greatly from the use of a stereo tube. This can be a passive light for allies or a careful advance from cover to cover: when we reach a bush, we look around, if there is no danger, we move on.

Of course, the greatest benefit from the stereo scope will be felt by blind-sighted tank destroyers, such as Ferdinand, ISU-152, Jagdpanther and others. The pipe will allow them to detect the enemy at the limit of visibility first, shoot and reverse into cover to reload.

For blind vehicles with 260-330 vision (Hetzer, SU-152, SAu-40 and others), the stereo tube can become a real lifesaver, especially at the end of the battle, when you need to drag. Even with a stereo tube weak tank capable of fighting off several enemies coming under fire one at a time, or directing friendly artillery fire at them.

The pipe should not be used on close combat tanks such as Maus, E-100, IS-7, KV-5 and others. In addition, on equipment with a field of view of 390+, the effect of the pipe will be excessive at a visibility limit of 445 meters. Of course, in this case the tank receives a bonus to uncloaking enemies, but it is still more rational to use optics on such vehicles.

Verdict: The stereo tube is of little use on howitzer self-propelled guns and close combat vehicles. For combat vehicles with a field of view of 390 and more, it is more rational to use coated optics. For all others, this type of equipment is recommended for use. For most ambush snipers and fans of passive light tactics, installing it is a must.

Toolbox

Effect: +25% to repair speed.

Description: This type of equipment is useful on vehicles that are often used to crit something. First of all, these are tracks and weapons. In this regard, the box will be of greatest benefit to heavy tanks close combat with a large margin of safety (E-100, E-75, T32, KV-5, IS-3 and others) - they often have to either become a diamond or dance with their body, making it difficult for the enemy to aim. In such cases, the projectile often flies into the track. American tank destroyers and tank destroyers, such as T29, T32, T30, usually play through the tower and often receive crit from their guns several times per battle. In addition, super-armored vehicles, such as the Maus, often suffer from gun crits - desperate to penetrate their armor, lower-level enemies like to switch to landmines and ruin our lives by breaking the main caliber. Speeding up repairs will be useful for tank destroyers - enemies often deliberately knock down a track in order to enter the flank and rear of a helpless self-propelled gun. Often, the caterpillar is torn off by an artillery land mine that explodes nearby. Timely repairs will allow you to avoid subsequent shells fired in pursuit.

It is important to remember that the effect of the box stacks with the “Repair” skill upgraded by the crew. Moreover, without repair, the box will be practically useless. It’s another matter when the repair is progressing, but has not yet reached 100%, and this case is the most common reason for installing a toolbox. That is, when pumping repairs from the crew on some TT or ST, we place a box. When the repairs are completely (or almost completely) upgraded for all tankers, we replace the box with some other useful equipment. It is worth considering that the repair time for modules varies from machine to machine. For example, with the German VK3601(H), with 100% repair, a downed track is repaired in 7 seconds. Installing a box helps reduce this time to 5 seconds.

In general, the recommendations for using the box are the same as for using the repair skill. Where repair is the first skill (and this is most of the equipment in the game), that’s where the box comes in handy. And where we use skill 3-4 to repair, the box won’t be particularly useful. Among such vehicles we can note LT and ST up to level 5, as well as all howitzer self-propelled guns. The reason lies in the fact that for tanks with a small safety margin, stopping under fire due to the loss of a track usually leads to quick death. The caterpillar simply does not have time to be repaired (either with or without a box) and it is more advisable to use a repair kit.

Verdict: A toolbox is a useful type of equipment. Recommended for TT, ST and tank destroyers from level 5, whose crews are doing repairs. Most useful for heavy tanks with a lot of HP. It can be removed free of charge, so it can be useful as a temporary measure for tanks that have not yet purchased the necessary equipment.

Camouflage net

Effect: Significantly reduces the visibility of a stationary vehicle.

Description: Unlike the “Camouflage” skill, the net is useful not only for stealth vehicles - the bonus to stealth is fixed. However, you should occupy a precious equipment slot with a camouflage network where it is really necessary and in conjunction with the “Disguise” skill.

A network combined with a stereo tube can be useful for passive light: light tank with camouflage, a net and a stereo tube, he drives into a bush not far from the enemy’s path of movement and directs fire from his allies, remaining unnoticed. In addition, nothing prevents the use of similar tactics on tank destroyers: up to certain moment We shine light on our allies, and when the enemy comes close, we open fire ourselves.

The grid can also be useful on self-propelled guns if enemy light has broken through to it. If the scout is not coming straight at you, but is busy searching at a certain distance, it will be more useful to hide, covered with a net, rather than try to destroy the enemy yourself, thereby revealing your position. Even if there is nowhere to wait for help, good camouflage gives you a chance to let your enemies get closer and make a more prepared shot.

Verdict: a useful type of equipment. Recommended for light tanks, tank destroyers and self-propelled guns, whose crews upgrade camouflage. The greatest benefit will come to fans of careful play and sniper tactics, well versed in the game's camouflage and detection mechanics.

Complex equipment

All of the equipment listed below can be removed from the vehicle in only 10.

Rammer

Effect: -10% to charging time.

Description: It would not be an exaggeration to call this type of equipment the most useful in the game. On the one hand, it improves the most important combat characteristic of the tank – rate of fire. On the other hand, the 10% increase itself is very significant. It is thanks to these two factors that the rammer has gained immense popularity among players. It is used on almost all tanks and self-propelled guns, wherever its installation is possible and is included in everything, even the most specific assemblies.

The rammer is very important for self-propelled guns and tanks with long reload times, since the longer the loading time, the greater the benefits of this type of equipment. It should be remembered that the rammer is not installed on equipment with a drum or cassette loading mechanism.

Tanks with a very high reload speed, such as the Churchill III, can do without a rammer. Their rate of fire is already very high. Moreover, the rate of fire of such tanks exceeds the aiming speed of the gun. That is, when shooting at medium and long distances, the rate of fire is excessive and you have to either artificially slow down the rate of fire, pressing the trigger less often, or shoot without full information, showering the enemy with hurricane but inaccurate fire. At the same time, at close range, when accuracy matters little, an extra fraction of a second between shots can decide the outcome of the confrontation.

Verdict: A very useful piece of equipment. Recommended for installation on all combat vehicles. An exception may be vehicles with a very high rate of fire, where the sight reduction cannot keep up with reloading.

Reinforced aiming drives

Effect: +10% to aiming speed.

Description: This type of equipment is best suited for vehicles that shoot from a standstill. In other cases, it is preferable to install a vertical stabilizer, which will be discussed a little later. Accelerating convergence is important for those who have it for a long time, and this is, first of all, all self-propelled guns - for them the use of a rammer + drive combination is an axiom. Owners of Soviet equipment will feel significant benefits from enhanced aiming drives: on most Soviet guns, aiming and accuracy leave much to be desired, and the drives will come in very handy. For the Germans, Americans and British, a stabilizer is more suitable, since their aiming speed is high and the drives will not have a noticeable effect.

The drives would be quite appropriate on drum and cassette tanks, since they do not have a rammer installed.

Verdict: a useful type of equipment. Second most popular after the rammer. Must have for artillery, tanks and tank destroyers with long aiming.

Vertical stabilizer

Effect: -20% to dispersion when moving and turning the turret.

Description: Contrary to popular belief, this useful piece of equipment is not only important for those who like to shoot on the move. Even an ambush sniper can sense positive effect stabilizer, because when selecting a target and switching from one target to another, you have to constantly rotate the turret. The smaller the initial spread, the smaller the circle the convergence will start from, which means it will take less time. In addition, an unprepared shot (a shot without aiming) will be more accurate.

The same applies to shooting on the move. Of course, a tank that fires while moving will receive a bonus. But don’t forget that the tank that stopped to fire will also receive a bonus from the stabilizer. That is, with a sharp stop, the sight will begin to converge from a smaller circle.

As mentioned above, the stabilizer is best suited for tanks with high aiming speeds. However, it will also be useful for other machines. In most assemblies, the combination of rammer + stabilizer or rammer + reinforced aiming drives is the main one. Disputes flare up only around the third slot for equipment.

Verdict: A very useful piece of equipment. Recommended for installation on all combat vehicles. The vertical aiming stabilizer provides faster aiming in the vast majority of cases than reinforced aiming drives.

Coated optics

Effect: +10% to viewing radius.

Description: The importance of such a parameter as a review was discussed in the section about Stereo Tube. Optics gives a smaller bonus, but it works constantly, and not just after stopping. In this regard, optics are needed for those who are actively operating on the battlefield. First of all, these are medium and light tanks. It wouldn’t hurt for the latter to install both optics and a stereo tube at the same time. This allows you to combine active light tactics with passive ones. Optics are also an excellent choice for combat vehicles with a viewing range of 390 meters. We see far and constantly.

Verdict: a useful type of equipment. Important for light tanks. Otherwise, an excellent choice for most combat vehicles, along with a rammer and stabilizer.

Improved ventilation

Effect: +5% to all skills of the entire crew.

Description: There is a lot of controversy around the ventilation (or “vent”, as the players call it for short), as well as the similar crew skill “Combat Brotherhood”. Who installs the valve on all their combat vehicles(except for self-propelled guns with open deckhouses, where there are no problems with air circulation), some use it selectively, others don’t use it at all.

First, let's look at what exactly ventilation affects: visibility, gun aiming and turret traverse speed, gun accuracy, reload speed, acceleration, traverse speed, communication range, as well as all additional skills such as repair and camouflage. It looks good - almost all characteristics of the tank are improved. The next question is: how much do they improve? And here lies the main catch: 5% to the basic skill of the crew is approximately 2-2.5% to the real performance characteristics of the vehicle. In fact, this is a tiny addition that is not noticeable in battle. Experiments were carried out: the difference in drum charging for the AMX 13-90 with and without a valve was about a second, for the Type 59 - 0.15 seconds! This difference is invisible to human perception and is also eaten up by technical factors such as ping and response time.

Similar experiments have been carried out many times, their results can be found on the forum. Thus, people who claim that they installed ventilation and “improved EVERYTHING!”, and also describe in detail how their tanks began to drive fast, shoot accurately and quickly, are under the Placebo effect, that is, self-hypnosis.

However, the effect of ventilation can be enhanced by leveling up the “Combat Brotherhood” skill and using premium consumables (Improved diet, Chocolate, etc.). In this case, you can achieve a truly noticeable improvement in performance.

Ventilation can serve its purpose on low-level tanks: they often lack other useful equipment such as a rammer. In addition, ventilation is cheap for light tanks.

In addition, ventilation can be used to reduce the negative effect of an insufficiently pumped crew. For example, a new 75% or retrained 90% crew will perform their duties better if fresh air is supplied to the interior of the combat vehicle. When tank crews reach 100% of their main specialty, ventilation can be replaced with other equipment.

Verdict: The benefits of using improved ventilation are controversial. On the one hand, almost all machine parameters are improved; on the other hand, the increase itself is insignificant. It makes sense to use ventilation only in conjunction with the crew’s “Combat Brotherhood” and gold consumables, and also in cases where there is no other alternative.

Anti-fragmentation lining

Effect: from 15% to 50% to absorb damage from explosions and ramming, as well as protect the crew from injury.

Description: First, let's look at the first indicator. Absorption is absorption, that is, in simple terms, lining reduces damage from collisions and hits from high-explosive fragmentation shells. The addition is quite serious, there is reason to think about installing this module on some machines. Logic dictates that reducing damage from land mines and collisions will be useful for those who often ram opponents and who are often shot at by land mines. Heavy tanks such as the E-100, Maus, IS-7, KV-5, KV-4 and some others fall under these conditions. All these are vehicles with a large mass and an excellent ram, and the increase from the lining itself is maximum on them (50% for a super-heavy lining). Speaking of rams, we can also recall the E-50 and E-50 ausf. M - on them, the lining can be of great benefit, although such a layout is extraordinary, rather funky. An excellent effect can be obtained by combining the lining and pumping up the “Battering Ram Master” from the driver.

As for the protection of crew members, this is a very serious argument in favor of installing a lining. Personal experience showed that on tanks with a well-protected crew, such as the E-100, installing a lining provides almost 100% protection from injury. In addition to the obvious benefits, this also allows you to replace the first aid kit with another consumable.

It is also important to note that the lining itself has a large mass: from 250 kg to 1.5 tons, depending on the class. It makes the car heavier, but the ram also becomes more powerful.

Verdict: the lining is useful on heavy tanks with strong armor and a powerful ram.

Reinforced springs

Effect: +10% to load capacity and increased chassis strength.

Description: Reinforced Springs / Torsion Bars / Suspension / Balancers / Springs / Belleville Washers - all this is essentially one type of equipment for different types technology. A disclaimer is immediately necessary: ​​this type of equipment does not improve the driving performance of the combat vehicle, only the load-carrying capacity and strength of the tracks. If everything is clear with the durability of the tracks (the less often they fly off, the better), then the increase in carrying capacity is worth mentioning separately.

This type of equipment is used mainly on stock machines. Most tanks cannot be equipped with a top turret or guns without first replacing the chassis. Sometimes the desired powerful weapon is already open, but the stock chassis does not allow it to be installed, and there is no experience with a new chassis. In order not to suffer on a stock tank for several dozen battles before opening the chassis, you can install springs (or their equivalent). They will allow you to install the necessary modules and equipment without a new chassis. This, in turn, will increase the combat effectiveness of the tank and it will be easier to gain experience on the chassis. After researching and installing the chassis, the springs can be replaced with something more useful.

Verdict: the use of this type of equipment is limited to stock equipment, which does not have enough carrying capacity, as well as light tanks that use the “active light” tactic.

Wet ammunition rack

Effect: +50% to ammo rack strength.

Description: All you need to know here is that wet ammo rack is only needed on those vehicles where it detonates frequently. It is detonation, not damage, although these are often interconnected. Like the “Non-contact ammo rack” skill, this equipment will not save you from damage to the ammunition (up to the yellow state).

When your absolutely intact tank is blown up with one shot, you experience a storm of negative emotions, so you remember such moments well. However, if you think about it, situations like this happen quite rarely. Is it worth spending a slot for equipment for them? Everyone makes their own choice.

Verdict: this type of equipment is useful on tanks whose ammunition detonates most often. These include: IS-3, Type 59, T-44, less commonly T110E5 and IS-7. For other equipment, cases of ammunition explosions are rare.

Filling CO2 tanks

Effect: +50% to the durability of fuel tanks.

Description: Damaging tanks to a yellow state does not have any negative effects. Damage to the red state leads to fire. Thus, this type of equipment may be useful on vehicles that are prone to frequent fires due to hits in the tanks (but not in the engine or transmission).

The usefulness of this type of equipment is questionable. A fire extinguisher usually saves you from one fire. Two fires per battle are very rare. In addition, the equipment does not provide reliable 100% protection of tanks. If the enemy targets the tanks, no amount of carbon dioxide will save the car, it will only give a head start of 1-2 hits.

Verdict: highly specialized type of equipment. Of the vehicles where tanks often burn, we can recall the KV-1, KV-1S, KV-3 and T-62A. And even then, in most cases, a fire extinguisher helps.

Filter Cyclone

Effect: +50% to engine strength.

Description: The Cyclone filter is installed only on Soviet tanks. In most cases, the best engine protection is to not turn your stern towards the enemy. In general, the situation is the same as with wet ammunition racks and filling CO2 tanks. It seems to be useful, but there is always something more useful.

There is only one caveat here. Some players use the “Cyclone Filter + Tightened Engine Speed ​​Control” assembly, suggesting that the filter will help drive longer at higher speeds. However, in reality this is not the case. The reason lies in the fact that the regulator does not remove individual points from the engine, but percentages of strength.

Verdict: specialized type of equipment. In most cases, it gives way to other more necessary equipment.

Additional lugs

Effect: +10% permeability on soft soils, +5% permeability on medium soils.

Description: A specialized type of equipment, available only for some, not the most common, German cars.

Most of the soils in the game are medium, so an increase in cross-country ability on them is relevant. But the 5% bonus itself is not very big and is unlikely to be noticeable. However, it can be strengthened by upgrading the driver’s “Off-Road King” skill. However, even in this case, the tank will not roll through swamps as it does on asphalt. One way or another, it is better to avoid difficult areas.

Verdict: specialized type of equipment. Installed on a small number of tanks. Inferior in usefulness to other types of equipment. As a result, it is not widely used among players.

Equipment assemblies

This section lists the most common types of equipment assemblies and provides general recommendations for their use. More detailed equipment recommendations for each tank can be found in the equipment articles on the wiki.

	"Sighted universal" The most common assembly. The emphasis is on improving combat performance and visibility. This assembly is ideal for almost all heavy and especially medium tanks of levels 8-10.
	"Alternative station wagon" This build is suitable for experienced crews with 3-4 additional specialties. The combination of ventilation + combat brotherhood + radio interception + eagle eye gives an increase in visibility equal to optics. At the same time, the bonus of ventilation and combat brotherhood slightly increases other characteristics of the tank.
	"Drummer" This assembly is recommended for installation on tanks with an automatic loader. If the crew does not have a fighting fraternity, then it is more advisable to replace the ventilation with reinforced aiming drives, since the effect of the valve in this case will be practically unnoticeable.
	"Sniper" A universal assembly for most tank destroyers and fans of careful play on tanks with insufficient visibility, long aiming and reloading, such as T34, KV-1S, ARL44 and others.
	"Rapid Shooter" This assembly is suitable for tanks and tank destroyers with high visibility and fast aiming. For example, Tortoise, JagdTiger 8.8, Comet and others.
	"Artilleryman" Standard assembly for self-propelled guns. For large, high-level self-propelled guns, the network should be replaced with optics (sometimes it helps at the end of the battle) or a liner (it saves a little from splashing and ramming by inexperienced fireflies).
	"Firefly" Standard assembly for a firefly that alternates active light with passive light. To place more emphasis on passive light, ventilation can be replaced with a camouflage net.
	"Sand King" Choice for tanks and tank destroyers of levels 1-5.

• For a beginner: equipment is expensive and at the beginning of the game there are not enough credits for it. This is a normal situation. In a few evenings of play you can reach level 5. Tanks and tank destroyers at this level are highly profitable, so it makes sense to stick with them and farm credits. Purchasing a standard set (Stereo Tube+Camouflage Net+Tool Box) will make it easier for you to continue playing.
• The game regularly holds promotions, including 50% discounts on all equipment. During promotions, purchase equipment for future use, this allows you to save huge amounts of money.
• Remember to remove the equipment before selling the equipment.
• Please note that there are two types of Stabilizer and Wet Ammo, Liner and Ventilation - three, Rammer - four, and Springs - twenty! When purchasing equipment through a store, be careful to make sure you are buying what you need.
• Remove equipment from machines you don't play on. It will cost less than buying a new one.
• The use of ventilation without the crew's brotherhood is not recommended. The increase is too small.
• Reinforced springs and their analogues do not affect the driving performance of the combat vehicle.

1 year ago

Tell me, I watched the video, T71A, camouflage is 100% upgraded out of 3 people, only two of them, the commander is not upgraded at all, he doesn’t even have the camouflage skill, and the tank itself doesn’t have the camouflage itself. Tell me how it works? Why buy a disguise if it works that way? Why is the entire crew not trained in camouflage, and the author of the video is working on the camouflage? Shouldn’t the commander also be trained in camouflage? Here I have a KB 85 tank, 100% experience leveling for the entire crew. I upgraded everyone's camouflage to 52%, bought a camouflage net, and installed it. But in the end it doesn't work at all. They see me from a distance of 500 meters and they make fun of me as much as they can. What's the catch? why is that? Why does it work for others at least for some distance, but for me it doesn’t work at all. People don’t even have a camouflage net on their tank, but it works for them. They just put camouflage on the tank and all of them
not visible from a distance of up to 400 meters.