Special cue crossword puzzle 3 letters. Cue. Russian billiards. Large illustrated encyclopedia. Golden League cues and...
Only a cue made by the hands of a professional craftsman and a well-chosen cue will help you feel confident and comfortable at the billiard table and improve your skills in the game. A personal cue, the parameters of which fully correspond to your physiological characteristics, will save you from tedious adaptation to common club cues, which sometimes do not meet the basic standards of gaming cues. Having your own cue is important not only for athletes, but also for fans of billiards at any level.
A quality cue does not have to cost a lot of money. When you decide on the amount that you decide to spend on purchasing a cue, it’s time to find out what you should first of all pay attention to when choosing your tool.
Firstly, for the length of the cue, which corresponds to the standards of Russian billiards 150-160 cm. To determine the ideal length of your cue, we recommend following the so-called “lip principle”: place the cue on the floor parallel to your body and make sure that the cue sticker is with you at the level of the mouth.
Secondly, it is important to choose the right weight of the cue: it should be 2.5 times the weight of the ball for Russian billiards (280 g), i.e. The cue should weigh 680 - 720 g. Determine the weight of your cue yourself based on the level of your game: the more professional your approach to playing billiards, the lighter the cue you can afford. Pay attention to the balance - the place along the cue where the cue maintains balance in a horizontal position. The balance is measured from the thick edge of the turnik and for a Russian pyramid, as a rule, is 44 - 50 cm. The balance of the cue varies depending on your preferences in the discipline of the game, on your physiological characteristics.
The cue should also be mathematically straight and have the least amount of vibration after impact. You can check the straightness of the cue by placing the cue with the shaft on the cloth and the turnbuckle on the side and rolling it. To check if the cue is vibrating, take a test hit on the ball.
In a quality cue, the diameters of its parts must also be strictly maintained. Thus, the thickness of the base of the turnstile does not exceed 27-30 mm, the diameter of the twisting area is 18-20 mm. The diameter of the shaft end is a special issue. For beginners in billiards, it is better to choose a thicker sticker (12.5-13 mm), for “billiard gurus” a thin sticker is needed, in the range of 11.5 - 12.5 mm: it will allow you to perform a wide range of filigree shots in the game.
Be sure to carefully examine the structure of the wood itself from which the cue is made. We recommend paying special attention to the shaft material. A high-quality hornbeam for a pyramid cue goes through natural drying stages for at least three years. Its structure is absolutely straight, rectilinear layers, and not alternating obliquely, layers - evidence of high wood harvesting technologies. A glued shaft with an insert made of composite materials (carbon or fiberglass) is an expensive pleasure. This firing pin manufacturing technology makes it possible to increase both the rigidity and elasticity of the cue, but is not found in budget models. A good master knows that a high-quality “impact” hornbeam is the key to a professional cue.
An important part of the cue is the twist, because the more firmly the dismountable parts of the cue are connected, the more accurate its alignment. An ideal twist is made not from plastic, but from light metals and alloys. The most attractive part of the cue is the turnip. Here the master can allow himself a flight of fancy: various types of wood, a wide palette of cuts, special decor of expensive models, inlays, windings. The higher the density of the wood (ebony, wenge, macassar, masaranduba, rosewood, cocobolo), the better game with such a cue. But for the entry level, less dense species such as amaranth, laywood, padauk and others are also suitable for you.
A cue is a billiard accessory used to hit the cue ball. Each class of billiard games has its own, very specific type of cue of the appropriate size and weight. There are cues for pool, snooker, carom and Russian billiards. Just like the balls, cues for playing Russian billiards are longer and heavier than their counterparts. Table 2 shows the recommended cue parameters.
Any cue must be absolutely straight and well balanced. It should not “dampen” the blow and distort the trajectory of the ball. Solid cues are valued, but the most common are collapsible cues consisting of two, three and four parts. First of all, this is due to the convenience of their transportation. Although solid cues can be folded into special cases (tubes) and find a place for them in cars and luggage compartments of trains and airplanes. However, this is more problematic, especially when traveling by air. It is prohibited to transport them as hand luggage, and it is always undesirable to check a cue in your luggage. In addition, and this is the most important thing, a composite cue is not inferior in quality to a solid one.
| Kyiv parameters | Type of billiards | |||
| Russian | Pool | Snooker | Cannon | |
| Length, mm | 1500–1600 | 1460–1520 | 1400–1450 | 1350–1500 |
| Weight, g | 680–710 | 500–560 | 450–480 | 480–520 |
| Base diameter, mm | 28–30 | 25–28 | 25–28 | 25–28 |
| Sticker diameter, mm | from 12 to 14 | from 11 to 13 | from 11 to 13 | from 11 to 13 |
| Balance point, mm from bottom | 420–450 | 390–500 | 390–500 | 390–500 |
Modern billiard cue conditionally divided into two parts:
A) top part called differently - “shaft”, “feather”, “striker”, but it would still be more correct to call it official English word- “shaft”;
b) the lower, thicker part - “turnip”.
The shaft consists of a sticker, a tip (or sleeve, cup) and the shaft itself (shaft), which has the shape of a cone. The turniac consists of a crown (forearm), a winding (handle), a protective cup, a bumper and a balancing weight. The collapsible cue is equipped with a threaded connection unit (twist). The cue string can be decorated with ornaments or inlays. However, many believe that inlay disrupts the structure of the wood, thereby shortening the life of the cue.
Each detail of the cue performs its own special function. Let's start with the sticker.
The sticker plays a big role when performing difficult shots. They differ in elasticity, softness, material and method of attachment to the tip. The main purpose of the sticker is to create friction between the cue and the ball at the moment of impact. There is an interesting legend that tells how the sticker itself was invented. Its inventor is considered to be the Frenchman Francois Mengo. According to one version, when he was serving his sentence in prison, he was given the opportunity to practice playing billiards. And one day, annoyed by an unsuccessful blow, Captain Mengo rubbed the end of the cue against the wall of the chamber, covered with lime. It stuck to the cue, and it became easy to twist the ball, forcing it, for example, to roll back. According to another version, the wounded Mengo, in a tavern during a friendly feast, kicked a billiard ball with a crutch as a joke. He rolled forward and then came back a little. The effect made an indelible impression on the future inventor. Having examined the crutch, he found a piece of soft clay stuck to it. It was inconvenient and expensive to dip the cue into clay every time, so after experimenting, he decided to use leather. The merit of Captain Mengo lies not only in the invention of the sticker, but also in the development of the theoretical aspects of the game. He is also the author of the first billiard bestseller: “The Noble Game of Billiards. Incredible and excellent blows, which aroused the admiration of most of the sovereigns of Europe, set forth by M. Mengo, a former infantry captain in the service of France.” Under such a long title, in the style of the time, this book appeared in France in 1827. It described about 40 blows, many of them in an arc, which, of course, were something incredible for that time. Today this publication is the most expensive book on billiards, since only a few copies have survived to this day. In 1828 the book was republished in Belgium.
“A CUE IS A STICK, MADE IN A KNOWN METHOD, FOR PLAYING BILLIARDS,” - this is how A.I. Leman defined the main “weapon” of a billiards player back in 1885. Since then, of course, a lot has changed: the design itself, manufacturing technology, materials, but the cue is still one of the main factors determining the quality of the game.
The material for the sticker is deer, buffalo, elk, and bison leather. Their production uses complex technology of soaking and dressing the skin. There are also multi-layer stickers that consist of different types of leather, which allows you to combine seemingly incompatible qualities - hardness at the edges and elasticity in the center.
Stickers are selected individually, depending on who likes what. Some players prefer softer, thinner stickers with a "rough" surface, others use stickers that are 5mm thick or more. Again, this depends on the playstyle and tastes of the player himself. It is believed that a hard sticker is more difficult to play with: it is intended mainly for professionals. Its name itself speaks about this - “Professional”. Beginner players are recommended to use soft stickers, since a soft sticker “forgives” mistakes, in particular, it practically eliminates kicking.
The diameter of the sticker must exactly match the diameter of the thin end of the shaft and, accordingly, the tip. A sticker with a larger diameter makes it easier to perform complex shots - back pull, side kick, roll-up, etc., but with a thick sticker it is more difficult to aim. And vice versa - with a sticker of small diameter it is easier to aim, but more difficult to perform complex shots.
The quality of the sticker is checked by how it holds the chalk when struck and how long it does not get dirty, i.e., it does not become slippery. A good sticker will hold chalk for 5 to 10 strokes.
The tip (bushing) is attached to the thin end of the shaft and prevents it from splitting during strong impacts. The tip allows you to protect the cue from shortening when replacing the sticker. Various materials are used for tips - wood, ivory, plastic, brass, bronze. The elasticity of the tip determines how the interaction between the cue and the ball occurs during impact. It is believed that the inelastic and rigid tip increases the deviation of the cue ball from the line of motion of the cue during side shots.
The length of the tip can be from 5 to 50 mm. The length of the tip is not significant for the game. The attachment of the tip to the cue shaft can be threaded or pinned, but in any case it is glued to increase the tightness of the connection. On some handmade cues, the sticker may adhere directly to the thin end of the shaft. However, to replace it, a small part of the shaft is cut off in a special device.
The shaft (shaft) is the main working part of the cue. When the ball is hit, it is the ball that accumulates energy, allowing it to increase the speed of the impact. Moderate flexibility of the shaft allows for longer contact with the ball during spin shots.
The cue shaft was traditionally made from the core of a tree trunk (one cue from one tree). Modern production technology does not always adhere to this rule. Valuable tree species are used in production. It can be ash, maple, white beech, rosewood, hornbeam, linden, etc. The wood is pre-dried and cured using a special technology. The shaft has the shape of a cone, smoothly transitioning from the sticker to the turnstile. The cone can be almost straight, slightly curved (barrel-shaped). The classic shape of the Russian cue shaft approaches a straight, slightly curved cone, while the American cue maintains a constant thickness over 15–45 cm from the sticker.
The gluing separates the shaft from the turnik functionally and, in addition, is a decoration of the billiard cue. It is made from soft wood of rare varieties (ebony, lemon, cherry, rosewood, hornbeam, Canadian maple, wild pear, etc.) using the dovetail technology. The gluing separates the physically different shaft and turnik, dampens vibrations that occur during impact, and also increases the strength of the cue and reduces the likelihood of bending as a result of changes in temperature and humidity. The gluing length is usually at least 20 cm.
The joint (twist) is designed to connect parts of a collapsible cue and can be made of wood, plastic and various metals and alloys. The joint must ensure the tightness of the connection and the accuracy of the cue's alignment. A clean and precise twist unscrews gently, without vibration or deviation of the turnik from the cue axis. It is believed that twist has a fairly significant impact on both the “feel of impact” and the playing qualities of the cue.
The crown is the front part of the turnik, often the most decorated part of the cue. This aesthetically attractive part of the cue is made with many types of inlays and ornaments, which gives it uniqueness and individuality.
The handle is designed to create a confident grip on the cue without the use of significant effort and regardless of the condition of the player’s hands. It allows you to quickly and accurately determine the usual place of the turn for your fingers, and not “catch” the balance when preparing each blow. The handle can be made with a winding. Russian cues were made without a winding, but its convenience is now not denied, and in stores you can find a winding made in the form of a tube of elastic material 20–30 cm long and with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the turnik.
The cup performs a protective function and protects the lower end of the cue from splitting and mechanical damage. The materials can be any, and their choice mainly depends on the overall design style of the cue.
The bumper also protects the cue from damage, sharp impacts and contamination when the bottom of the cue comes into contact with the floor or other random objects. The material for making the bumper is dense elastic rubber.
The weight is designed for precise balancing of the cue. For the load, a lead rod is usually used, fixed inside the turnip at a certain distance from the bottom. It is believed that the balance point should be at a distance of 42–45 cm from the lower end of the cue. However, this indicator is also individual and depends on the height and grip style of the player, as well as the length and purpose of the cue.
There are also so-called special cues. For example, to play pool, athletes use two cues: a regular game cue and a so-called “robber” cue. As the name suggests, the robber cue is designed for breaking the pyramid, as well as for performing vertical “mass” shots. To do this, the cue is equipped with a second twist, located closer to the base and allowing you to “shorten” the cue if necessary. This cue is heavier than a regular one and has a thicker shaft with a larger diameter sticker.
Carbon fiber has long been used for the production of various sports equipment (for example, skiing, tennis, pole vaulting). Modern technology makes it possible to produce carbon fiber cues. They have a number of advantages (such cues have almost perfect axial symmetry and radial uniformity, complete independence from humidity and temperature, thereby maintaining flexibility and elasticity with the exception of the possibility of bending the cue, high strength), and yet in billiards most athletes use cues that traditionally made from wood. It's not just about the conservatism of this sport. Playing with a carbon fiber cue requires “relearning” and getting used to this instrument. This cue gives a completely different “feeling” of hitting, radically different from the usual playing with a wooden cue.
Choosing the right cue is not easy. Here you need specialist advice.
However, it should be borne in mind that a good cue is only good at good hands. Even the most perfect cue cannot compensate for gross flaws in technique. Therefore, a beginner playing billiards should focus his efforts not on finding the “ideal” cue, but on making the “ideal” shot.
Triangle.
An equilateral triangle is used to install the balls in the pyramid. The size of the sides of the triangle depends on the size of the balls. Typically, for a Russian pyramid, the side size of a triangle is 38 cm. Triangles are made either of wood or plastic. Both are suitable. Wooden triangles are made differently by different manufacturers. The difference is both in the material and in the method of gluing the sides of the triangle. The highest quality, practical and durable triangles are those made from birch or oak using a complex gluing pattern.
The bridge (machine) makes it easier to aim and hit a ball that is difficult to reach. The machine is a cast (copper, brass or PVC) structure with recesses (guides) for the cue. Previously, this structure was made of wood.
Many billiard masters treat this billiard equipment somewhat inadequately. They manage without him. But this is explained by the fact that they have perfectly trained their left hand and have mastered the blow from behind the back (“through sciatica” or “with a pistol”). For a novice billiard player, a bridge-machine is, of course, a good assistant, just like for a young soldier a machine on which he is taught how to correctly aim a weapon at a target. In addition, the bridge is like a continuation of the left hand, which is usually placed under the cue to apply a rest (the so-called wrist rest).
Shelves for balls and cues come in various designs and are usually located on the walls of the billiard room. Their designs depend on the tastes of the owners, as well as on the capabilities of the room where the billiards are installed. The balls are stacked on shelves during the game. Cues are usually stored on a shelf permanently. Between the shelves for balls there can be a writing board. It is also used to record the start and end times of the game, as well as to count points in a number of billiard games.
By their design, Kievits differ in that they can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted.
Billiard chalk. There are special requirements for chalk. It can be hard or soft. Not all chalk is good. Good chalk is hard and fine-grained. Previously, chalking was done with ordinary white chalk, and not only the sticker was chalked, but also the thin end of the shaft, as well as the support arm. Imagine how much chalk spilled onto the table! Modern stickers hold chalk well, the thin end of the shaft is covered with special fiberglass, and in addition, special gloves have been produced a long time ago. All this together eliminates the possibility of kicking and ensures that little chalk gets onto the billiard cloth. But it's not only that. The cue ball can be given rotation with a certain degree of certainty only if the sticker is well marked. It is recommended to do this before each blow.
A few words about how to chalk. You need to move the chalk along the sticker from its edges to the center, as if sharpening its working edge, and not screw it into the chalk. That is why there should be no depression in the chalk, but only a slight slope.
Lamp. The accuracy of the shot and the effectiveness of the game largely depend on how professionally the lighting of the billiard table is made. Conventional lamps do not provide the required effect and do not protect the eyesight of athletes. A special lamp should hang above the billiard table, which provides diffused light over the entire surface playing field so that the balls do not cast long and sharp shadows. In addition, the lamp must be at a certain height so that it does not interfere with the game and the light does not get into the players' eyes.
Modern manufacturers produce various lamps and lamps (three- and four-arm), with a distance between the centers of the outer lamps from 98 to 214 cm, a lampshade diameter of 35–45 cm, with green, red, blue lampshades and light or golden rods. The illumination of the working surface created by the lamp must be at least 100 lux (for a 12-foot table, the total lamp power should be about 450 W, and for a 10-foot table - about 350 W).
As you can see, all the parts and accessories of billiard equipment are connected to one another, and in the absence of any of them, playing billiards will not bring either pleasure or achievement.
This text is an introductory fragment.; is a wooden stick used to push balls across a billiard table.
All serious players prefer to have personal cues rather than use “sticks” from billiard halls. The correct cue for the Russian pyramid should be 158-160 cm long. For non-athletes, sellers advise choosing it according to height - the sticker of the cue, placed with a “horizontal bar” (thick end) on the floor, should be in the area between the player’s chin and nose (for American pool - 15-20 cm lower). The weight of a Russian pyramid cue can reach 720-750 g, although sports versions weigh no more than 650 g.
Modern cue
Cue device
Modern cues are no longer as simple as they were when they appeared. If initially the cue was solid, now almost all cues consist of two halves (less often three parts), twisted together (popularly they are also called “twists” (after the name of the element of the cue that holds both halves together). The lower part of the cue called turnyak(sometimes a horizontal bar). It is a heavy cue base, consisting of a lead filling, “sheathed” with wood; on the bottom of the turnyak there is a rubber pad - a thrust pad that protects the cue from damage and dirt when it hits the floor. The upper part of the cue - shaft, which ends with a sticker (heel) made of pressed and multi-layered leather. The sticker is the part of the cue that directly contacts the balls upon impact. Modern cues are rightfully works of art, in the manufacture of which precious metals and rare wood species can be used. The density of the impact depends on the type of wood, which directly affects the quality of the impact. The best types of wood for playing billiards are considered to be ebony, macassar, rosewood, cocobolo, etc.
There are two main cue decoration patterns - Viennese cut and crown. If the first one is quite simple and common, then not every master can make the second one for the appropriate remuneration. The so-called “Tulip” can be used as a variety
Notes
Literature
- // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: In 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional ones). - St. Petersburg. , 1890-1907.
Links
see also
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See what “cue (billiards)” is in other dictionaries:
Cue: may mean: Cue (billiards) a stick for playing billiards. Kiy (prince) the legendary prince of the Polyans, founder of Kyiv. Kiy (island) island in the Onega Bay of the White Sea, Russia. Kiy (islands) two islands (Big Kiy and Small... ... Wikipedia
Or billiard (French billard, from Italian biglia ball) is a large, oblong, quadrangle (parallelogram) with edges (sides) such that the length is 1/3 greater than the width. B. is used for playing with bone (ivory) balls,... ... Encyclopedia of Brockhaus and Efron
cue- I, m. la queue au billard. In the game of billiards, a long, straight wooden stick that becomes thinner at one end. BAS 1. This meaning appeared as a result of contamination with fr. la queue. ES. Alone in calculations, armed with a blunt cue, He’s on... ... Historical Dictionary of Gallicisms of the Russian Language
cue- KIY, cue and cue, mn cues, cues, m An object for the game, a long straight stick, tapering towards the end, with which balls are driven into mesh bags (pockets) when playing billiards. Zurin looked at his watch, put down his cue and announced to me that I had lost a hundred rubles (P.) ... Explanatory dictionary of Russian nouns
cue- Billiards tayagi... Tatar telen anlatmaly suzlege
Or Billiard (French billard, from Italian biglia ball) is the name of a large, oblong, quadrangular (parallelogram) table with edges (sides), the length of which is ⅓ greater than the width. B. is used for playing with bone (ivory) balls,... ...
Billiard balls for playing pool ... Wikipedia
BILLIARDS.- From fr. language in the beginning. XVIII century Fr. billard (“a cue table for playing billiards”) is a suffixal derivative of noun. bille "wooden block, ball" ... Sitnikov's etymological dictionary
Encyclopedic Dictionary F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Efron
A stick for playing billiards, about 2 arshins long. It is always made in pieces so that it does not warp. The heavy end of the K. is filled with lead (turnstile), and there is a leather sticker on the thin end. The lungs of K. produce the most exquisite blows, hard game rougher. Before… … Encyclopedic Dictionary F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Efron
Books
- Russia. Unknown billiards, Ratoziy Nikolay Vasilievich, Ivanov Evgeny Borisovich. Where did the game of bowls originate? How did it get to Europe and then to Russia? What are the features of Russian billiards? How kings, state leaders, army representatives and... played billiards
It cannot be said that to this day the theory of the movement of billiard balls has been developed in detail and exhaustively.
When studying physics, everyone was faced with the consideration of the action of forces when elastic bodies collide on a plane; The relationships between the impact force of bodies and their speed after impact are also known. However, all this variety of physical laws in relation to the technique of billiard shots is taken into account only in a single special case - for balls with forward motion.
When playing billiards, along with linear movement, there are also several types of rotation, and most often the translational movement of the balls is combined with their rotation. Similar rotation can occur around a parallel plane of the table horizontal axis, as well as around axes inclined to the table plane. Therefore, the explanation of the movement of billiard balls at different shots arises only as a result of many years of practice by the best masters, billiard professionals.
In the 19th century, Gustave Gaspard Coriolis published the book “Mathematical Theory of the Phenomena of the Billiard Game.” This mechanical scientist became famous in the history of science as the founder of the theory of relative motion of bodies in connection with forces and accelerations that can act in a rotating frame of reference.
Coriolis looked at billiards through the eyes of a mathematician and a mechanic. Using examples from billiards, he composed problems about the movement of balls on a rough plane and himself gave solutions to these problems. He substantiated the possibility of the return motion of the ball, which was later put into practice by high-class professionals.
This was the favorite work of Coriolis, an academician of the Paris Academy of Sciences. In the preface to the book, he wrote: “I thought that people who know theoretical mechanics ... would be interested in the explanations of all the original phenomena that can be observed during the movement of billiard balls. After I observed these phenomena in the game of the famous Mango, I tried to give a mathematical calculation for them.”
Coriolis was most fascinated by the elegance and wit of the analysis and graphical methods of calculating the forces, accelerations and velocities that are obtained as a result of hitting a ball with a cue, as well as during the mutual collision of balls with each other and at the moment of reflection of the ball from the billiard board. The book is literally replete with formulas from the theory of probability and the theory of limits, differential and integral calculus. Naturally, Coriolis did not even set out to give any practical recommendations to fans of billiards, so his work may be of interest only to scientists involved in rigid body dynamics.
The theory of billiards is necessary in order to learn how to play correctly. Talent, experience, natural observation and even intuition can tell you how to play the game correctly, and yet even with such experienced professionals, it is quite possible for less naturally gifted players who practice billiards less often, but who know fundamental theoretical foundations that explain the consequences of a particular strike. Of course, one can recall the famous phrase: “Theory is dead, my friend, but the tree of life is lushly green,” but nevertheless, theory is able to compensate for the lack of regular training, instantly assess the situation on the table in the intervals between blows and act based on accurate calculations. Thus, the chances of a pure theorist and a pure practitioner are almost equal.
Hitting with a machineBy the way, meaningful and therefore sophisticated art looks more spectacular as opposed to a straightforward bet on winning. The most interesting games have always been considered to be those where two opponents with different temperaments and playing styles met.
Before setting out the basics of the billiard game, you should decide: the ball that is hit with a cue is called the “cue ball”, or “your” ball; the balls into which the cue ball is directed are “foreign”, aiming, or played.
The technique of playing pocket billiards requires the ability to correctly hit the cue ball with a cue, as well as make accurate straight and cut shots with the cue ball on “other people’s” balls, play side balls, master a doublet, win back and exit.
Knowledge of the basics of the technique must come before the practice of the game, since mastering the features and elements of the theory is necessary for the player. On the contrary, with poor knowledge of technical techniques, the shot becomes uneven and even unstable, which leads to loss or damage to expensive billiard cloth.
Each billiard player undoubtedly has his own unique style, and his qualifications, experience and class have absolutely no meaning here. The individual style of a billiard player is called “your own shot.” And even though there are a huge number of strikes, according to ancient tradition they are divided into beautiful and commercial.
Players with commercial strikes in pre-revolutionary times were called industrialists. Their strike was characterized by evenness and correctness. This is probably a hit on the balls placed in the pockets. By nature, such a player does not like risk, uses all possible supports, and he himself can make it purely by accident. This is a rational and extremely calculating manner of play. It is effective, but, without a doubt, too dry. There is no bold action, no beauty, no dynamism.
Players of a different kind were called artists. They played beautiful shots, played difficult balls along with stands and were not afraid to take risks. However, every sure shot of such a player gave the audience true pleasure.
As for the novice player, the best option for him would be to combine precise calculation with elements of artistry. This is the most harmonious tactic.
Impact theory
It is very difficult to perfect an accurate and beautiful strike. Some people spend years mastering cue handling techniques. Every novice player should know that a one-time hit with a cue actually includes two hits: with the cue on the cue ball and the cue ball on “other people’s” balls.
Hitting the cue ball with a cue
The cue hitting the cue ball can be different. It depends on the point on the surface of the ball that the player wants to hit. In fact, there are many similar points on the ball, but only nine of them are considered the most important. They are located on the side of the cue ball facing the player, and a shot at each of these points has its own name.
From all of the above it does not at all follow that blows need to be struck exclusively at one of the nine named points. If, for example, a situation arises on the board that before rolling the cue ball is located from the object ball at a distance of 0.5 to 2.5 cm, then you should hit a point located approximately in the middle, between the center of the cue ball and its upper edge. Having hit the ball being played, the cue ball will certainly lose some of the energy it received, but will acquire rotation around a horizontal axis, and as a result, its movement will last much longer than if it had not received such rotation.
Main points of hitting the cueIn the event that the cue ball is at a distance of 0.2–0.5 cm from the object ball, then, having made the cue strike described above, the player will not be able to roll up, because the distance is so small that the ball simply does not have time to receive the rotation of the required force .
It is necessary to carefully study the situation on the board before finally choosing the point of impact. You should always consider how the cue ball is positioned relative to the ball being played, especially if the player wants to make a draw or side shots.
Klapstoss
Klapstos is a strike with a cue ball in the center of the cue ball. This blow is considered the main one and makes it possible to place the ball for sure. If the ball is hit exactly in the center in a plane parallel to the plane of the table, then in this case the cue ball will receive only forward movement. If the cue ball in this case collides with another ball, it will definitely stop in place. Someone else's ball will fly off in the direction intended by the player. Such a blow is not only useful, but also beautiful in itself. Klapstos should be performed at a close distance from the ball being played; at a long distance it is too difficult and therefore loses its meaning.
KlapstossHowever, it is even more difficult to make a klapstos if the cue ball stands up tightly against the board from which the athlete is going to play. If such a situation arises on the table, then the blow will look unusual: the player lifts up the thick end of the cue so that with its sticker it touches the point as close as possible to the center of the ball.
Klapstos is the most important shot in billiard technique. First of all, the player should master hitting the center of the ball and only then move on to practicing more complex shots.
In addition to the klapstos, there are eight more blows with the cue ball, which are called effe, or, in other words, twisted blows. With this type of impact, the ball also rotates simultaneously with its forward movement.
In this case, due to lateral rotation, the ball deviates slightly to the side from the straight line.
Rolling is a hit with a cue at the top point of the ball, which is located strictly above its center. Often in the game a situation arises when a player needs to send “his” ball forward after colliding with the playing ball. To roll up, you need to strike a long, long blow to the top of “your” ball, and the cue ball receives not only direction from the player, but also rotation. After colliding with an “alien” ball, the cue ball will pause for a second and then move forward. Beginners especially like the roll because it is not difficult. Players find that the shot and aim are particularly accurate when rolling.
A quickdraw is a blow with a cue to the lowest point of the ball, located strictly below the center. Sometimes it is necessary that, when faced with “someone else’s” ball, “your” ball moves back, and for this you should hit the lower part of “your” ball with a cue. Then, along with the forward movement as opposed to the rolling strike, the cue ball will begin to rotate in reverse side around a horizontal axis and, having lingered in place for a second after the impact, will roll back.
GuyThe draw is the most difficult, but also the most beautiful blow. With it, the softness of the blow and its instantaneity are of great importance. In addition, the condition of the sticker is of no small importance. Its rough surface should be rounded, elastic and well chalked. It is this surface that will make it possible to execute a strike correctly and accurately.
Side impacts
As a result of the above three strikes, the cue ball either stops or moves forward or backward after colliding with someone else’s ball. Klapstos, roll and pull are relatively simple strokes. If it is required that the cue ball rolls to the left or right after colliding with the ball being played, in this case, more complex shots are used - side or French shots.
For the first time, such shots began to be used in carom games on pocketless French billiards, and they became widespread after leather stickers appeared on cues. Side kicks make it possible to play back and exit - this is their main advantage.
Right side
A right side kick is a shot to the middle point located on the right side of the cue ball. As a result of performing the right side kick, “your” ball, in addition to forward movement, begins to rotate around a vertical axis that passes through the center of the ball. The ball rotates counterclockwise, and after a collision with someone else’s ball, it spins like a top and, carried away by this rotation, will only go to the right.
Left side
A left side kick is a blow with a cue to the middle point located on the left side of “your” ball. This strike works similarly to the one described above. The only difference is that “your” ball begins to rotate clockwise. After colliding with the ball being played, the cue ball will go exclusively to the left.
Upper right side
The upper right side kick is a blow with a cue to the top point, which is located on the right side of “your” ball. Typically, such shots are performed by players who plan for the cue ball to roll forward and to the right when it hits the ball being played.
The blow should be applied very smoothly and slowly. As a result of the execution of the upper right side kick, the ball receives three types of movement: forward movement, accelerated movement, or roll-up, and a deviation to the right, barely noticeable to the naked eye, due to the lateral rotation of the ball around a vertical axis, called effe.
Upper left side panel
The upper left side kick is a strike with a cue at the top point located on the left side of “your” ball. In this case, the cue ball behaves similarly to the option described above, but moves forward and to the left.
Bottom right side
Lower right side kick - strike with the cue at the lowest point, which is located on the right side of the cue ball. This blow allows the cue ball to go back and to the right after colliding with an “alien” ball.
Bottom left side panel
Lower left side kick - strike with the cue at the lowest point, which is located on the left side of the cue ball. This blow allows the cue ball to go back and to the left after colliding with an “alien” ball.
Hitting object balls with “your” ball
When hitting object balls, the first thing you need to do is determine your true aiming point.
Imagine a line that runs through the middle of the pocket to the center of the object ball. The point located on the opposite side of the pocket is considered the true aiming point, since it is precisely there that the balls must collide in order for the ball being played to end up in the pocket.
Finding the true point can be made easier. Experienced players “cue”, that is, they first aim at the pocket with one of the balls being played, after which they begin to aim “their” at the true point they have determined. This is what beginners usually do. Professionals can determine the aiming point at a glance and deliver the right blow.
However, in order to put the ball in the pocket, it is not enough just to correctly determine the aiming point. The ball still needs to be hit correctly. The player concentrates, thinking only about the upcoming strike, imagining all possible trajectories of movement of the cue ball and the ball being played, after which he makes several targeted strokes, and then strikes the cue at the selected point.
True aim pointHowever, we should not forget: there should not be too many targeted strokes - 2-4 will be enough. If you aim for a long time, the likelihood that the ball will fall into the pocket decreases significantly. Similar effect is purely psychological in nature: the player can bring his attention to maximum only for a few seconds. This is the culminating moment in aiming, and if it is artificially prolonged, then the relaxation of muscles and vision will occur even before the blow follows. As a result, a mistake is guaranteed.
Types of direct blows: a – into the corner; b – middle; c – from the side to the cornerThe most common types of cue ball hits on object balls are a straight shot, a cut shot, a shot on the side balls, a shot on balls that are reflected by the sides, including a doublet, a triplet, a trouban, a quatbane, a turnbuckle, a carom shot, a ball shot, a through shot.
Direct hit
A straight shot is a shot in which a straight ball is played, that is, a ball that stands on the line connecting the pocket and the cue ball. One of the most difficult is considered to be a completely straight blow, made at a considerable distance between the balls.
When performing a direct strike, you should pay special attention to the strength and type of strike with the cue. In this case, a number of circumstances must be taken into account.
A straight ball is easiest to play with a roll. It is more difficult to do it with a clapper and even more difficult with a quickdraw. The type and force of the cue strike in each specific case depend on the relative position of the balls and the need to play back or exit.
Usually, direct blows are struck strongly and energetically into the corner pockets, and with a weak and soft blow into the middle pockets. With such a soft hit, even a minor error in aiming does not prevent the ball from reflecting off the jaws of the middle pocket once or twice and nevertheless falling into the net.
The most difficult type of direct kick is a kick from the side into the corner. In this case, it is most advisable to hit the cue ball with a cue roll.
Slashed blow
Cutting is playing balls located outside the line that connects the centers of the cue ball and the pocket. When cutting, the aim is easier to determine than for straight balls, especially since there are always many more balls in billiards, which are better to cut than to play straight. However, when cutting, it is more difficult to determine where the cue ball stops after impact.
It is believed that it is worth cutting in cases where the aiming point is clearly visible. If the balls are at an angle of 90°, then this is the limit for cutting. That’s what it’s called – the ultimate.
Cutting: a – extreme; b – excessiveBut even if the angle is slightly less than 90° and the aiming point is not visible, you can still play a cut ball. Back in the 19th century, when analyzing the French side kick, they concluded that with a cue ball that has received two types of movement, it is quite possible to perform excessive cutting, which, at first glance, does not seem possible. However, if the cue ball is hit with a steep “left side”, along with the forward movement it will also receive a clockwise rotation, hit someone else’s ball and “screw” it into the pocket. This happens because the ball being played, at the moment of contact with the cue ball, receives from it, in addition to translational, also such a rotational movement that allows it to roll towards the pocket and “screw” into it.
If it is necessary to make an excessive cut into the pocket to the right side of the player, the cue ball should be hit with a sharp right edge. The result of the blow in this case will be similar to the previous one.
Hitting the side balls
A ball that is close to the side of the table is called a side ball. It is difficult to play with such a ball, although it would seem that the aim does not pose any difficulty. There are a variety of options for the location of the side balls, and therefore the player must decide for himself what to do in each specific case.
Side ball on short sideIf the side ball is on the short side, it is better to play it with a roll or use a head-on shot, but not too hard. Do not forget that “your” ball should not touch the side.
It is more difficult to place a ball that is close to the long side. Typically, players roll “their” ball so that it then hits the ball being played and the board.
It is probably easiest to play a straight edge ball located near the long edge. In any case, it is very difficult to make a mistake here. The player hits “his” ball with a light clapper.
However, professionals prefer to hit side balls through a ball or several balls. In such a situation, it is almost impossible to make a stand, and the object ball will most likely end up in the pocket.
Side ball along the long sideIn such a game, the law of physics applies, which, when applied to a billiard game, can be formulated as follows.
Straight side ball
Balls along the board into the cornerFirstly, the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection. This applies to simple blows: klapstos, roll-up, quickdraw.
And secondly, the angle of incidence may not always be equal to the angle of reflection if a side kick is performed.
Hitting balls with reflection from the sides of the table
All balls that are reflected by the sides are divided into several types. For example, a hit in which the object ball is reflected from one side is called a doublet. If the ball is reflected from two sides, then it is a triplet, from three sides it is a trouban, from four sides it is a quatban.
The easiest way is to perform a straight doublet. In this case, the aiming ball is located close to the board; and if you mentally draw lines from the cue ball to the object ball, the result will be an isosceles triangle. The object ball should be hit exactly in the center, or, as players say, “on the forehead.”
Straight doubletIt must be remembered that if a player decides to perform a straight double, then the force of the cue strike will be different depending on which pocket he wants to put the ball in - the middle or corner.
If the double goes into the middle pocket, then you should not hit the cue too hard. It is necessary to take into account the fact that if the ball cannot be placed and it only hits the lips of the pocket, then it will roll back close and there will be no obvious support.
If the doublet is performed in the corner, then the cue should be hit hard, since if there is insufficient acceleration imparted to the ball, a trip will inevitably occur.
Playing balls that are located close to the sides or at a short distance from it can be done using a cut doublet.
Such a blow to the technique of execution is much more difficult. If the angle of incidence is not equal to the angle of reflection, then the object ball should be cut, but not hit exactly in the center. Often, the angle of reflection increases compared to the angle of incidence.
Doublet for cuttingWith the help of a cut doublet you can play balls of the highest complexity.
Types of doublet: a – reverse strike; b – reverse screwA croisé, or, in other words, a reverse strike, is considered a type of doublet.
Croise is used if the object ball stands close to the board or is no more than half the width of the table away from it, and at a very obtuse angle.
As a result, the “own” ball will certainly cross the line of fall of the object ball.
It happens that on the gaming table there is such a composition when, during a croise, it is impossible to bring “your” ball back, and then you should use another type of doublet, known as a reverse screw. However, it should be borne in mind that if the blow is on the player’s right side of the billiard table, then “your” ball as a result receives a steep right effect. In this case, the cue ball, colliding with the object ball, ricochets from it and hits the short side. We should not forget that the cue ball also rotates counterclockwise and through this movement goes in the opposite direction, eventually returning to the “home”.
If the blow is on the player’s left side of the billiard table, then “your” ball is hit with a steep left side. These strikes have one undeniable advantage - they give a good return.
Doublets from two (triplet) and three (trouban) sides are usually played for the purpose of reliable wagering. If the ordered object ball ends up in the pocket, the player receives great satisfaction.
The impact from four sides (cutban) is used relatively rarely and only on billiard tables whose sides have very soft rubber.
Shots with balls reflected from the sides: a – triplet; b – trouban; in – katbanDoublets are among the most difficult strokes, but a trained athlete with a good eye usually performs them easily.
Hitting balls deflected by balls
If the game is at a stage when there are still many unplayed balls on the table, it often becomes possible to send “your” or “someone else’s” ball into the pocket so that it bounces off other balls along the way. This type of strike is called a carom. There are countless carom strokes. There are even games according to the rules of which balls are placed in pockets only by carom shots.
Carom to the middle
Carom into the cornerAs a rule, each blow in carom is very beautiful, but the effectiveness of these blows depends on the degree of control the player has with “his” ball.
Ball hit
If two balls are on the same line with the center of the middle or corner pocket and at the same time stand close to each other, then the ball being played goes into the pocket very easily with the help of a ball strike.
Hit the ball into the corner: a – the balls are located close to each other; b – the balls are at some distance from each other If two balls are on the same line with the pocket and at the same time distant from each other, then you can play with the ball, but it is more difficult. If two white balls are not in line with the middle of the pocket, then such a shot is very difficult to execute. In this case, cutting through a ball is preferable.
A through shot is used when two balls are so close that the “own” hits both at the same time. In this case, one of the balls being played can be pocketed.
Cutting through the ballWhen planning to strike such a blow, the athlete must make a fairly careful calculation so that the cue ball does not hit the adjacent ball first, since in this case it will close the blow, and “their” will change direction in an unplanned direction, and the blow will not be successful.
Through kickSpecial Moves
There are several special, complex attacks that are used quite rarely. But if an athlete knows how to effectively perform such a blow, then he can lead tactically the right game and successfully pocket balls sometimes in an almost impossible position. Thus, the athlete demonstrates both the enormous capabilities and beauty of the billiard game.
Special strikes include arc, jump, pistol, apricole, countertouch, and masse.
The arc is one of the varieties of the side French shot, when the ball being played is in the opening of the pocket, and the cue ball is at a far distance from it and, in addition, is also “smeared” with other balls.
In order to pocket the ball in this case, the cue ball should be hit to the left and down (or to the right and down), while giving it a strong rotation around its axis.
In the first case, “your” ball will spin from left to right, and having also received a forward movement to the right from the line that connects the centers of the balls, it will go along a parabola, go around the ball that is interfering with it on the right and direct the stuck ball into the pocket.
DugovikIf the cue ball is hit down to the right, it will spin from right to left, also go in an arc and go around the ball that is interfering with it, but to the left. The blow must be of medium strength so that “your own”, having bypassed the ball, would lose the inertia received from the rectilinear push and roll towards the ball being played. The curvature of the trajectory of the arc along which the cue ball will go depends on the degree of predominance of the tangential force over the central force.
Jump
A jump is a shot in which the cue ball, having jumped over the extra ball that masks the one being played, hits the latter and directs it into the pocket. This kick can be performed in two ways.
In the first method, a strong and drawn-out blow with the cue is made at the bottom of “your own” at an angle of 30°. As a result of such a blow, the cue ball is repelled from the table surface, jumps up, flies over the obstacle ball and rolls in a straight line.
JumpIn the second method, the cue is held in a plane parallel to the plane of the table, the thin end of the cue is brought under the cue ball, it is quickly thrown up and thrown over the ball. This method is less reliable than the first, but very beautiful.
Pistol strike or poke
A pistol hit, or poke, is a type of hit with a cue ball.
The balls on the table can be positioned in such a way that the target ball being played is near the pocket in a very good position, and the cue ball is near the other balls in a position in which it is impossible or impractical to play with a regular shot or with a machine due to the danger of erasing, then There is a chance to hit any of the balls with a cue and earn a fine. In such cases, the blow is delivered with one hand. The cue is taken by the turnik and balanced in the hand. Then they take aim with it and hit the cue ball as if with a poke. To prevent your hand from getting tired while aiming, the thin end of the cue can be placed on the cloth before hitting. Then you should take good aim, raise the cue and hit.
It is interesting that for many strong players, balls that are only suitable for pistol play are, as they say, “dead” balls.
Apricole
The apricole shot can be performed when playing in the pocket of “someone else’s” or “one’s own”. If there is a situation on the table when there are also intermediate balls (they are called “masks”) between the target ball hanging above the pocket and the cue ball, then you should play with the cue ball, which is launched away from the “mask” and reflected by one of the sides.
ApricoleAnother way of playing a “foreign” ball is called apricole because of the lip of the pocket. For example, the game has reached the most crucial moment and is in the last ball. One of the players managed to put the “foreign” ball into the corner pocket and played back in such a way that the cue ball ended up behind the lip of the pocket. The opponent, most likely, should miss and make a stand. However, it is at this moment that a real master can demonstrate his high skill by striking with a sharp right hand. Then the cue ball will be reflected from the side by a “screw”, go to the right and place the ball.
In another version of apricole, “your” ball, having been reflected first from the side, and then from the ball or from the balls, will play into the pocket.
Counter-touch strike
The counter touch is very difficult, especially for those who do not practice it regularly.
The essence of this blow is as follows: after the first collision of the cue ball with the ball being played, the latter, reflected from the side, hits the cue ball again and then falls into the pocket.
Counter-touch strikeThis shot is used when the cue ball and target ball are located close to the pockets and borders. In this case, you should not hit the object ball “on the forehead”, but on its side in such a way as to make an intermediate double with it, after the secondary collision, put it in the pocket, and take the cue ball far back from the pocket.
When performing a counter-touch strike, jewelry technique is needed. The slightest mistake by the player leads to a set-up, and at the most crucial moment of the game – to a loss.
Impact to the masses
The hit to the mass is performed with a cue aimed at the top of the cue ball at an angle almost perpendicular to the surface of the billiards.
This blow is considered very difficult. It is performed mainly by players in carom games. The execution of this blow depends on the size and quality of the balls, so in our case the blow is quite rare.
Our domestic large balls usually have a diameter of 69 to 73 mm, and it is extremely difficult to hit a mass on such balls, while in Western countries they use small balls, with a diameter of 58 to 62 mm and characterized by lightness. You can read more about mass impact in the chapter “Carom Billiards”.
Illegal strikes
Among the prohibited strikes, the most common ones are pushing and pressing.
The push is carried out when the cue ball and the ball being played are close to the board. Some players, trying to place such a ball, do not take the cue off the cue ball when striking, that is, they push the “stranger” into the pocket. Such a ball is not counted. It is taken out of the pocket and placed back on the table.
Pushed through: a – illegal blow; b – allowed strike The second illegal shot - pressing - becomes possible when the cue ball and the ball being played are close to each other near the corner pocket.
If you press the cue ball with a cue, the ball being played will “screw” into the pocket. Such a ball is also not counted, it is taken out of the pocket and returned to the table.
Pressure: a – illegal strike; b – allowed strikeIn the two cases discussed above, it is allowed to play balls only with cut strokes.
A double hit is also prohibited, meaning that while aiming before the main hit, the sticker will touch “its” ball.
Wagering- this is a technical technique that allows “your” ball, after being hit, to move away from the balls being played and stop in a position that is very inconvenient for the opponent’s play.
Proficiency in winning is no less important than the ability to put balls in pockets. However, you should remember that it is very difficult to win a game if you just play back all the time.
They are usually played in cases where the player is not sure that he will be able to place the ball. In this case, it is really better to roleplay. Then the partner will also have to win back, but at the risk of making a stand. When roleplaying, such human qualities as composure and patience are very important.
It happens that in important games a player has to make 4–6 wins in a row. This happens when playing with a strong and serious player. The first one to fail is usually the player who is too emotional and hot-tempered. He plays it off casually and makes the putts.
In addition, roleplaying has one very serious inconvenience. If used frequently, it spoils the player’s aim and the accuracy of the shot when placing balls in the mesh pockets; as they say, it “knocks the player off the cue.”
A partner who is constantly forced to win back, unnoticed by himself, switches to defensive tactics, loses the player’s fighting tone and increases the number of his defeats. Let's look at some commonly used types of roleplaying.
Roleplaying with klapstos
The Klapstos Wager is one of the easiest shots to use when you have a ball to play with. “Own” ball, after hitting the ball standing at the side with the klapstos, itself becomes close to the board.
Roleplaying with klapstosIf the aiming ball is not located right next to the board, then you need to make a small roll, after which “your” ball will come close to the board.
Acting out a doublet with a step back
Roleplaying with a doublet with a step back is the easiest and most frequently used type of wagering. So, in the final stage of the game, especially at the moment when the game is on the last ball, one of the partners, playing a double into the corner, directs the object ball not to the corner, but to the middle of the short side.
Acting out a doublet with a step backIn this case, you can avoid the stand and make it more difficult for your partner to hit.
Playing doublet in the corner
When playing back with a double into the corner, you should not forget that the blow should not be too strong. It is this kind of shot that will allow the object ball, which did not fall into the pocket, to position itself closer to the long side after the shot is completed.
Wagering with a triplet
Wagering triplet used when the line between the balls is almost perpendicular to the long side of the table. When a player decides to play a triple, he does not intend to put the ball down at all costs - he just needs to recoup it reliably. To do this, you need to remove the cue ball away from the center of the table and place it on the short side.
Wagering by negotiator (croisé)
Wagering is enough reliable way wagering, especially when the ball being played is located at a considerable distance close to the board or close to it.
Wagering is negotiableA player who is well aware of the degree of elasticity of the rubber of the side can always return the cue ball to himself on the short side during a cruise. The object ball will be reflected from the long side and will remain in the area of the opposite short side.
Wagering with a simple quickdraw
Wagering with a simple pull is one of the most beautiful and, moreover, effective types of wagering, but it requires absolutely impeccable execution. After being hit by a nearby cue ball, the target ball rolls back.
Wagering with a simple quickdrawThe draw must be performed cleanly and extremely carefully, because if instead the cue ball moves back only a little or a klapstos occurs, an experienced partner will definitely take the opportunity to pocket one of the remaining balls. But constant effective acting out with a quickdraw makes a very strong impression on a partner.
Roleplaying with a thin touch
In the initial stage of the game, it is usually too risky to bring “your” ball out from behind the pyramid. Therefore, the cue ball is usually released with a light, quiet blow so that it touches one of the balls of the pyramid, then reflects off the long side and becomes close to the short side, that is, it acquires a position that is impossible for playing the balls.
This type of wagering is very easy to perform, but you must remember that your partner can just as easily win back in exactly the same way, as a result of which the game will drag on just until all the balls from the pyramid move to the central and distant parts of the table . And if the wagering is inaccurate, the partner can always drive the cue ball to the short side farthest from the pyramid, which will complicate subsequent wagering.
Wagering with a thin touch: a – behind the pyramid; b – through the billiard tableWagering with a thin touch can be carried out through the entire billiards. In this case, the cue ball should not get tangled in the balls or be in a good position for placing the balls, and for this, the wiring must be very careful.
Wagering with a long roll
A long rolling kick often provides an opportunity to recoup. For example, if one ball is visible from behind the pyramid, the cue ball should be thrown with a strong roll into this ball, aiming at the opposite side. But the aiming ball will receive a stronger translational movement than “its own” one, so it will be reflected from the side and go to the area where the balls are concentrated. “Your” ball will remain at the short side.
Wagering with a long rollWagering with countertouch
This type of roleplaying is very beautiful and effective, but requires great skill and skill. It can be used in cases where the target ball is located near the short side, and “your” ball is removed from it at a very significant distance and is located in the middle of the table. This roleplay is performed with a strong rolling blow. The cue ball nails the object ball to the board, and it pushes off from the “stranger” and goes back.
Wagering with countertouchActing out with a subtle cut
This type of roleplay is used quite often when playing “Pyramid” when it is not yet completely broken. At the same time, “your” ball is released so that it barely touches only one of the balls that separated from the pyramid and goes back again. Only a cool-blooded and trained athlete can perform a fine cut well and accurately, placing “his” close to the nearest board.
Acting out with a subtle cutOne of the common variants of this type of wagering is thin-cut wagering with the assignment of a ball. This option can be used when the ball being played is in a position convenient for pocketing.
Wagering for the lip of the pocket
This roleplay is very beautiful and spectacular, but also difficult to perform. To perform it, you need to have very high technique. Winning back the lip of a pocket is done as follows. The cue ball makes a strong, energetic blow to the ball and is placed with a soft draw at the mouth of the nearest corner pocket, slightly pressing against its lip. After such a blow, the partner has practically no opportunity to recoup and is therefore forced to give a fine.
Wagering for the lip of the pocketWagering by placing the cue ball close to the short board
If a situation arises on the gaming table when at least one of the balls being played is tightly adjacent to the short side, and the location of the balls is such that it is not possible to play them into pockets, while the cue ball is located on the side opposite to the side ball, then to win back the cue a strong blow with a quickdraw on “one’s own”, in its lower part. The point of impact and its force will depend on the distance between the cue ball and the ball being played. If there is a large mutual distance and the cue ball is located in the area of the opposite short side, the shot should be made almost to the very bottom of “your” ball. As the distance to the object ball decreases, the impact point on the cue ball should be placed higher and closer to its center. Moreover, when performing this type of wagering, it is necessary to hit the right half of the side ball if the cue ball is located to the right of it, and, conversely, to the left half if the cue ball is located to the left of it.
As a result, the cue ball, having hit the ball being played, with the help of the force given to it by rotation, neutralizes the force of reflection and will stop close to the board, which will make it difficult for the partner to perform the next aimed strike.
How confident laying of balls and confident winning are qualities good player, and a skillfully executed exit testifies to the high skill of the player.
A release is a shot in which the cue ball, having sent one ball into the pocket, ends up in a position to play another ball, and putting it in is not difficult at all. Thus, quitting is the exact opposite of acting out. A player who takes advantage of the exit and can bring this technique to the point of playing several balls in succession acquires an overwhelming advantage over his partner and can quickly finish the game by winning it. However, this technique requires the player to be precise, patient and very careful. It is not so rare to find players who have a well-placed shot and at the same time do not know how to make a good exit.
Laying two balls with an outletThere are a number of simple yield patterns associated with a particular arrangement of balls. For example, if two balls – “8” and “12” – are on stands in the middle, then you should first play the “twelfth” ball with a light roll, as a result of which the cue ball will be reflected from the side and come out under the “eight”.
Another example. “Ten” is located in the right middle, and “five” is located near the starboard corner. In this case, you must first cut the ball with a quiet blow to the middle, then the cue ball will come out under the “five”.
Cutting the “ten” in the middle with the exit under the “five” in the cornerLet's assume that the "twelfth" ball is on the long side, and the "ace" is on the nearest short side. In this case, you should play the “ace” with a blow of medium strength, after which the cue ball will be reflected from the long side and the “twelfth” can be easily placed in the same corner.
Hit the “one” in the direction of the corner with the exit under the “twelfth” in the cornerTwo balls can be placed on stands in opposite middle pockets. In this position, you should, having calculated the force of the blow, cut the “seven” and go under the “five”.
Cutting the “seven” in the middle with the exit under the “five” in the middleThis option is also very common. The “ten” is placed in the corner, and the “eight” stands near the third point. In this case, by calculating a blow of moderate force and playing a stand, you can go straight into the corner without much difficulty.
"Ten" in the corner with an exit under the "eight" in the cornerIt should also be noted that in order to successfully master technical techniques and improve the game, it is necessary to analyze both your own and others’ mistakes and mistakes and try to avoid them in subsequent games.
In order to develop the ability before a shot to quickly determine the entire logical relationship between putting balls in pockets, winning back and getting out, and, most importantly, to successfully execute the intended shots, you must first of all master the techniques of confidently handling “your” ball.
In conclusion, it should be noted that you need to play simply and wisely, trying to avoid excessive excitement. Do not forget also that the most attractive and enjoyable is the sporting manner of play, that is, when the players do not greedily chase balls, but at the same time do not abuse wagering, do not constantly press the cue ball to the short sides, do not look for easy balls, but play and truly difficult, thus demonstrating good technique and a deep understanding of the essence and tactics of the game of billiards.
Real, great masters play unpretentiously, easily, without much stress, but confidently and accurately.
Self-study methodology
In order to learn how to play billiards, it is not at all necessary to seek help from an experienced instructor. It is quite possible to master the basic skills and techniques of striking on your own.
Mastering the correct position of the body and hands when striking
To make a good shot, you need to master the initial techniques. It is very important here to be able to correctly stand at the table, take aim, swing the cue and hit “your” ball.
When hitting, the position of the body will depend on which hand - right or left - the athlete is playing.
Body position when playing with the right hand
Over time, rules for the position of the body when playing with the right hand have been formed in billiards:
a) stand facing the cue ball so that the imaginary line connecting the center of the ball with the point to be hit is perpendicular to the middle of the player’s chest;
Body position when playing with the right handb) stand half-turned, turning to the right and putting your left foot half a step forward so that the foot of your left foot is almost at a right angle to the foot of your right foot; if the cue ball is located at a sufficiently large distance from the player, then during the strike, for greater stability, you should touch the playing table with your left thigh;
c) bend over a little and easily place your outstretched left hand on the cloth so that it is raised above the table by 3–3.5 cm;
d) place the striking end of the cue between the thumb and forefinger; when swinging and aiming, the end of the cue can extend forward beyond the hand by 15–20 cm; at the same time, you should not hold the thin end of the cue between the index and middle fingers, covering the cue with your index finger;
e) grasp the top of the cue stick with your right hand, with all five fingers; the thumb is facing the thin end of the cue, aimed at the cue ball;
Correct stance for an average height playerf) when playing with one right hand, the position of the body remains the same; You can easily lean on the table with your left hand, and the cue should be placed on the table (if the cue ball is close), or, if the cue ball is far away, the ball is played from a canopy with a poke (pistol).
Body position when playing with the left hand
The position of the body when playing with the left hand: the techniques remain the same as when playing with the right hand, but in a mirror image, that is, not the left, but the right leg is put forward, the body is turned not to the right, but to the left, and so on.
Features of practical processing of initial techniques
We would like to give you some very important tips that will help you master the correct stance at the pool table and the correct handling of the cue. It seems that these tips will be useful not only for a beginner who has begun to master this wonderful game, but also for a person who already has some experience playing billiards, but has not yet achieved noticeable success. Sometimes such an unlucky player thinks that perhaps he does not have sufficient abilities necessary for the game, that he lacks practice or basic luck, and connects his unsuccessful game with some other reasons. And the truth, most likely, is that this player has never thoroughly studied the very basics of the game of billiards. Once upon a time he simply picked up a cue and, watching others play, gradually learned to handle it on his own, without any guidance, without an experienced mentor.
Such a player (as evidenced by practice) has no chance of learning real game, unless, of course, he naturally has a good stance, hold and swing of the cue, which happens extremely rarely.
The first thing to do is to choose a position in which the legs would be located at a certain distance from the line of the nearest board, while the soles of the feet would be turned in relation to the table and to each other properly, which depends on the location of the cue ball and the direction , which will be struck by the cue.
They begin to master the stance in relation to hitting the cue ball, which at this time is installed on the first point of the playing field and which must be launched forward straight in front of you, aiming exactly at the middle of the opposite short side.
If a player is of average height (172-176 cm) and plays with his right hand, then he should stand so that the centers of his feet are located as follows: right - at a distance of 50-60 cm, left - at a distance of 15-20 cm from the line of the nearest sides. For the position to be stable, the right foot must be turned to the right in relation to the longitudinal line of the table, and the left foot must form a right angle with it. The right leg is held straight, the left leg is slightly bent at the knee.
If a player is taller or shorter than average, it is quite possible for him to move his feet forward or backward so that his body is in the most convenient position for hitting. The only thing to remember is that in any case, the distance between the feet in a direction coinciding with the length of the table must be changed in such a way that the right leg always moves back much more than the left leg moves forward. The fact is that the correct placement of the feet is no less important for a billiards player than the correct footwork for a boxer.
If there is a need to change the direction of the shot and send the cue ball into the far right corner pocket, you should move your body to the left, while maintaining the relative position of the feet of both legs.
Often the player does not pay attention to the position of the legs, and, changing the direction of movement of the cue and experiencing discomfort from his position, tries to tilt the upper body either to the left or to the right. This is what causes an inaccurate strike. Experienced players who are well aware of this make sure to first move their feet so that their position corresponds to the direction of the shot. Only in a few cases, such as, for example, with small distances between “your” and the object balls, can you adjust your stance without moving your feet, just tilt your body slightly to the left or right. It must be remembered that the player’s head must be in a position in which the thin end of the cue with the sticker is located strictly in front of the eyes at the moment of impact.
The correct position of the hand along which the striking part of the cue moves, as well as the distance between the hand and the cue ball, is very important.
When the player takes aim, the hand, the part of the cue adjacent to the sticker, and the cue ball externally resemble a kind of bridge, the length of which largely determines the accuracy of the shot. The optimal distance is 20–25 cm. If the distance of the hand from the cue ball is too large or, conversely, too small, it is very difficult to make an accurate shot.
Before performing a blow, you need to place your hand with the palm of your hand on the table, with your fingers extended forward. Slowly bend your palm into an arc until your hand rests on the cloth with your wrist and the pads of your first three fingers, starting with your little finger. It is known from anatomy that there are significant differences in the structure of the fingers and the peculiarities of their bending between different people, and yet the hand plays the role of a convenient support with the help of which the cue is directed to the desired point of impact, and at the same time a point of stability that allows the player feel confident at the table.
Every beginner should know that first of all he must learn to press his thumb very tightly against his index finger. In this way two very important points: The cue glides across your hand with ease and there is no unwanted up and down vibration that could ruin your shot.
It is very important to learn how to hold the cue correctly with the hand with which you strike.
Before mastering this technique, you need to learn how to hold the cue freely, with a somewhat relaxed hand. The player makes preliminary swings and at the same time comfortably presses the elbow of the hand to the body. Figuratively speaking, the cue is like a bow in the hand of a violinist, and the place where it is best to grasp the turnik with your hand reacts sensitively to the slightest movement of the player, and the cue is able to accurately execute the intended blow. You should not squeeze the cue too hard - this also entails failure.
Perhaps the cue should be handled in the same way as a sword, which, as one of the ancient blade professionals said, “... is like a bird, and if you hold it tightly, you will strangle it; if you hold it weakly, it will fly away.” The cue, of course, is unlikely to fly away, but failure is guaranteed for you. There is one sure way to find out whether the cue is held correctly: the forearm and the cue should form a right angle.
If you have done all the operations exactly, but you still feel constrained (there is no ease in wielding the cue, and you feel too tense), then this means only one thing - the chosen cue is not in your hand, it simply does not suit you. Perhaps it is too long for you, or maybe, on the contrary, it is too short; It is possible that the cue is poorly balanced. The player should try several cues and choose the one that best suits his height, arm and leg length, and physical strength.
When a player is about to strike, he must always remember a few rules:
1) you should hit the ball with the cue only with the sticker, but in no case with the turnik or the side part;
2) no matter how varied the position of the player’s arms and body, at least one leg must touch the floor at the moment of impact.
The first hit of the cue in the game is called by the players a “hands on” game. It is done after the athlete places “his” ball anywhere in the “home”. When the cue ball passes the home line, this means that the game has begun.
Playing "from hand" also occurs when playing "Pyramid". In this case, the blow goes to the partner after falling from the previous blow into the pocket of “his” ball. The same is done by the player in the Moscow Pyramid game after he has pocketed the cue ball.
When there is a hand kick, the athlete’s legs and entire body should not go beyond the line of continuation of the right and left sides.
Exercises to master initial strikes
All initial blows with a cue are applied to the very center of the ball, that is, with a klapstos.
The initial training course includes 10 exercises. During this time, the beginner must practice the correct positioning of the arm and body, as well as learn the klapstos.
Exercise 1. Simple hit on “your” ball without aimingThe player should make the first blows with medium force. It is not necessary to aim at this time; The main goal of the exercise is to get used to the game. At the first stage, the main thing is to teach self-control correct position arms and body, and then you should start striking with the cue exactly at the center of the ball.
When novice players approach the table, expensive cloth is often damaged as a consequence. That’s why it’s so important, first of all, to learn how to wield a cue correctly. The turnbuckle should not stick up; ideally, it moves freely and smoothly almost parallel to the plane of the billiard table.
As mentioned above, blows should only be applied with a sticker, the rough surface of which is certainly chalked.
Exercise 2. Hitting the cue ball at the intended pointOn the opposite side of the table, the player marks a series of points with chalk. At this time, the partner must place the ball anywhere in the “house” and practice klapstos. His task is to get to the places marked with chalk. After some time, you can change the location of the marks; in addition, it is better to place them on the long sides.
Exercise 3. Rolling the ball1. The player places “his” ball on the first point and rolls it alternately to the second and then to the third point.
2. The cue ball standing on the first spot rolls to the opposite board, but it must not touch the board.
3. The cue ball standing on the first point must roll to different places, depending on the player’s desire. Professionals attach particular importance to this exercise because it provides an opportunity to master the size of the shot, which builds strength, agility, accuracy and the ability to give the cue ball the direction the player needs.
High professionalism in relation to the size of the shot is considered to be bringing the cue ball from the first point to the “alien” ball at the third point in such a way that “your” ball stands close to the one being played, touching it, or putting it out, as billiard players usually say, but without moving it with not a millimeter of space.
The size of the shot comes with years of lots of training and hard play. Of course, you won’t master it in a few lessons, but you should train in this way constantly.
Exercise 4. Pocketing “your” ball1. The cue ball is on the first spot. It must be placed sequentially in the left and then in the right corner.
2. The player places the cue ball located on the first point in the right and left middle.
3. At the end of the exercise, all these hits into the pockets must be made from different points on the billiard table under one condition: the shot must be free, that is, not made from the side.
Exercise 5. Rolling the ball from one side1. First, you should roll “your” ball from the short opposite side to the third point.
2. Roll the cue ball from the short opposite side to the second point.
3. Roll the cue ball from the opposite short side to the first point.
4. Roll the cue ball from the opposite short side to the short side of the house, but do not let it touch the house.
5. Do the same exercise from different points of the billiard table to any place chosen by the player.
Exercise 6. Rolling the ball from two sidesDo each stage of the previous exercise from two sides.
Exercise 7. Hitting “your” ball with aiming1. The player makes shots, aiming “his” ball at a specific point or pocket, while he gradually moves “his” ball further and further beyond the “house” line, to the point where it becomes necessary to use a long cue or machine .
2. The player does the previous exercise, gradually bringing “his” ball closer to the sides.
3. The exercise described above is performed, but the player places “his” ball close to the board or in the slot of the pocket, and he should clearly see the point of impact.
Exercise 8. Hitting the ballTo perform this exercise you will need one more ball. “Your” ball is placed on the first point, the other ball is placed on the third point.
1. You should rehearse hitting “your” ball into the very center of another ball.
2. Now you need to practice hitting the cue ball either into the right or left half of the other ball.
3. The same exercise can be done by changing the position of both balls to your own taste.
Exercise 9. Duplicating side balls1. First of all, play the cue ball with a simple doublet to the middle. When out of five doublets the cue ball falls into the pocket at least three times, you can practice the next technique.
2. Play the cue ball with a simple doublet into the corner.
3. Change tactics, making a direct double with the cue ball at the ball, either into the middle pocket or into the corner.
Exercise 10. General training to combine all previous exercisesSeveral balls are placed on the table at once. It is necessary to create various combinations of their location relative to each other. The beginner can choose to hit different balls to place them in his intended location. He practices doublets in the corner and in the middle, and practices pocketing balls.
In order to learn how to perform a kick correctly, you need to practice it in training. The approximate number of exercises performed aimed at improving the technique of performing basic strikes is presented in table. 2.
Table 2. Number of lessons and required time when practicing initial playing skills
Practicing the same technique for several hours is difficult and tiring, and therefore during training it is best to alternately perform elements from different exercises. This is not only effective, but also adds variety to your workouts and makes them fun.
In addition to self-study and solo training, it is good to conduct training sessions in which several beginners are present. In addition, there is a certain sporting element here. Students can compete with each other, for example, who can put the most balls in a pocket out of fifteen shots, who can roll “their” ball as close as possible to a certain goal...
In the future, the billiard player improves his skills during training games. Inviting instructors should never be neglected professional players: They can give a lot of excellent advice and show some tricks of the game.
During a billiard game, a situation often arises where it is easy to play the ball “out of hand.” To avoid misunderstandings, it is best to practice the initial blows with both hands - the right and the left alternately.
There are also cases when it becomes necessary to play with “not your own” hand, while “your” and “foreign” balls are located in close proximity to the board. In this case, players use a spectacular “over the back” technique. The player places the cue behind his back, and with his right or left hand squeezes the turnik; with his other hand he lightly supports the thin end of the cue.
Very often the outcome of a competition depends on how well a player controls both hands and how easily he can use the “over the back” technique.
Training games
Now that the reader is familiar with the general technique of the game and the basic theory of ball movement, you can begin to master the training games. Thanks to them, the skills of the previously discussed strikes are consolidated; besides, where can you best practice your strikes, if not in a fair battle with a partner!
Before you go to the pool table with the intention of playing doubles, you need to be aware that every shot you are about to make is extremely important. In addition, such a strike must be made quickly and thoughtfully at the same time. There is no room for sloppy or poorly thought out actions at the pool table. Believe that the enemy will not forgive you for a single mistake and will immediately take advantage of every move you make.
When you begin to take billiards extremely seriously, it will mean that you are on the right path and will be able to master a prudent manner of play over time, because it is sober calculation that makes a sports competition truly exciting and interesting for spectators.
The main training games used are “Rolling one ball with another”, “Putting balls into pockets”, “Placing balls in numerical order”, “Finnish game” and “American in one line”.
"Rolling one ball over another"
This game uses two balls. The player places the ball numbered “1” on the first point, the ball numbered “2” - on the third. Two players take part in “Rolling”.
Conditions of the game. You need to hit ball “2” with ball “1” so that the second one, as a result of the hit, is reflected from the short side and crosses the “home” line. The blow is considered made even when ball “2” hits the short side of the “house” or may even come out of it completely.
The next blow belongs to the second player. With ball “2” he must hit ball “1” regardless of where it stops.
Then the shots continue, and the players replace each other at the table, until some ball, after the first reflection, is forced to stop before reaching the “home” line. This means that this game is lost, after which the balls are again placed on their points and a new game can begin.
The game is considered lost even if one of the balls goes overboard or ends up in a pocket.
The game has a penalty system. Thus, a fine is levied on the player if he touches the ball once again with his hand, cue or machine at the time the shot is made or before it. In this case, one more strike is added to the agreed number of strikes.
This game is very useful in the development of an athlete, since a novice player learns to control the cue ball and the ball being played, and practices the shot - its accuracy and strength.
In “Rolling”, both wins, losses and draws are possible. A draw is counted if both players roll the balls correctly within the agreed number of strokes.
"Putting balls into pockets"
This game can involve two or more opponents.
Game conditions. Place 15 balls in a pyramid. All these balls should be placed regardless of their number. Before the game begins, opponents cast lots. Then the game takes turns.
The first blow is made by the player “from the hands” on a common basis; in this case, it is absolutely not necessary to break the pyramid.
The most profitable blow is the next one. It is best for the player to hit “his” ball in such a way that it bounces off the short side, and then stands close behind and in the middle of the pyramid, but does not break it.
The goal of all subsequent shots is to put the balls in the pockets (and you need to use a minimum number of shots).
The blows are counted out loud, loudly and clearly by the judge, instructor or one of the opponents. This game is not advantageous to start first, since the opponent has the advantage of calculating all possible shots based on the result of the player who made the first shot.
A penalty follows for an extra stroke when the balls touch each other. So, on the seventh shot, the player touches the “foreign” ball (that is, puts it out). If such a situation occurs, the referee must announce the following: “Seven” and “eight” for touching the ball.” An extra stroke cannot be added if “your” ball flies overboard or falls into a pocket. Next, the game is played from “home”.
The player can miss on purpose, send the ball wherever he wants, but in this case, each hit is certainly counted.
The winner is the player who manages to place the balls while performing the fewest number of strokes. In this game you can use a machine, a cue of any length and a wax.
This training game develops the ability to place “other people’s” balls, and, in addition, the player learns to calculate his game, including the game with an exit.
There are three possible endings in this game: win, lose and draw. Moreover, a draw is counted if the balls are placed in the same number of strokes.
"Laying balls in numerical order"
Game conditions. This game is carried out according to the rules of the previous one. However, the balls on the billiard field are placed according to the rules corresponding to the “Small Russian Pyramid”. In addition, players have the right to place balls only in numerical order, starting with the “one”, which is called the “ace”. Then follow “two”, “three” and so on.
The most important thing in this case is the correct breakdown of the pyramid; It is precisely this circumstance that determines what the result of the billiard game will be.
As in the game described above, it is not profitable for the first player to immediately break the pyramid; It’s better to place “your” ball behind it, then break it with the second blow and thus roll the balls to the middle of the table.
If a situation occurs that an out-of-order ball is placed in the pocket, then according to the rules it cannot be counted; further it should be exhibited on a general basis. After this, the game and scoring continue.
In terms of difficulty, this game seems more difficult than those described above. In order to successfully play the game, the athlete must be able to make subtle calculations.
"Finnish Party"
Two partners take part in this game, although one can play if desired.
Game conditions. 15 balls are installed in a specific way. You need to put them in the pockets with “your” ball in a minimum number of hits.
Two balls are placed close to each other near each pocket; three more balls stand on a line that mentally connects the centers of the middle pockets. The middle ball is on the point, and two more are tightly pressed to it from the sides.
Each player sets his own balls.
Before the first game, lots are drawn, then the game is on one by one.
The first player must loudly announce: “I’m starting!” He makes his first blow from “home” on a general basis.
The instructor or opponent counts the blows loudly.
As a result of each penalty, the number of strokes increases. If a ball is pocketed, it is counted. There is no penalty for throwing your own ball overboard and accidentally putting your own ball into a pocket. If such a situation occurs, then further game continues "from hand".
There is no penalty for the ball being played. After taking off, such a ball is placed on the middle point. If the middle point is already occupied, then the ejected ball occupies one of the extreme points. It happens that all three points are occupied; then the ball to be played is placed in the middle of the short side, which is located opposite the “house”.
The winner is the player who manages to place the balls in the minimum number of hits. In the “Finnish Party” it is allowed to play with a cue of any length using a machine or a mazik.
In the Finnish game, wins, losses and draws are possible.
This game is special because thanks to it, athletes practice some essential elements technique - measuring the strength and accuracy of your shot, taking into account the upcoming exit of the cue ball under the ball. In addition, wonderful training occurs for almost all types of side impacts - effe; players strive to calculate the sequence of upcoming shots as best as possible depending on the position in this moment balls on the billiard field.
The “Finnish Party” seems especially interesting to novice players. Initially, the goal is to pocket the balls in thirty strokes, however, as a rule, in just 10–12 lessons, players can make a game in 20 strokes; By the end of the course, 15 strokes are enough for them.
The significance of the “Finnish Game” for a billiard player is extremely great, since it is this game that teaches you how to solve a given problem in a very short period of time.
"American in one line"
This game is played by two players, although one can practice.
Game conditions. 15 billiard balls should not be placed in a pyramid, but should be built from them, tightly adjacent to each other, perpendicular to the middle of the short side. In this case, the serial number of the balls does not matter. The player places two cues on the table, making a guide groove out of them. Balls are placed between the cues.
Before the start of the game there is a draw. The first player makes a shot from home as usual. After the breakdown has occurred, you can place any ball with any ball.
The success of the game depends on the correct breaking of the balls. It should be sharply broken into the right or left half of the head ball, choosing the appropriate effect; it is necessary that “your” ball, when reflected from the long side, and then from the short side, can break all the balls.
If you make a direct blow to any side of the line of balls - right or left, only one ball can be knocked out of the line, but the entire line will remain unchanged.
If a player wants to break the line and is aiming for the right half of the frontal ball, then it is best to use the left effe. If he is aiming at the left half of the frontal ball, then the right effect is suitable for maximum effect.
With the left effect, “your” ball is given a clockwise rotational movement. The cue ball is reflected respectively from the long and short sides, while maintaining the resulting rotational force, and accelerates all the balls.
With the right effect, the cue ball rotates counterclockwise, but the result will be the same as with the left effect.
The winner is the player who manages to place the largest number of balls from the cue.
In “American” there is a penalty for flying overboard of a “foreign” ball: it is placed on the table.
Every player who wants to become a professional must master all the games described above. Without these games the road to the big and fascinating world billiards can be considered closed. The number of training games held is presented in table. 3.
Table 3. Number of lessons and time required for training games
Instructors advise using carom shots as often as possible - in almost all games.
It is best to start the game with equal partners, but do not forget to consult with professionals as often as possible, as well as attend competitions and evaluate the actions of the players. When experience comes, you need to choose strong opponents and ultimately play without a handicap.
The number of parties, taking into account the strengths and capabilities of any person, should be limited. You should not play for more than two hours at a time. Drinking alcoholic beverages and smoking are strictly prohibited during the game.
Professionals believe that when practicing billiards exercises for beginners, as well as in training games, as well as before the start of important matches, it is necessary to make from 10 to 15 strokes with a heavy cue as a warm-up. Thanks to this simple exercise, the percentage of accurate strikes significantly increases when the player begins to use a light cue. It is especially useful to train with a heavy cue, when most shots are made with the right hand without support. They say that a heavy cue performs the same role as the cast-iron bow of virtuoso violinists, which they use before important concerts, and then switch to a normal one.
Billiard problems
Both beginners and already quite experienced billiard players can improve their skills by solving billiard problems during training. All tasks can be divided into simple and complex. Simple billiard problems are solved using shots often used in the game. For solutions complex tasks The player is required not only to have a good knowledge of technical techniques, but also to have imagination, in a word, what modern cue masters often call billiard imagination.
It is necessary to place two balls in the middle pockets: the cue ball and the target ball.
The solution of the problem
This task is classified as difficult. To solve it, you need to hit the object ball with a fairly strong blow with the cue ball pulled back. The ball being played will end up in the middle pocket, and “your” ball, as a result of rotation and reverse movement, will fall into the middle pocket located on the opposite side of the playing table.
It is necessary to play two object balls located at the lip of the pocket.
The solution of the problem
In order to put both balls being played into the pocket, you need to hit the object balls with a “draw” of the cue ball. In this case, the first (farthest) ball will fall into the pocket due to the impact from the ball being played, and the second ball will end up in the pocket after colliding with the rotating cue ball.
The 14 balls being played are lined up in a straight line as shown in the figure. In this case, 10 balls must be located from one another at a distance equal to the diameter of the ball. Four more balls are placed close to the 10th. The 15th ball is in the corner pocket. The 15th ball should be placed as “yours”, standing at any point on the segment PG.
The solution of the problem
To solve the problem, you need to hit the object ball from the side, since the force of a direct hit will not be sufficient to drive the ball into the pocket.
To play the game from the side, first of all, you need to calculate the location of “your” ball. They do this in the following way. Between the last four balls that are close to each other, a conditional straight line is drawn to the line of the long side. The intersection of the imaginary line and the side line will be a point located at the middle pocket F. The same point will become the aiming point when making a double.
From this point, at an angle equal to angle FGD, a line is again drawn and led until it intersects with the diagonally running straight line AD. The point of intersection of these lines will be the aiming point and the location of the cue ball. After completing the double, the first of the four balls will go towards the 15th ball and push it into the pocket.
At the 3rd point of the gaming table, two object balls are placed close to each other. The cue ball is at point 1. You need to put the balls being played into different pockets with one hit of the cue ball.
The solution of the problem
One of the object balls is placed on the 3rd point of the table, and the second ball being played is placed next to it. In this case, their centers must lie on the conventionally drawn line PG.
The cue ball should be aimed at the left ball with a moderate blow. After the collision, the left ball will go into the left corner pocket, and the right ball will go into the right corner pocket.
One of the balls being played is placed on the 3rd point of the table, and the other is placed close to it. “Your” ball is placed in the “house”, at point 1. Five more balls are placed between the cue ball and the object balls.
You need to hit the cue ball into the pockets of two balls standing not far from the far short side of the ball.
The solution of the problem
With a strong klapstos, “your” ball should be directed towards three of the five balls located on the line that connects the three points of the gaming table. As a result of the impact, the far ball will roll forward with force, collide with the two balls being played and drive them into the pockets.
It is necessary to drive “your” ball into pockets A, E and B one by one. When performing each of the shots, you should set the aiming point on the AB line.
The solution of the problem
To solve the problem, you need to draw a straight line through the centers of “your” and “someone else’s” balls, parallel to the short side of the gaming table - point M. After this, you need to divide the segment AM in half. The resulting point X will be the aiming point when hitting and placing the cue ball in pocket A. After this, the segment ME should be divided in half. Point U is the aiming point when placing the cue ball into pocket E. Point Z, obtained by dividing the segment MB in half, is the aiming point for playing the cue ball into pocket B.
According to the conditions of the problem, the balls should be arranged as shown in the figure. It is necessary to play into the corner pocket with an object ball located in its opening. When solving the problem, you need to take into account that angle a is equal to angle b, and the cue ball is at angle b.
The solution of the problem
According to the conditions of the problem, angle a is equal to angle b. Therefore, triangles containing such angles are congruent. Thus, only at point X will the angle of incidence be equal to the angle of reflection, which means that this point will become the aiming point. As a result of the impact, “their” ball will first move along the bisector bX, and then, reflected from the long side, along the bisector Xa. The cue ball will then collide with the object ball and pocket it.
According to the conditions of the problem, “your” ball must be placed at the 1st point of the table. On both sides of it in a straight line parallel to the short board, three balls are placed: on the left - “one”, “five” and “seven”, on the right – “eight”, “thirteen” and “fifteen”. Next, from the center point of the cue ball, you need to draw a semicircle, the radius of which is equal to the sum of the diameters of 3.5 balls. A “two” is placed on the 3rd point of the table, and a “four” is placed close to it, on the line of the corner pocket.
With one hit it is necessary to simultaneously drive the “nine” and “ten” standing in the solutions into the corner pockets.
The solution of the problem
To solve this problem, the player must be patient and use all the reserves of his knowledge of technical techniques.
First of all, you need to carefully, without breaking the line and without moving the balls from their place, use the cue to push the cue ball a little back to the short side, but so that it stops in the area of the semicircle outlined in chalk. After this, you need to hit “your” ball with a fairly strong blow, as a result of which the cue ball will collide with the “two” and “four”. These balls, in turn, will go to the balls located in the corner pockets and place them.
To complete the task, you need to place the balls in a semicircle near one of the corner pockets. One object ball must be placed in the opening of the same pocket, and the cue ball must be placed behind the “necklace”, on one of the points of the line that passes through the centers of the corner pocket and the middle pocket lying opposite it. It is necessary to drive the ball being played into the pocket by hitting the cue ball without breaking the “necklace”.
The solution of the problem
There are two options for solving this problem. The first option is to carry out a jump strike. As a result of the impact, the cue ball jumps over the necklace line and pushes the object ball into the pocket.
The second method is to tilt the cue from above at an angle of 50° relative to the plane of the table and strike the cue ball in the direction of the object ball.
From the corner pocket, at a distance equal to 1/3 of the length of the side from one pocket to the other, two points A and B should be placed up and down. These points must be connected with a chain of seven balls. It is necessary to determine how many of the seven balls will be played and which shot should be used for this.
The solution of the problem
The seven balls of the pyramid are placed in the form of a necklace, the ends of which stand at previously marked points A and B. In billiards, where tables with loose pockets are used, any ball can be pocketed with one hit. On strictly pocketed tables, five out of seven balls may be played.
The cue ball should be placed near pocket F, at a distance equal to 1/3 of the length of the line connecting the centers of the middle pockets.
It is necessary to set the aiming point such that the ball launched by the shot hits the sides EB, BD and DF three times, after which it falls into the pocket E. When calculating, one should take into account the condition that the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection.
The solution of the problem
To establish the location of the aiming point, it is necessary to divide the segment EB in half, and then lower the perpendicular KL from the resulting point.
The cue ball must be hit by directing the ball to point K. As a result, the cue ball, having previously reflected from the three sides of the table, will go in the direction of pocket E and fall into it.
There are 12 balls on a billiard table. Using 11 balls to play, you need to drive one object ball into pocket A, hitting the cue ball towards pocket B.
The solution of the problem
The 11 balls being played are placed in an arc extending towards the corner pocket where the 12th ball is located.
The cue ball must be struck at the ball lying at the short end of the parabola, directing it into pocket B. As a result of the law of force transfer, the elastic balls will begin to shift and push the last ball, standing at the long end of the parabola, into pocket A.
It is necessary to place six balls in the openings of the pockets with one blow. To solve the problem, you can use any number of auxiliary balls.
The solution of the problem
12 additional balls are placed on the gaming table. The player needs to take another ball in his hand and hit the balls lying in the center of the table with force. As a result of the impact, the balls will roll in the given directions and push the object balls into the pockets.
With one hit from home, you need to put two balls in the pockets, located at different pockets.
The solution of the problem
To solve the problem, you need to place one object ball at the middle pocket, and the second at the corner pocket (near the same side).
With one hit you need to pocket three balls located at different pockets. To solve the problem, you can use any number of auxiliary balls.
The solution of the problem
The balls to be played must be placed on the table as follows: one - at the middle pocket, the second and third - at the corner pockets lying on the opposite short side.
When solving this problem, it is best to use six auxiliary balls. They are placed like this: two balls - close to each other, on a line connecting the centers of the middle pockets, two balls - on imaginary diagonal lines directed to the corner pockets, two more balls - to the right of those in the center.
The location of the six auxiliary balls must be such that, as a result of the blow from the released cue ball, three of them would begin to move towards the balls being played, lying at the openings of the pockets, and would put them down.
You need to place four balls located in different pockets with one hit. To solve the problem, you can use any number of auxiliary balls.
The solution of the problem
This task is similar to the previous one. The fourth ball should be placed near the free middle pocket. When solving the problem, you need to use eight auxiliary balls, placed a little closer to the “home” than in the previous game situation, and hit them in such a way that four of them begin to move towards the balls being played, standing near the pockets.
With one hit you need to put five balls into the pockets, lying at the openings of different pockets. When solving, you can use any number of auxiliary balls.
The solution of the problem
The five balls to be played must be placed in five pockets. In this case, one of the corner pockets must remain free. The eight auxiliary balls should be placed close to the home line. Due to the impact, the auxiliary balls will go in the given directions and will put the object balls in the pockets.
With one hit you need to put two balls into the pockets. One of the balls being played is located at the left middle pocket, and the other is at the right corner pocket, farthest from the player. The game must be played from “home”.
The solution of the problem
To solve the problem, you should force the cue ball, using a twist, towards the right side, close to the corner pocket, in order to put the object ball located at its lip into it.
After being reflected from the side of the playing table, the cue ball will move towards the middle pocket, where it will drive the ball standing there.
Initially the ball is at the point shown in the figure. It is necessary to establish a direction of his movement in which he will never be put in a pocket. This problem must be solved without striking.
When solving the problem, you must be guided by the following condition: the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection.
The solution of the problem
An object ball located close to the short edge will never pocket if it is fired along lines running parallel or perpendicular to the small diagonals of the table.
It is required to place four balls in such positions that the straight lines connecting the centers of all pockets can be divided into three equal segments. In this case, the division points should be the balls.
The solution of the problem
In order to solve this problem, it is necessary to connect all six pockets with possible straight lines.
Next, you should place the balls at the points where the lines connect. The intersection points of the large and small diagonals of the gaming table are the points that will divide each of the conditionally drawn straight lines into three parts.
According to the conditions of the problem, you need to place two balls on the major diagonal line of the gaming table. It is necessary to determine the location of the additional third ball, with the help of which the object ball farthest from the player will be pocketed.
The solution of the problem
To solve the problem, you need to place another ball on the right side of the designated ball so that the centers of both balls lie on line ab. The conditional line ab passes through the centers of the corner pocket and the middle pocket located on the opposite side.
Due to the cut shot, the cue ball will collide with the secondary ball, which in turn will push the designated ball and send it into the middle pocket.
It is known that six pyramid balls stand in the openings of six pockets. It is necessary to establish the location of the cue ball at which it will be impossible to play any of the object balls.
The solution of the problem
To ensure that none of the balls being played are played, the cue ball must be placed close to the short side, located on the opposite side from the “home” side. In this case, “yours” should be placed strictly in the middle of the side.
It is necessary to determine the place and method of arrangement of 10 balls of the pyramid and the cue ball, in which none of the balls being played would be able to be played or moved from their place.
The solution of the problem
To solve the problem, all object balls are placed in one line, along the short side of the gaming table. In this case, the first ball of the chain should be located at the very lip of the pocket. The cue ball is placed on the same line, but at a distance equal to the diameter of one ball being played.
This problem can be successfully solved only on billiard tables with strict pockets.
In the middle, along the short side, two balls are placed: “yours” and “someone else’s”. Another playable ball is placed next to the “stranger”. You must place one of the object balls in any pocket. It is prohibited to place balls in nearby corner pockets.
The solution of the problem
The cue must be positioned at an angle of 45° relative to the surface of the gaming table and hit the cue ball. After being reflected from the board, the object ball will fall into the middle or corner pocket.
Along a line conditionally connecting three points of the table and extended until it intersects with the line of the short side in the home area, two balls are placed close to each other: an object ball and a cue ball. It is necessary to play the ball in any pocket.
The solution of the problem
To solve the problem, you need to place two more “alien” balls close to the aiming ball. After this, using the left side, you should direct the cue ball to the long side lying opposite. The shot must be struck from the right corner pocket. The designated ball will fall into the same pocket after colliding with the cue ball reflected from the long side.
In the spring of 2016, we invited Sergei to make a special cue for the Golden League. We discussed the parameters for a long time, appearance. The main requirements for the cue were: high playing qualities, an unusual and discreet design, a cue mainly for playing the Moscow pyramid. Important requirements were ease of transportation in cars and planes, and of course design and decoration. A cue is a wonderful gift for an anniversary or for a victory.
We agreed to make three works: from 3 parts, from 2 parts and one-piece. Watch and be surprised. Shaft 12.3 mm, center 18.3 mm, pulley 27.1, length 160 cm, weight 710 g. Ebony, lemongrass and hornbeam, a flat is made on the turnyak, a 250 mm extension made of hornbeam. The tube is made of ash.
The idea of the price is 60 thousand rubles, of which 20 thousand rubles will go to the Golden League fund. You can order from Sergei Yakimov, or through me.
League Coordinator Alexander Tsigelnikov, tel. +7 918 168 90 92, [email protected]
Golden League cues and...
Champion Krasnodar region Alexandra Martynova
Master of Sports of International Class, Champion of the Golden League 2016 Eduard Galiyants
Presentation at the Golden League finals in Vityazevo
MSMK and the living legend of domestic sports Givi Ilyich Anfimiadi
