home > Solitaire Mat > Buying antique watches. Valuation of antique watches from photos. Everything a beginner needs to know about collecting pocket watches Watch Collector

Buying antique watches. Valuation of antique watches from photos. Everything a beginner needs to know about collecting pocket watches Watch Collector

The topic of collecting always arouses interest, since almost each of us has a little, but still experience in this matter, collecting postcards, stamps, stickers, toys, etc. in childhood. Most people stop there, but there is another half for whom collecting becomes not just a hobby, but the meaning of life.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question: what, how and where to start collecting? It depends on many factors, the main one of which is what your soul is about. After all, you won’t be doing something you don’t like for long. Having determined this point for yourself, then everything depends on the purpose of collecting (writing a scientific paper, studying history, investing capital, for status or prestige, or just for the soul), personal qualities and financial capabilities.

Luch quartz watch with heart rate monitor (1971-1983) Price $130

Today, a fairly young, popular and also exciting activity is collecting wristwatches. There are a lot of watches in the world, it is impossible to embrace the immensity, so it is very important from the very beginning to decide on the era, period, theme, type, manufacturer. In addition, watch collecting differs from other types in the absence of uniform pricing principles. Many rely on the annual price list published in the USA, Price Giude to Watch.

Each collector chooses his own way of collecting: one collects his collection on his own, someone joins a group or club and begins searching for information: reads books, magazines, visits museums, exhibitions and auctions.

The most affordable for collecting are watches from the USSR period; novice collectors can start with inexpensive Soviet vintage, or Japanese diving models, pseudo-military watches and gradually move on to more valuable options, when when buying the next watch, they don’t mind parting with several thousand. .

The most popular collections are:
– wristwatches, the so-called “golden era of watchmaking” (1950-1970). During these years, mechanical watches were assembled by craftsmen by hand, the price corresponded to the quality, and there was active competition among manufacturers. Today, such watches can only be found in antique shops, flea markets, other collectors or at auctions;
– watches of the so-called pre-quartz period (1960-1970), when tuning fork and electromechanical watches were produced, there are few such models and it is very difficult to get them into your collection;
– Seiko: interesting and affordable prices;
– military watches, military chronographs;
– watches from American manufacturers (Elgin, Hampden, Illinois).

Pavel Bure Swiss watch in gold case (before 1920) Price $350

Watches from Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, IWC Portuguese and Rolex Oyster Perpetual of the premiere editions can become the diamond of any collection.

Patek Philippe watch in gold case (pre-1920) Price $10,000

If you are a novice watch collector, then remember an important rule: all details, even the most insignificant ones, must be authentic. Even the smallest non-original part can reduce the cost of a watch by 80%. An equally important factor when evaluating a watch is good working condition, so repairing Swiss watches in Moscow is a very hot topic for many collectors. Watches are 100% guaranteed to be authentic when purchased at auction with a corresponding certificate of authenticity. The rules of reputable auction houses provide for the return of the purchase price plus moral damages if the purchase contains a non-original element.

IWC Portuguese Minute Repeater watch. Golden case. Price $45000

IN last years Experts in the field are seeing a significant decline in interest in vintage models. Modern offers of watches of unusual design are more understandable and close to us; among them, it is much easier for collectors to find interesting watches that are considered as a future source of income. Manufacturers have already grasped this point and are specially producing watches aimed at collectors.

Iconic Jaeger Lecoultre Ss Reverso watch. Price $2500

Dear collectors, be prepared for the fact that fast money You can’t make money here, and your collection can only be in demand in the best of times.

When a wristwatch becomes more than the sum technical characteristics; when their value in the eyes of the owner exceeds their face value; when the pleasure of owning a watch is more important than the fact of its direct use, then a person becomes a collector.

Men's mechanical wristwatch Union Glashütte/SA. Viro Date D0114071603101

It happens that a collection begins to form spontaneously, by chance, its first copies are purchased out of necessity or received as a gift. But regardless of the number of watches already owned, a person becomes a collector when he begins to consciously and in advance plan his next purchase, having decided on the main thing - which specific models will become the subject of his interest.

Sometimes the starting point, the day the collector’s spirit awakens, can be considered the moment when a person understands: “I’ll definitely get a mechanical one for the next watch.” This means that he was interested in watches with their own essence, and not just as an accessory or decoration. Collecting them, of course, is also possible and exciting, but that’s a slightly different story.

If you already have a desire to become a collector, but still don’t have an understanding of which direction to go, you can choose one of three main options.

Women's Swiss wristwatch TAG Heuer Aquaracer WAY1313.BA0915

Watches for different occasions

The first steps in collecting are not difficult to take - a few different hours for different occasions. This is the simplest, most understandable and practical approach. The industry creates wristwatches for both different operating conditions and different options dress code. “Suits”, sports, casual for every day, “aviators”, diving watches, smart watches and so on. Having the right watch for every situation is a worthy goal.

Men's Swiss mechanical wristwatch Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde MP6578-SS001-131-1

Thematic collection

The concept of “topic” here can be interpreted in different ways, and first of all it depends on the person’s hobbies and preferences. An interesting collection can be formed from watches with different materials from simple to exotic (steel, titanium, marble, wood, ceramics, precious metals, meteorites, etc.), items dedicated to heroes in any field (musicians, athletes, etc.). etc.), “space”, “racing” and “art” models, military-style watches, jewelry, interesting and unusual skeletons, and so on. Someone is hunting for rare watches from different eras, someone is trying to collect all the outstanding examples with a tourbillon, someone has become a fan of the watchmaker and wants to collect all his original products.

Brand loyalty

Buying absolutely all the wristwatches of your favorite brand most likely makes no sense (it doesn’t justify the costs and is simply not interesting), but it’s nice to be proud of owning all the limited models, rare or released in a certain period, for example, before the Second World War and honorable.

Buyers of such watches quickly make acquaintances with each other, and often with representatives of the brand, and enjoy not only their collection, but also communication with like-minded people.

Women's Swiss wristwatch Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date EL1094-SS002-410-1

Value and Durability

In collecting, cost is not the determining factor; quality is more important. If in case of some force majeure and emergency you can still buy cheap Chinese watches, then for the collection it is absolutely pointless.

Men's Swiss mechanical wristwatch Frederique Constant Runabout Automatic FC-303RMS6B6

Collecting is an activity, if not for life, then for long years exactly. It makes sense to buy watches from reliable – not necessarily expensive and luxury – brands, being confident in the quality of the materials and mechanism, receiving a warranty certificate and having the opportunity to contact an authorized service center.

At the same time, you can become a collector with almost any budget. Many brands today create interesting models at a very affordable price. The value of the collection is determined by the number and variety of models, their rarity, the degree of preservation (if we are talking about old watches) of the case and mechanism. The value of a good collection often exceeds the total price of its items, and it itself becomes a family treasure.

The art of watchmaking in any era was considered the prerogative of the best masters of their craft. The names of the famous workshops are known to almost everyone who orients themselves in time not only by the Sun and stars. Some examples, recognized as true masterpieces, are a brilliant and harmonious combination of precision mechanics and jewelry. The watches were designed and manufactured individually, to order, the craftsmen practiced exclusively manual, but at the same time amazingly precise assembly, guaranteeing durability.

If your “vintage watch” is still running, and you prefer to find out the exact time from your smartphone, then you can think about how to quickly and profitably get rid of an absolutely chic and stylish, but, alas, completely useless and unnecessary thing. The purchase of antique watches is carried out after they have been checked by a master watchmaker; in this case, the seller does not bear any costs for checking them. Buying an antique watch is a kind of standard of success among collectors, but not even every experienced watchmaker can professionally evaluate an antique watch; only a master of antique mechanisms will do. Antique watches have always been in great demand at auctions and on the antiques market. Rare watches made in famous workshops last a very long time, and if handled with care, they count the time of several generations on Earth without significant wear and tear.

What watches are considered antique?

- - Exclusive pieces made by hand. In this case, the popularity of the watch brand is also taken into account. You can sell rare watches that fall under this category quite quickly and profitably after.
  - Antique watch in good condition. Not only is it assessed appearance and general safety, but also wear and tear of the mechanism, as well as accuracy. Antique watches dating from the 19th century and older can now be sold for a very high price, but only after more careful consideration. However, the approximate cost can also be determined from a photograph using.
  - Collectible watches that made a revolution, or any other revolution in watchmaking that suits you. A watch is not a bicycle; it can be invented forever. Temples were rebuilt, counting minutes with the help of the Sun and Moon, mechanisms became more complex, and cuckoos evolved. Some of the surviving watches were the first in their category - these are the ones that are of real value to collectors. Nowadays you can sell collectible watches quickly and expensively, provided they are in good condition and authentic.
  - Personalized, award and other iconic watches associated with any historical or cultural events, famous owners and watchmakers. Everything is clear here - and among the watches there are real “stars” who were participants in significant events, starred in famous films and adorned their wrists (not necessarily) famous people. It is interesting that such watches are sought after not only by professional collectors, but also by the most devoted fans of actors, musicians, football players and political figures, seeking to obtain a piece of their idol as their full property.

How and where to evaluate antique watches?

Collecting watches is not as easy as it seems at first glance. To do this, it is not enough to simply buy all the models that you like. And the most difficult thing in this matter is to start. You need to have a clear idea of what you want your collection to be and what you need it for. Before purchasing your first watch, you need to think through many nuances, including where and how you will buy it and how much you are willing to spend.

To ensure you don't give up on your own collection when you hit the first hurdle, we asked for help from some of the experts on the subject: British GQ deputy editor Bill Prince, watch columnist Robin Sweetinbank, and GQ freelance editor Simon de Burton.

1. Do your research

“This needs to be said, although this fact seems obvious to many. Buying a watch is as difficult as buying good wine or a vintage car. There is no clearly developed and one hundred percent reliable system in this matter. There is always a risk of encountering scammers and buying a fake. So you need to be confident in the supplier from whom you purchase the watch, and not hope that you will be able to make a successful deal with some reseller. This is a utopia,” advises Bill Prince.

2. Decide on a budget

“The amount you are willing to spend on a watch plays an important role. I would not recommend buying a very expensive watch right away. After all, you don’t want to grab your head and think “why did I buy them?” And besides, price should not be a factor in determining whether you like a watch or not,” Simon de Burton.

3. Stick to the classics

“This is especially important if you decide to spend a fortune on a watch. You should not choose too bold a body design or bright colors. It is better to trust generally recognized brands with a long history, which have excellent classic models. For example, Rolex Oyster Perpetual, TAG Heuer Carrera or Omega Speedmaster. But if you are uncompromising in your desire to choose something unusual, take a closer look at the limited collections of these brands,” - Robin Sweetinbank.

“The obvious choice in this case is Rolex. This is the most reliable investment. They are not just the most popular watches in the world. Moreover, you can always resell them,” Simon de Burton.

4. Don't choose fancy styles

“You shouldn’t buy watches that are too flashy or strange. The TAG Heuer Autavia and Rolex Submariner models are popular due to their simple designs. By the end of the day, you'll get tired of looking at a fancy dial where you can hardly tell what time it is. In addition, the fashion for unusual models is short-lived, and their value is negligible compared to the classics,” Simon de Burton.

5. Be careful with vintage models

“Think again before purchasing a vintage watch. You must be 100 percent confident in the supplier you are purchasing them from. The risk of stumbling upon a fake is enormous, especially for the Cosmograph Daytona and Cosmograph Zenith models. You can lose a lot of money by contacting a scammer, or even the watch itself. After all, if they were stolen, they could be confiscated,” Simon de Burton.

6. Take your time

“Such a purchase must be considered. Don't rush yourself in search of the perfect watch. Sometimes this can take several years. But it’s even better, during this time your style and idea of the watch you need will be finally formed. In addition, if you want the same model throughout your search, you are done right choice" - Robin Sweetinbank.

7. Forget about Kickstarter-sponsored brands

“You shouldn’t buy watches from brands that are funded by Kickstarter, as these companies can go bankrupt and cease to exist at any time. Yes, there are famous and popular brands among them, but when it comes to buying a watch, reliability is more important,” Simon de Burton.

8. Don't forget about companies from the quartz crisis

“Looking through old watch catalogs, you will often come across brands that you have never heard of. Such companies have become victims of the quartz crisis, despite a solid history. Unfortunately, many of them were never revived. But this does not mean that you do not need to take a closer look at them. For example, Universal makes amazing chronograph and calendar watches. And they are gaining popularity again,” Simon de Burton.

9. Find a reliable supplier

“If you make a purchase from any of the Swiss Bucherers, you can be sure of the quality of your watch. But for this you will have to pay a lot of money. So you might want to check out the independent brands at Page & Cooper. And high-quality vintage models are often offered at Fellowes and Watches of Knightsbridge auctions,” Simon de Burton.

10. Beware of eBay

“When you buy a watch on eBay, you can't even look at it before you pay. Therefore, you should not think about such transactions. And always remember the original packaging and original documents if you buy a watch from the previous owner,” Simon de Burton.

11. Take a friend with you

“If you are completely captivated by the idea of buying your first watch, then most likely you are ready to browse all the sites and fly halfway around the world for the sake of it. And in order not to go crazy and not get lost in the diversity, it is better to have a friend-accomplice nearby or at least an adviser who can facilitate the search at any time,” - Bill Prince.

12. Consider the parameters

“This is especially true for online shopping, because you can’t try on watches. I once bought an Omega Chronostop simply because I liked it, but I didn't notice that the dial diameter was very small and the strap was very thin. The end result was that the watch didn't look the way I wanted on my wide wrist." - Robin Sweetinbank

13. Choose what you like

“When buying a watch, it is better to take into account the previous tips. But ultimately you need to choose what you like. Most collections began with watches that made the wearer feel confident and comfortable.” – Robin Sweetinbank.

14. How do you want to be remembered?

“This may seem like a scary question, but how would you like to be remembered? I have my grandfather's Rolex and I hope to pass it and all the watches on to my children and someday my grandchildren. And I would really like it to remind them of what I was like. A watch can be called a reflection of a person’s personality and values. They are as important to us as rings are to women.” - Robin Sweetinbank.

Collector's Starter Kit

Now you know what to consider before purchasing the first watch for your collection. But to make sure you get it right, Simon de Burton has put together a few models to get you started.

1

A classic Rolex

“I mean Rolex GMT-Master or Submariner. These are versatile models that will always be popular, so you can resell them. However, be prepared that they will not be bought too quickly.”

GMT-Master II, Rolex, £7150 at rolex.com

2

Something from an independent brand

“For example, from F.P. Journe – Chronomètre Souverain or Centigraphe Chronograph. Any watch you like from one of these brands will be a very good buy.”

Chronomètre Souverain Caliber 1304, F.P. Journe, POA at fpjourne.com

3

Classic Omega

“And although this is a very popular brand, you can find some cool and not very popular models, in particular the Speedmaster or Seamaster. They also have a wonderful limited edition line released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Master collection. It’s definitely worth taking a closer look at.”

Seamaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer, Omega, £6000 at beaverbrooks.co.uk

4

Something from the Roger W Smith collection

“These watches are very expensive and very prestigious. The brand creates only ten watches a year, and their waiting list is six years in advance. So if you make a deposit and get in line now, your order will be ready in time for you to save up for it.”

Series 1, Roger W Smith, POA at rwsmithwatches.co.uk

5

Calatrava Patek Philippe

“If you decide to build your own watch collection, then someday you will definitely want to add this model to it.”

Natalia Erofeevskaya

We can safely say that the topic of collecting has not spared a single person. Porcelain figurines, stamps, toys, postcards, beer caps and coasters, herbariums and strange insects - the collecting instinct in man has lived, is alive and will live. Today we will talk about a rather expensive, but incredibly attractive type of collecting - wristwatch collecting has a whole army of fans.

Watch collection

When choosing such an unusual hobby, many people wonder what watch collecting is called? In fact, there is no special term, whether we are talking about antique specimens or modern ones, but you can often find the unofficial name of this hobby is chorology. And although the term “chorology” directly refers to the science of measuring time, it still has some relation to watches. And then you can often hear that collectors of antique, Soviet or original watches are called horologists.

What watches should you collect?

For himself, a novice collector first of all determines direction of “watch” collecting: antiques, wall clocks, pocket clocks, clocks from USSR factories, etc. Of course, portable clocks have a certain advantage: they take up significantly less space in the collection than, say, their wall-mounted or floor-standing counterparts. But the size of the collectible exhibit does not affect the cost - a small wrist or pocket watch can cost much more than a weighty clock with a pendulum, cuckoo and the like.

Howard Miller Wall Clock

The collection may contain completely different pieces: working ones and those that can no longer be made to work, watches from a certain country (for example, Soviet or Japanese), or watches that are in one way or another connected with significant events in the life of the owner of the collection. The desire of collectors to get something unique into their collection is also quite understandable: some watches are produced in limited editions, cost considerable sums, and true watch collectors sometimes go on a real hunt for them.

Collectible men's watch "Polyot" President

It’s worth talking about Soviet watches separately - USSR era wristwatch can hardly be called a work of art: they are, as a rule, laconic and strict, there is nothing superfluous in them. Often such watches were dedicated to certain historical events in the life of the country and the Soviet people: the launch of rockets and artificial Earth satellites, nuclear submarines, icebreakers, etc. The “Commander” brand of military watches, produced since 1965 at the Chistopol watch factory, continues to this day day is prized in collector markets around the world.

A significant advantage of Soviet watches is their quality: watches in such collections can last for decades with a minimum of care

Men's and women's wristwatches

If we talk about collecting pocket watches, then these are exclusively male models: for ladies in their time mass use Wearing a personal watch was not allowed. Pocket watches were massive, made of precious metals (often gold), decorated with expensive stones and an impressive chain.

Collectible skeleton pocket watch

But the history of watches with a bracelet began exactly the opposite: elegant and not so elegant (depending on the manufacturer and cost) watches for a long time adorned exclusively women’s hands. For men of that era, a solid pocket watch remained a status item.

Wristwatches for men became popular during the First World War. Costing more than pocket watches, the watches were distinguished by their quality and accuracy and were necessary for commanders and senior officers when planning and conducting operations and performing combat missions. Soldiers who particularly distinguished themselves at the front were awarded personalized copies; in the event of the death of a soldier, such chronometers were handed over to his relatives along with military awards and personal belongings.

Soviet wristwatch

It's no secret that for collectors some chronometer models are more desirable than others. The October Revolution changed not only the course of history, but also practically stopped producing new chronometer models: Tsarist factories were destroyed, production facilities were liquidated, private workshops were ruined. Only decades later, in 1930, the production of wristwatches was resumed, but first of all they were provided for the country's defense forces: the army, aviation, and navy. Men's and women's wristwatches for mass civilian consumers began to be produced only after the Second World War.

Wristwatch Submarine "Antey"

“Pobeda”, “Vostok”, “Chaika”, “Luch”, “Polyot” - all these names are familiar even to those who are far from collecting watches. Moms and dads wore them, and grandparents could have received such watches as a reward for military or labor merits. Collecting wristwatches from the USSR especially highlights the following, the most interesting brands of a certain year of manufacture for collectors:

"Victory" produced in 1946;
“Rodina” - the first self-winding models produced in 1956;
chronometers with the “Flight” signal, manufactured in 1959;
Among the rare models of women's wristwatches, one should especially highlight the miniature watch “Zarya” from the Moscow Watch Factory, produced in 1955;
and, of course, “Komandirskie” - reliable, practical, distinguished by a holistic design and well-thought-out ergonomics of the case.

“Commander” watches were not mass-produced - they were created specifically for the Ministry of Defense of the Soviet Union

Where to start collecting watches?

For many collectors, purchasing rare and unique watches from different eras and countries becomes not just a hobby, but even the meaning of life. The purposes of such collecting can be completely different. For example, scientific or historical activity, placement of personal capital, compilation of family collections that could be passed on from generation to generation, prestige and respect of friends, etc.

Scope and contents of such collections often directly depend on the financial capabilities of their owners, when purchasing unique items, it is recommended to focus on the Price Guide to Watch price list published annually in the USA. Beginners are recommended to search for information - specialized books and magazines, museums, exhibitions and auctions will help determine the era of future items in the collection, models and cost.

Original collectible watches

The most accessible watches for the initial stage are those from the Soviet period; as the collection grows, you can move on to more expensive Japanese models, military military watches, “amphibians” of old editions and military chronographs and designer pieces, the cost of which exceeds thousands and tens of thousands of dollars and euros.

"The Golden Age of Watchmaking" corresponds to the period of the 1950-1970s: most models of that time were assembled by craftsmen by hand, and therefore the quality and accuracy of the mechanisms were at a premium the highest level. In the pre-quartz period (1960-1970) so-called tuning fork and electromechanical watches were produced - there were few of these transitional models, and therefore to this day many collectors dream of getting such an interesting piece into their collection.

Electromechanical table clock

Both beginners and experienced collectors pay attention, of course, not only to the brand itself and the origin of the watch, but also on the originality of each copy: every detail must be authentic, since replacing even a minor element with a non-original one significantly reduces the cost of the entire item. Reputable auction houses carefully monitor such moments and, if there is a non-original element in the watch, they may demand the return of the purchase amount, taking into account moral damages.

Let us note that experts in the field of watch collections have observed a certain trend: watches from vintage periods are slowly but surely losing their appeal to collectors. Newcomers to collecting are increasingly prefer modern models of unusual designs, since they can be a successful investment, and will only increase in value over time.