Step-by-step instructions for the game world of tank. Pre-battle instructions. Filling CO2 tanks

It makes no sense to consider the instructions for equipment. The same will be fair as in the case of We suggest that you carefully read the complete guide on application and use, as well as on the choice of pre-battle instructions applicable in World of Tanks. An immediate answer to the main question: “ How long are the WTO pre-combat instructions valid?"- one fight as a consumable.

Cost: 2 coupons/ per battle.

One of the best instructions. The main advantage is low price... If you decide to finish off 3 marks on a notoriously burning tank, battles 15-20 will cost you inexpensively 30-40 bonds - this is a penny in any case. IMHO the author: 3 marks are not taken on the fire extinguisher.

Of course, they are taken on any lowliness, where you can fill 99% without straining (t-34 / kV-1, sixes, sevens). But if you decide to take on 62а / 140/121 - the instruction is required. Even if you are a top nibbler, almost a strike will make life much easier.

With some skill, the aforementioned tanks can be stably set on fire from the second shot in the forehead, even without any cheating "skins" with the location of the tanks. It's a simple matter in general. And the doppayok \u200b\u200bstill gives too much boost

Usefulness of the instruction: 8/10

If you do not delve into the intricacies of the perk mechanics, in a nutshell, it is worth saying that the extinguishing speed does not directly affect the amount of HP lost in a fire. In numbers it will be like this:

Burnout HP in case of fire without instruction: ~ 1000 HP
Burnout HP in case of fire with instructions: ~ 400 HP

A very noticeable increase, which will save you every few battles on all sorts of "hot cars" at an insignificant cost. It is worth taking first of all when you need to win back good streakwhere defeat will throw you back significantly. That is, it is not very useful for, for example, the "March of Nations" and on some tanks it is obligatory in ranked / when taking 3 marks.

Cost: 4 coupons/ per battle.

The main thing: it is recommended to be used together with the crew perk and exploded in 500+ vision. Guys ... You can do dirt with this. Fans of wild explosions on LT will appreciate it. It will go perfectly on some PDM-th LT on which hands, bitch, and reach out to fly in and start wrinkling asses with a clumsy reckless PT or "favorite artokotics".

Usefulness of the instruction: 6/10

The explosion didn't roll - it's okay, you turn into a sighted corpse. And then the question: WHO, YOUR MOTHER, CAN EXPECT SUCH IN RANDOM? A couple of tanks stood in the bushes, waiting for the LT to be shot and drove off -Surprise Motherfucker !!!

As you wish, and the author will definitely try it when there is a suitable LT in the hangar (now only t49). One thing saddens - in my opinion the perk looked as cool as possible on an old bulldog with a drum for 10 .. But his ... more .. no .. (a minute of silence in memory of the deceased)

Well, it should be said that the instruction on some LT will help to take 3 marks. Especially if you are a furious berserker who cannot stand in the bush for the whole fight and constantly breaks into an ololo rush under the lezginka.

Usefulness of the instruction: 7/10

The instruction is more fun. I lost 10 battles with her and I think he was a bit of an opponent, to put it mildly, he became mocked. (Immediately there is a guy like Jova who hits Claudia with "Daakakaak ??? Well I answered! Cheats with ** a!)

The instruction is mostly fun, but the author cannot vouch here for it is not PT-water. I downloaded one branch of the PT, which is actually at level 7 in fact ST, 8,9,10 - TT (well, you guessed which one). But profile steals asassins on borscht may use the instructions for bending over. In any case, the cost is cheap.

Cost: 10 Bonds / per battle.

The most important thing to say right away: Without sudden movements \u003e\u003e The subtleties of the checkpoint.

The perk for turning the tower is more useful simply due to the fact that at one time specialists such as the former head of the department for the removal of chromosomes (Vader) - the perks are completely Chechen balanced. A smooth turret rotation for 95% of tanks will be clearly more useful than a smooth ride. 5% include tanks with an already gorgeous stub from the turret rotation.

Usefulness of the instruction:

"Turn of the tower": 4- 8 /10

explanation: this analysis, depending on the tank, again. On some it is almost not felt, on some of the universal "plantain". See performance characteristics to get everything from the tank.

"Smooth running" 3/10

explanation: the original perk is weak, the legacy of the cerebral palsy developers of the type who now live in the trash heap, Veider.

The instructions are strictly not recommended for players who do not check the detailed performance characteristics of the tanks before setting up the tank. Not knowing the stabilization values \u200b\u200band reference numbers. If numbers like 0.12 0.12 0.09 don't tell you anything (it's a bad stub or a good one, etc.), then it's better not to waste 10 bonds per battle.

An interesting use case "Without sudden movements" on everyone's favorite T49.

Most of the players are aware of his, to put it mildly, small problems with the stub from the tower rotation. Because of this, you have to ride with the PKM clamped and rotate the hull with the fixed turret to shoot in the other direction. The instructions are much more pleasant to play with. (By the way, a question to those who have not yet pumped it in: P O W E M U? Divine chariot 11/10)

In general, specific instructions. Given their high cost, it is best to use it wisely.

We can say - too expensive. Yes, this perk will help if your commander is not pumped, but is it worth it? It is clearly better to spend precious, scarce bonds in order to play at the "maximum assembly" on specialized tanks where there are already 4-5 perk crews.

Usefulness of the instruction: 2 /10

A reinforced light bulb " -1 second response time ”is too situational a thing. The likelihood that this will help out in battle is not very high. Good players have a rough idea of \u200b\u200balways when they show up and when they don't. The very presence of a light bulb helps more in battle.

You shoot, you start to roll back and - voila, the lamp does not light up, since the tank at which you shot the crew was trained in imbeciles and there were no LT in the bushes nearby. It helps to shoot fools for free.

And the fools who, after the shot, stand on the fool and do not drive away, hoping, hell, understand what - nothing will help.

Cost: 6 coupons/ per battle.

Important: we use only in conjunction with the pumped-in perk "contactless BC".

Just one word. CENTURION.

If the centurion (or his premier clone named after the song of a metal gay group) you really like and want to bend / take 3 marks - this instruction is for you.

Lovers of dissection will also appreciate (Yes, yes, there are such perverts. The author is among them.)

Usefulness of the instruction: 4 /10

These are 2 of the tanks that suffer most from the damaged BC, but besides them there are a dozen of tanks that will enter normally (a pilot, for example). Well, a very specific choice, it will go to individual rare tanks.

Cost: 8 bonds/ per battle.

Just great instruction! Will make fans of skating "on rails", the French (ART-ACS here, if you are not an autist, who plays with 1 hand and does not move, but uses a dyno, up to dashing turns at close range at the end of the battle), most TTs, reckless PTs ... Maneuverability does not interfere with any tank, and for some it does not interfere with it.

Usefulness of the instruction: 8/10

A very tangible bonus. Quite suitable as “ economy option"Instead of smart instructions for ventilation (prices for which bite - 12 bonds per battle)

Cost: 12 bonds/ per battle.

Good instruction, if not for its cost.

Plus there are nuances. Disguise (normal crew-equipped) gains ventilation / brotherhood / ration bonuses. From the instructions it is given simply as from 100% perk for one crew member, 15 percent less than if indeed 1 crew member without disguise would have it pumped.

Usefulness of the instruction: 4 /10

It would make sense on some Bat with a 5-perk crew to get + 10% to the maximum and accelerate the cloaking completely, but the instructions for ventilation will be more useful for the Bat (which will also give an increase to cloaking, 3 times less, but besides this a bunch of bonuses to everything in a row for little things) or instructions for a stub (more details in the last article).

And so with most tanks. For 12 bonds almost always, in 95% of cases there will be an instruction cheaper / more useful / cheaper + more useful.

In general, a specific choice, for some LT, PT.

Greetings, my young friend! Surely in the fields battles World of Tanks you faced stealth pikhote, that is, ugh, with stealth tanks that killed you with impunity from invisibility. After spending own investigation, you could find out that the invisibles are actually anti-tank self-propelled guns (in common parlance PT), which simply rule Nipadets. And you also decided to steer in Nipa, having bought yourself a Panzerjager I or AT-1. But pagadi, my young friend! On the way to YagdTiger and ISU there are many pitfalls awaiting you, not taking into account which you will turn from a stealth nogebator into a nestels-debauched one. Therefore, to enter your first PT fight as a meganogebator, you just need to read this quick guide! Agree, this is a very small fee for turning into a folder.
And - enough bukf, let's get down to the point.

crazy hands

The battle, or rather, preparation for the battle for the PT begins in the hangar. According to the requirements of the rules road traffic, each car in the WoT must have a fire extinguisher, a first aid kit and a sign "Caution, art works!" But, since the developers promise to introduce the sign only in two thousand, some year, it makes sense to take a repair kit instead. Soviet people (in the sense, the owners of Soviet AT) can go even further and grossly violate traffic rules by replacing the fire extinguisher with a removed engine speed limiter. It allows you to turn a self-propelled gun into a wheelbarrow for drag racing for a while, quickly dispering it from its place. This helps a lot at the very beginning of the game, when you need to quickly get into position, as well as directly during the battle: when moving from cover to cover, in close maneuvering combat, as well as when accelerating after stopping for shooting. Do not forget to only use the removed limiter on business - removed without work (for example, turned on at a long stop), it will quickly damage the engine with a crust canopy on it, which is not necessary at all.

In order to buy and install equipment, you need to poke the mouse on the empty squares to the right of the shells squares: the last three will be the desired ones. Throwing everything bought into the trunk of a tank in a bunch is bad, it is better to arrange everything according to the following system (from left to right): fire extinguisher / removed limiter, repair kit, first aid kit. Why so, and not Feng Shui? Here we will smoothly move on to the next point: know and be able to quickly repair and heal. Sometimes an instantly repaired module or a healed tanker allows you to emerge victorious from a duel and even make a game.

With this arrangement, a fire extinguisher or a removed limiter is activated by pressing button 4, which can be conveniently and easily reached with the index finger. More precisely, you can only turn on and off the limiter, since the fire extinguisher is triggered automatically in the event of a fire.

On the button 5, respectively, there is a repair kit. The sacred meaning of the number 5 is that double-clicking on it repairs a downed caterpillar! Therefore, having learned the magic combination "5-5", you will be able to repair and become combat-ready in less than a second. Of the rest of the manipulations with the repair kit, it is worth noting "5-3" (repairing the gun) and "5-1" (engine). Everything else can be repaired slowly, thoughtfully and in a safe place, or you can not fix it, leaving the repair kit in reserve.

The situation is exactly the same with the first aid kit. You need to learn the combinations "6-3" (gunner), "6-2" (driver) and "6-1" (commander). The gunner should be treated if you intend to shoot further at a distance exceeding 50 meters; the driver must be healed in close combat (otherwise you will be torn apart by tanks that drove into the stern); finally, the commander can be healed if the gunner is not wounded, and you need to shoot into the distance - otherwise you will be firing to the touch with a wounded observer.

Kill, nogebay, wait for the return beep!

But let's continue preparing for the battle. While you are sitting in line for a game, you need to look at the keyboard and firmly type the designation of the F7 button in your brain. Previously, in the super-alpha test, when you press this key, air support was called up, and the planes that arrived would crumble your offenders into mush. After the release, the developers removed the air support, mockingly leaving a message in the chat "Need help!" When you click on the button. So, nowadays for tankers, especially beginners, this button replaces air support, three green whistles up, and even an action bolt of level 89, since it allows you to make it clear to the tanks hiding behind you that something is wrong. The message "Help is needed!" from you, undoubtedly, this very help will be attracted: teammates in a flock will come running to take a free frag, which recklessly shoots you from the stern and therefore does not see anything around.

Also try to remember legend machines present in battle above each of them. The square means the most desired target, since it is self-propelled artillery. The triangle means your fellows in misfortune, in the sense of PT. Solid rhombus - light tank, a diamond with one line - middle, a diamond with two lines - well, nafig it. At first, beware of cars with a diamond with two lines, because a heavy tank can kill with one hit.

But here it is - the first battle on an anti-tank self-propelled gun! Under the voice of a gopnik from Mytishchi, "The battle begins!" boldly, at full speed, rush into the nearest bushes. Sit in them for at least half of the battle: if everything goes well, the team will win without you, and if everything goes badly, the enemies will come to you.

To properly hide in the bushes, draw an imaginary line. One extreme point on it should be you, the second extreme - the enemy, and between you there should be a bush, from which no part of your car should protrude, except for the trunk. Only then will the game engine grant you the coveted stealth pihot, that is, ugh, invisibility.

Shooting at cars with red markers (and you need to shoot at them, despite the fact that it is easier to hit cars with green markers - alas, these are the stupid conventions of the WoT world) should be done only with auto-aim. The auto sight is such a gadget, as in aviation, it tracks the movement of the target and automatically aims the cannon at it. To turn on the auto-aim, you need to poke on the enemy right click mouse and wait for the message “Target captured!”. Clicking the right mouse button on an enemy vehicle will turn off the auto-aim, which is duplicated by the message “Target lost!”. Do not forget to turn off the auto-sight if the target is no longer of interest to you, otherwise the self-propelled gun will write out intricate maneuvers, trying to turn towards the enemy.

Despite the fact that half of the work is already being done for you (the weapon is guided by itself), in order to hit, you will have to work personally. In order for the spear to hit the target, you need to wait until the sight is fully converged (that is, the aiming circle becomes the minimum diameter) and until the target marker coincides with the sight marker.

A little later, when you start researching new guns, the question will arise: what type of shells to shoot (at first, it did not stand: firstly, the noobs do not even know about this issue, and secondly, at the first levels, the enemies have enough armor-piercing )? Discard this question as insignificant and shoot exclusively with land mines (high-explosive fragmentation shells, HE). This feint has several advantages. Firstly, the amount of penetration of armor by an armor-piercing projectile decreases depending on the distance - and does not drop for land mines. Secondly, an armor-piercing projectile can ricochet or not pierce - and with land mines, such cases can be counted on one hand. And, thirdly, when a land mine hits, it will always cause damage to absolutely any enemy (even if you miss, there is a chance to hit the enemy with a blast wave) - but with armor-piercing, everything is not so simple. Therefore, fill the ammo rack with land mines and do not worry.

If we got to research (and what else to do with experience), then I will say a few words about them. For self-propelled gunners, the first thing to do is to examine the chassis, since the hulking self-propelled gun resembles a paralytic at an R'n'B party. Next, open the weapons (the main weapon for producing frags, exp and credits), then the engine and, last of all, the radio. Observance of just this order will allow you to fuck up - at first, of course, only tractors. And in order to hit not only tractors, you need to move on to the study of the next section of PTVod, which will upgrade your knowledge to a higher level.

Straight hand driver

In this section, together with you, we will be engaged in pumping hands - after all, as you know, nothing, like PT, checks the straightness of the limbs.

Move around the terrain only with throws from cover to cover, for the fastest acceleration using the removed speed limiter (Soviet PTs) or obscene language (German PTs). In open spaces, move in a straight line, but the segments of these very straight lines must be calculated so that during the movement you are covered from the enemy by some obstacle: a bush, a hill, a house, a fence, the corpse of an opponent, finally. This will make it harder for the enemy to knock you out at the most inopportune time - while moving.

If while driving there is a risk of artillery fire or something terrible has happened - they are already hammering at you, move along a curve, and not symmetrical, otherwise, on the next bend, a suitcase will fly to you from the arts that cut through your maneuvers. But it's not worth constantly wagging like a Marquitan boat - the speed decreases at turns, which, again, makes the task of artillery easier. Alternate motion in a straight line with writing out sinusoids.

In the most difficult situation - the arts are hammering at you while you shoot in close combat - you need to act as follows. Fight as usual (as usual to fight in this case, I will write below), and after the death of the enemy, take 5 seconds to ritual dances. Ritual dances performed by PT consist in sharp acceleration and deceleration, turning in all directions, alternating movement back and forth. This is done so that the art does not estimate the trajectory of your straightforward movement from the corpse of your teammate, does not take a lead and does not bang you even after the light has disappeared.

But artillery is not all that threatens the harsh gunfighter on PT. Sometimes you will find yourself in a situation where a whole group of enemy vehicles is very close, which you won't be able to kill quickly, but they will succeed very well. Let's leave the heroic death to the noobs and choose one of two options for the development of events. Option one: by maneuvering as described above, you drive past enemies at full speed. They can spit on you and stay on fire with your teammates (great!), Or they can turn around and set off in pursuit. Which is also great, since it will allow you to add bi-charges and piripalos to the enemy ranks, and also allow your partners to quickly shoot enemy vehicles at the sides and stern.

Option number two is to quickly change the sail, turn and move again on maximum speed perpendicular to the enemy's imaginary line of defense. In this case, it is difficult to hit you and you can, having described a wide arc, return to the starting position again, side by side with your teammates. Yes, if it is worth it to shoot while acting on both options, then only without reducing the speed, point-blank, since you simply will not hit a distant target with an unmoved sight.

"But if I shoot, then the ball will deteriorate?"

In general, you should shoot from a PT only from a stop, after full details sight. This requires strong nerves, which is why those with projectile incontinence often do not stand the test of self-propelled guns. In close combat, oddly enough, you need to shoot in the same way - from a stop and complete (or almost complete) information. But there is one bold nuance - you have to move between shots! A simple backward or forward movement will do. This allows you to knock out the sight of art and even tanks that are aiming manually. It is necessary to stop the car in such a way that by the time of the end of reloading the sight is already completely flattened and it remains only to launch the descent.

By the way, about the descent. If the noobs, as we saw at the beginning of the guide, are smacking exclusively with land mines, the labor-dealers use the entire palette of shells. Let's leave aside the "golden bullets" (in fact, these are improved armor-piercing shells) and once again take a closer look at the good old BB and HE. When should you use both?

Armor-piercing, as the name implies, are called upon by all means to pierce the enemy's skin and inflict damage on him. Landmines, on the contrary - when they explode on armor, they inflict so-called armor damage. But, since the thickness of the armor affects the amount of armor-piercing damage, sometimes a hit with a land mine removes a much smaller percentage of lives than an hit with an armor-piercing projectile. From all this it follows that vehicles of the same level with you or less should be watered with armor-piercing, vehicles a level or two higher - in combination, the tops will have to be processed only with land mines, occasionally firing BB into the loin parts. The combined work of the BB-OF is as follows: having heard once again “I didn’t hit it!”, We load a land mine into the breech and then work on the target only with it - we don’t need non-penetration when you are about to be killed. With experience, you will learn to distinguish what these or those enemies look like, and you will immediately fire at them with the correct type of shells.

It will also be useful to remind that land mines, unlike armor-piercing ones, do not lose damage depending on the distance, so shootings from respawn to respawn should be carried out only with land mines. There, even if you did not hit (which is not surprising - the distance is wow), you can hit the enemy with a blast wave.

Landmines should also be fired when you need a guaranteed damage, without any "Didn't hit!" or "Ricochet!" That is, you brought down the enemy with armor-piercing almost to zero - it's time to queue up a land mine and finish it off with it.

Finally, with land mines, and not armor-piercing ones, you need to shoot at vehicles with an open cabin. In this case, the PF often makes a one-shot, while the BB can be spent two or even three.

Shoot the point "G"!

I will tell you one more terrible secret that the PTShnik sensei revealed to me: you need to shoot not just at the enemy, but at especially vulnerable zones of the enemy. All cars, regardless of class vulnerabilities are: feed (thin armor increases the damage done and often hangs crit on the engine); the rear of the turret (the same, plus the chance to blow up the tank by hitting it in the ammo rack, which is usually located in this place in the turret); sides under the tower (the same as in the previous case); the junction of the tower and the hull (you can damage the rotation mechanism of the tower, which will jam in a funny position); gun mask (chance to damage the gun); finally, caterpillars (immobilizing the enemy). Shooting at caterpillars for a PTShnik should generally become a conditioned reflex, since in this way you can easily kick an enemy tank in close combat. Therefore, practice hitting a moving tank in the middle of the hull side - firstly, it is the easiest to get there, secondly, you will almost always hit a caterpillar, and, thirdly, an ammunition stowage explosion is possible.

Let's continue the subject of shooting. If the noobs, which you and I used to be, shoot exclusively from auto-sight, but labor-nogebators alternate such shooting with aiming with their hands. The algorithm is simple: at long distances you use an auto-aim, in close combat and in a battle with fast-moving tanks you shoot from your hands. Good shooting with a stick works in the good old way of shooting: you mark the point that our Schumacher must cross, wait for the sighting and, taking into account the lead, press the descent.

Sniper mode shooting, which pops out when you press Shift and which was almost never used before (on auto-aim and in close combat, it is not needed), in the tru-nogebator mode suddenly makes sense. You need to look into the sight in two cases: when only a piece is visible from the enemy behind an obstacle, which you need to aim at manually, or when you shoot at a car with which your teammate is carouseling. In the latter case, a peep is needed in order not to accidentally kill your own - after all, 300-400 meters away, you can see who is there in your this moment on auto-sight, it is very difficult.

Blood type

Now let's move on to the blood group, that is, to the tactics of actions in the group. Do not think that true-PT-nogebators act in the style of the lone wolf McQuade - this style is prescribed only for noobs. Competent work together with tanks is the guarantee of the team's victory.

In order to win competently, first of all, the PTVod must attend to the problem of light. If the tanks have more or less learned how to shine for six months of the game, the need to shine anti-tank self-propelled guns for the overwhelming majority is a revelation. Therefore, do not hesitate, ask your teammates to light up the tanks in the chat, including the "one-to-one indignation" mode at the sight of light tanks behind you in the bushes. Moreover - do not hesitate to shine your own light on your heavy tanks and heavy tank destroyers - believe me, with your light they will scold enemies faster and more than you.

Since the light in the game, alas, is not eternal, you need to cherish every second of it. To do this, follow the fireflies in about two cells and ask them not to portray the Moscow minibus if they are too far away.

Since firefly culture and education requires a lot of scribbling in chat, learn to write on the fly, while on the move. To do this, outline the route, press the R button three times and write down how much you will fit. If everything is very bad, then you will have to press the F button three times, which provides reverse movement. Do not forget in this case to tell in detail what you think about light, art, balance and developers.

Moving on to the def art (defense of artillery self-propelled guns). In general, def art is not the business of PTs, who should be engaged in their direct duties - to destroy enemy tanks. But, since most of the tanks of your team will immediately go into a rush, meaningless and merciless, and also since the PT positions at the beginning of the game are close to the positions of the artifacts, it is most likely that you will have to deflect them. Correct def art by PT efforts is very simple: you need to stand in the bushes at least 2 cells away from them (in general, the further the better) and hide. Thus, you ensure the exposure of enemies and give time to the arts themselves to deal with opponents hungry for a defenseless artillery body.

Finally, let's figure out how a labor-nogebator pumps a self-propelled vehicle crew and what equipment he carries with him. Let's start in order. First of all, a true nogebator for credits, or even for gold, pumps the gunner, then the loader, then the commander. It would be nice, of course, to pump the entire crew at once, but this is not always available from the very beginning of the game. Of the perks (skills), self-propelled guns are amicable and the whole crew is pumping a disguise, and the second is being repaired. Occasionally, one of the second perks can be given to firefighting.

As for the equipment, at the earliest opportunity a mask is installed on the machine. When used correctly (see competent diving in the bushes), it gives great advantageturning a self-propelled gun into a stealth tank. However, it should be remembered that the grid "turns on" only 5 seconds after the PT froze, and the effect of it disappears immediately after the tank is moved by the hull. However, if you have learned the advice at the beginning of the manual, you will choose a position so that you do not need to move the body.

The second module, which all tubulars have, is a stereoscopic tube. It allows you to raise the view from a stationary tank up to 500 meters (the principle of operation of the pipe is exactly the same as that of the network), which will allow you to notice the enemy and zoom in on him long before he notices you. In addition, this will allow you to shoot from the greatest possible distances, since without a pipe it is not uncommon for a situation when there is a flare on the mini-map, but the enemies themselves are not visible.

The third module, I would advise to put a rammer, since it is universal. Just remember that if the mesh and pipe can be moved from machine to machine, this trick will not work with the rammer. You can replace it with another module only by selling the old car (with a rammer) and buying a new one.

How to kill bill

Well, my young friend, here you have turned from a noob into a tru-nebator and already have a PT of one of the last levels. But how to conquer the greatest peaks of the self-propelled craft? How do you turn from a trudnogebator into a folder? How to kill Bill, who is behind Slava Makarov and who is the weakest link? These questions and more can be answered by reading the final few paragraphs of this invaluable guide.

So, in order to kill Bill and many others on the American server, preparation for the battle, as always, should be started even before the start of it. That is, during the announcement of the composition of the teams. Observing the alignment, try to predict the initial actions of the enemy. If the enemy has few heavy weights and you have good artillery, they will most likely move along the path least exposed to artillery fire (along the embankment in Prokhorovka, in the gorge in Karelia, and so on). The enemy has a lot of medium tanks, especially the top ones - it is quite possible that they will all go to the rush together. The enemy has a lot of AT - which means that with almost 100% probability they will represent def. The enemy has a lot of art - in the open space you need to prepare to wag, like the entire PQ-17 convoy put together, so as not to repeat his fate. The enemy has crap art - only rush will save the father of Russian democracy. The enemy has enough light, which means that you first need to help and shoot uninvited guests so that the enemy does not use his crap art in full. And so on and so forth - having foreseen the enemy's tactics and outlining the contours of your own actions, you go one step ahead, which means that this is a weighty claim for victory. Based on the conclusions, take optimal positions and meet the enemy fully armed.

The next tip is to watch the minimap. It is on it that tanks are indicated, creeping up to you from behind, flanking rounds and a general arctic fox. Since the TD in ambush has time to carefully examine the minimap, do not be lazy to prompt your teammates by highlighting the squares and accompanying them with stones of the "IS, 48%" type. Just don't forget that whoever quickly poked at the card a hundred times is gay. Better be a folder, not gay.

Try to coordinate the fire of your teammates. An amazing thing - in "Starcraft" the players felt with their spinal cord that all units should be given the command to bring down enemies one by one - and in WoT for some reason they forgot how to do this. Do not miss the chance to let them remember everything and press the T button when you hover the cursor over the target - perhaps someone, seeing that you are hitting the highlighted tank, will join you. With a concentrated fire, even the tops burst quickly and ridiculously, just like the BT-2 from being hit by the Bizon.

Goal Priorities. Since you are already five minutes away from the folder (in the game, of course, although if you didn’t protect yourself ...), and not a nubas, you understand that when Fedya rushes after the firefly, it gives him a hell of a noob. So learn to prioritize goals. The first step and always need to shoot at the exposed artillery - in this case, act as lightning fast as Riki-Tiki-Tavi at the sight of a snake. Do not forget to queue up a land mine, if you shoot with an armor-piercing one - you may not hit the target with the first shot, and, as we remember, you need to shoot the artov with land mines.

Then a difficult problem should be solved. On the one hand, it is easy to kill slow or worthwhile targets - this is the sin of PT and enemy heavyweights. On the other hand, it is also not worth picking up frags on enemy Hetzers while the T-44s are dismantling your art. Therefore, the priority can be formulated as follows: if there are no special circumstances, the shooting is primarily carried out at standing or slowly moving targets with small course angles. Moreover, first, it is necessary to wet the fellow-PTs, which, due to their low silhouette and powerful cannon pose a great threat to teammates.

Let's move on to an indispensable element of almost any battle - close combat. In close combat, try to stay as far away from the enemy vehicle as possible, moving in reverse for this. If you can, remove the caterpillars from the enemy, which will transfer him to the category of a fixed fatty target. When fighting with cars that are much lower than you in level, feel free to use the ram - it will help save the projectile and remove the danger. Also use the ram if the enemy came close - butting with the enemy, you will be sure that you will always turn towards him with a cannon and powerful frontal armor. Again, when ramming into the side, you remove the caterpillar from the enemy.

If it has not yet come to gore and the enemy is cutting circles around - do not wait until your head starts spinning and you vomit. Apply anti-twist - firstly, stop spinning in one place and hold down the S button. Secondly, if the enemy is already on its tail and it is very difficult to throw it off, suddenly start moving in opposite side, and even with forward acceleration. Since now you and the enemy are spinning towards each other, he may lose control and fly right under your gun, or this will force him to brake and, losing precious seconds, accelerate in the other direction. Third, try to stay close to any obstacle that the enemy circling around you must stick into. Leaning astern against it should be done with caution: an insidious foe can gently rub against you side by side, nullifying all your attempts not to die.

the end

Well, that's all, my young friend! Now, after reading this guide, you have turned from a noob into a mega-folder, which will surely conquer the 101st line of the rating (the first hundred are still occupied by the collective accounts of sad nerd donators). With pride, carry the PT-water banner into the light and remember: someday we will take over the whole world!

Hello tanker! In this article, I will briefly describe my recommendations for what to do and what not. If you want to play competently, read more and watch the guides.

Immediately set up your computer so that it is pleasant to play without freezes and delays (it is desirable that the FPS does not fall below 25), sacrifice some of the effects to raise your efficiency. If your computer is weak, read the article "", it will help you.

Choose the branch that you will swing, wisely and immediately, so that later you do not get sprayed and get lost in the choice. Decide which game you prefer, light tanks (LT) - fast and sharp, always on the edge, medium tanks (ST) - quick gamemore maneuverable than heavy tanks, but slower than light ones, anti-tank self-propelled artillery mounts (Tank destroyer) - play in the bushes, play for maximum damage, heavy tanks (TT) - the game is in the forefront, the backbone of the game is here, self-propelled artillery mounts (Self-propelled guns or art) - 70% of the time playing with one hand, for an amateur.

Reaching level 8 in the game there will be not enough credits, so leave either a level 5-6 tank (since they are the most profitable, you can read more in) in the hangar for farming (earning) credits, or buy a premium account every month, and if you want to save time, then buy yourself a premium tank, better than 8, I sincerely advise only 8 (before buying, decide carefully, the amount is not small 1-1.5k rubles).

In battle, do not try to be in the forefront, i.e. do not fly headlong, try to support your allies. Do not try to get into company battles before you have gained experience, good statistics (at least 5000 battles and 50% of victories). On the forum, do not try to ask questions that immediately arise in your head, as a rule they have already been asked more than once, use the search, otherwise the local trolls will teach you what you don’t need.

You play as a PT, try to occupy the bushes, and the bushes that are hidden by another bushes, this is the only way you can remain hidden after the shot. If you play for TT, you have to take a hit on yourself, but not always and not substitute. You play as a ST - try to maneuver, substitute more ricochet sides and help by highlighting the enemy a little. You play on LT - shine, your number one goal is to shine, a lot depends on you if you are on a light tank, you play well - an ally will support, the chance to win is higher; merged at the beginning of the battle - the ally plays blind if there is no other light. You play the art, honestly do not play the SPG, but I will advise you, do not shine, after each shot I position, otherwise you may be killed (sent to the hangar) by tracer.

In a clan, as a rule, high-quality players are needed who play with dedication, I advise you to gain experience, fights 5k +, stats 50% +, increase efficiency (although some stats are not important, but in fact, I believe, it plays an important role), a couple or three good TTs (even the top one, i.e. level 10 is better) and join the clan. And most importantly, every battle, try to survive, do not merge, as much as possible from you, never merge in the forefront, but do not constantly stand in the bushes, benefit from you should always be.

Here is an introductory briefing for a novice tanker or a beginner, whichever is more convenient for you. I think if I had this instruction for newbie World of TanksWhen I started, my efficiency would start to grow much earlier. Play with pleasure and do not replenish the ranks of deer, there are plenty of them in the World of Tanks.

During general test Update 9.19, many players have put a lot of effort into "Ranked Battles", fighting against an enemy whose strength increases with each rank gained. But, until the intensity of passions reached its climax (and this will surely happen when the beta season begins " Ranked battles”), You can relax and think about how best to spend the Bonds earned in the new mode.

Bonds (and only them!) Can be used to purchase pre-battle instructions and advanced equipment, which are used in both random and ranked battles, clan battles, tournaments, etc., increasing the efficiency of your vehicle and crew. And now for more details.

Advanced hardware

In Update 9.19, 6 types of advanced equipment will be available. They will work similarly to standard equipment, but with some differences: improved equipment will give a greater bonus to the parameters of the equipment on which it is installed, and also improved equipment has no classes. In addition, the simultaneous installation of standard and advanced equipment of the same type will not be possible. For example, it is impossible to simultaneously install the Rammer and the Experimental loading system on a vehicle. When preparing a car for battle, you will have to choose one thing.

• Powder gas removal system increases the level of mastery of the main specialty, as well as all the skills and abilities of the crew members by 7.5%.
• Stabilization equipment complex reduces dispersion when moving and when turning the turret by 25%.
• reduces reload time by 12.5%.
• Wear-resistant aiming drives increase the aiming speed by 12.5%.
• Adjusted optics increases the view radius by 12.5%, but not more than 445 m.
• Extended set of spare parts increases repair speed by 40%.

To install advanced equipment, simply left-click on the equipment slot in the Hangar and select the Advanced Equipment tab. Installed advanced equipment can be dismantled for 200 and re-installed on any machine that can be fitted with conventional equipment of this type. For example, C propellant gas removal system cannot be installed on vehicles with an open wheelhouse, but Experimental loading system Cannot be fitted to magazine-loaded vehicles such as the Bat.-Châtillon 25 t, etc.

Pre-battle instructions

In addition to advanced equipment, coupons can be used to purchase special personal reserves called pre-battle instructions: six to enhance equipment and nine to enhance the skills and abilities of the crew. One pre-battle instruction is valid for one battle. Depending on the type, the pre-battle instruction increases the vehicle's performance characteristics, enhances the learned or activates the unlearned skills / abilities of the crew.

Equipment pre-combat instructions enhance the effect of installed equipment... For example, you installed the Rammer, Stabilizer and Enlightened Optics. Then you activate the pre-battle instructions for any of the installed equipment - and in the next battle, the piece of equipment you have chosen will fulfill its role even more efficiently.

To install a pre-battle instruction, select the one you need and click on it - if there are enough coupons, it will be purchased. To avoid inadvertently wasting bonds on pre-battle instructions, the auto-recharge option is disabled by default. If necessary, it can be activated - at the same time, after the end of the battle, the pre-battle instruction that was used in the battle will be automatically replenished.

Depending on the type, the cost of advanced equipment ranges from 3,000 to 5,000, and pre-combat instructions from 2 to 12. Bonds will be credited at the end of each stage (their number depends on the rank received) and at the end of the season (the amount depends on the ranked position). For example, if you finish a stage at rank IV, you will receive 400. For rank III you will receive 300, for rank II - 200, and rank V will give you 500. If you stay at rank I, get 100. If you are among the top 10% of players in the ranking, you will receive 5,750. Players who hit the next 15% will receive 3250 each. And those who get into the next 25% will earn 1,500 each.

During the "Ranked Battles" beta season, we will closely monitor the statistics and your feedback on improved equipment and pre-battle instructions. We will analyze the collected information and, if necessary, change their cost, effect and terms of use. Of course, as always, we will keep you updated with any changes.

Now, after reviewing the new items that can be purchased with Bonds, it's time to concentrate before the start of the "Ranked Battles" beta season. Get ranked and earn Bonds to maximize your effectiveness in battle using pre-battle instructions and advanced equipment!