Step-by-step instructions for the game World of Tank. Pre-battle instructions. Filling CO2 tanks
There is no point in reviewing the equipment instructions. The same will be true as in the case of We suggest you carefully read the full guide on application and use, as well as on the selection of pre-battle instructions applicable in World of Tanks. Immediate answer to the main question: “ How long do VoT pre-combat instructions last?“—one fight, like a consumable item.
Price: 2 bonds/for the battle.
One of the best instructions. The main advantage is low price. If you decide to finish off 3 marks on a significantly burning tank, 15-20 battles will cost inexpensively 30-40 bonds - these are pennies in any case. IMHO of the author: 3 marks are not taken on a fire extinguisher.
Of course, they are taken at all sorts of low levels, where you can get 99% without straining (t-34/kv-1, sixes, sevens). But if you decide to take it to 62a/140/121, the instructions are required. Even if you are a top bender, almost a strike, this will make life much easier.
With some skill, the above-mentioned tanks can be reliably set on fire from the second shot in the forehead, even without any cheating “skins” with the location of the tanks. It's a simple matter in general. But the supplementary ration still gives too much boost
Usefulness of instructions: 8/10
Without delving into the intricacies of the mechanics of the perk, in a nutshell it’s worth saying that the speed of extinguishing does not directly affect the amount of HP lost in a fire. In numbers it will be like this:
Burnable HP in a fire without instructions: ~ 1000 HP
Burnable HP in case of fire with instructions: ~ 400 HP
A very noticeable increase that will save you every few battles on all sorts of “jarenwagens” at an insignificant cost. Worth taking first when you need to win back good series, where defeat will set you back significantly. That is, it is of little use for, for example, the “March of Nations” and in some tanks it is mandatory in ranked/when taking 3 marks.
Price: 4 bonds/ for the battle.
The main thing: it is recommended for use together with the crew’s perk and a 500+ review. Guys... You can make dirt with this. Fans of wild explosions on LT will appreciate it. It will go great on some kind of DPM LT on which the hands, bitch, are just tempting to fly in and start crushing the asses of the hulking, crazy PTs or “favorite artokats”.
Usefulness of instructions: 6/10
The explosion didn’t work - it’s okay, you turn into a sighted corpse. And here's the question: WHO THE FUCK CAN EXPECT THIS IN RANDOM? A couple of tanks stood in the bushes, waiting for the LT to be shot and then off we went -Surprise Motherfucker!!!
Whatever you want, the author will definitely try it when there is a suitable LT in the hangar (currently only T49). One thing is sad - in my opinion, the perk looked as cool as possible on an old bulldog with a drum at 10.. But he... is no longer... no more.. (a minute of silence in memory of the deceased)
Well, it’s worth saying that the instructions on some LTs will help you get 3 marks. Especially if you are a furious berserker who cannot stand in the bush for the entire battle and constantly breaks into an ololo rush under the lezginka.
Usefulness of instructions: 7/10
The instructions are more fun. I lost 10 fights with her and I think the enemy left her somewhat immoral, to put it mildly. (I immediately introduce myself to some guy like Jove, who beats the keyboard with “daakakaaak??? I answered! Cheats bitch!)
The instructions are mostly fan-made, but the author cannot vouch for this because it is not PT-water. I pumped up one branch of PT, which is actually at level 7 in ST, 8,9,10 - TT (well, you guessed which one). But specialized steals assassins on borscht can and will use the instructions for bending. In any case, the cost is cheap.
Cost: 10 bonds/per battle.
It’s worth saying the most important thing right away: No sudden movements >> Subtleties of the gearbox.
The perk for turning the tower is more useful simply due to the fact that at one time specialists like the former head of the department for fucking chromosomes (Vader) - the perks are completely Chechen-balanced. Smooth rotation of the turret for 95% of tanks will be clearly more useful than smooth movement. 5% includes tanks with an already excellent stub from the rotation of the turret.
Usefulness of instructions:
"turret rotation": 4- 8 /10
clarification: this analysis, again, depends on the tank. On some it is almost not felt, on some it is a universal “plantain”. Look at the technical specifications to get everything from the tank.
"smooth ride" 3/10
clarification: the original perk is weak, a legacy of cerebral palsy developers like Veider, who is now dead in the trash heap.
The instructions are strictly not recommended for players who do not check the detailed performance characteristics of tanks before setting up the tank. Without knowing the stabilization values and reference numbers. If numbers like 0.12 0.12 0.09 don’t tell you anything (whether this is a bad stub or a good one, etc.), then it’s better not to waste as many as 10 bonds per battle.
An interesting option for using “No sudden movements” on everyone’s favorite T49.
Most players are aware of his, to put it mildly, minor problems with the stub from turning the tower. Because of this, you have to drive with the RMB held down and turn the body with the fixed turret in order to shoot in the other direction. With instructions it is much more enjoyable to play with. (By the way, a question for those who haven’t downloaded it yet: WHY? Divine Chariot 11/10)
In general, specific instructions. Considering their high cost, it is better to use them wisely.
You could say it's too expensive. Yes, this perk will help if your commander is not leveled up, but is it worth it? It’s clearly better to spend precious, scarce bonds to play at the “maximum build” on specialized tanks that already have 4-5 perk crew.
Usefulness of instructions: 2 /10
And the amplified light bulb " -1 second response time" is too situational. The likelihood that this will help in battle is not too high. Good players They always roughly imagine when they will light up and when they won’t. The very presence of a light bulb helps more in battle.
You shoot, you start to roll away and - voila, the lamp doesn’t light up, because the tank you were shooting at had a crew trained as imbeciles and there weren’t any light tanks in the bushes nearby. This helps to shoot fools for free.
And for the fools who, after a shot, stand like a fool and don’t move away, hoping, God knows what, nothing will help.
Price: 6 bonds/ for the battle.
Important: We use it only in conjunction with the pumped-in “contactless BC” perk.
Just one word. CENTURION.
If you really like Centurion (or its premium clone named after the song of a gay metal band) and want to bend down/take 3 marks, this instruction is for you.
Those who like to dissect will also appreciate it (Yes, yes, there are such perverts. The author is among them.)
Usefulness of instructions: 4 /10
These are the 2 tanks that suffer most from a damaged BC, but besides them there are a dozen tanks that will do fine (the pilot for example). Well, a very specific choice, it will suit some rare tanks.
Price: 8 bonds/for the battle.
Simply great instructions! It will make fans of riding “on rails”, the French (ART-SAU here, if you are not an autist who plays with 1 hand and does not move, but uses the dynamo, right up to the dashing distribution of spinners at point-blank range at the end of the battle), most TTs, crazy tanks . Maneuverability doesn’t interfere with any tank, but for some it doesn’t really bother it at all.
Usefulness of instructions: 8/10
A very noticeable bonus. Quite suitable as " economy option"instead of smart instructions for ventilation (prices for which are staggering - 12 bonds per battle)
Price: 12 bonds/ for the battle.
Good instructions, if not for its cost.
Plus there are nuances. Camouflage (the usual one pumped up by the crew) receives bonuses from ventilation/combat brotherhood/rations. The instructions are given simply as 100% of the perk for one crew member, 15 percent less than if 1 crew member without camouflage actually had it pumped in.
Usefulness of instructions: 4 /10
It would make sense on some Bat with a 5-perk crew to get +10% to the maximum and increase camouflage completely, but for the same Bat it would be more useful to have instructions for ventilation (which will also give an increase to camouflage, 3 times less, but besides that there are also a bunch of bonuses for everything, little things) or instructions for the stabilization (more details in the previous article).
And so it is with most tanks. For 12 bonds, almost always, in 95% of cases, you will find instructions that are cheaper/more useful/cheaper+more useful.
In general, a specific choice for some LT, PT.
Greetings, my young friend! Surely in the fields battles World of Tanks you were faced with stealth infantry, that is, ugh, with stealth tanks that killed you with impunity from invisibility. After spending own investigation, you might discover that invisible guns are actually anti-tank self-propelled guns (in common parlance, anti-tank guns), which simply drive like hell. And you decided to also steer like crazy by buying yourself a Panzerjager I or AT-1. But pagadi, my young friend! On the way to the JagdTiger and the ISU, many pitfalls await you, without taking into account which you will turn from a stealth-nogebator into a non-stealth-nogebator. Therefore, to enter your first battle on a PT as a meganogebator, all you need to do is read this short guide! Agree, this is a very small price to pay for turning into a folder.
And - enough babble, let's get to the point.
crazy hands
The battle, or rather, preparation for battle for the PT begins in the hangar. According to the requirements of the rules traffic, every car in WoT must have a fire extinguisher, a first aid kit and a sign “Caution, art is working!”. But, since the developers promise to introduce the sign only in two thousand some year, it makes sense to take a repair kit instead. Soviet people (meaning, owners of Soviet PTs) can go even further and flagrantly violate traffic rules by replacing the fire extinguisher with a removed engine speed limiter. It allows you to turn a self-propelled gun into a drag racing car for a while, quickly accelerating it from a standstill. This helps a lot at the very beginning of the game, when you need to quickly get into position, as well as directly during the battle: when moving from cover to cover, in close maneuver combat, as well as when accelerating after stopping to fire. Just remember to use the removed limiter for the purpose - if removed idlely (for example, turned on during a long stop), it will quickly damage the engine and cause a critical attack on it, which is completely unnecessary.
In order to buy and install equipment, you need to click with the mouse on the empty squares to the right of the shell squares: the outer three will be the ones you are looking for. Throwing everything purchased into the trunk of a tank in a heap is bad; it is better to arrange everything according to the following system (from left to right): fire extinguisher / removed limiter, repair kit, first aid kit. Why this way, and not according to Feng Shui? Here we will smoothly move on to the next point: know and be able to quickly repair and treat. Sometimes an instantly repaired module or a healed tanker allows you to emerge victorious from a duel and even make a game.
The fire extinguisher or the removed limiter in this arrangement is activated by pressing button 4, which can be conveniently and easily reached with your index finger. More precisely, you will only be able to turn the limiter on and off, since the fire extinguisher works automatically in the event of a fire.
On button 5, accordingly, the repair kit is located. The sacred meaning of the number 5 is that double-clicking on it repairs a broken caterpillar! Therefore, by learning the magic combination "5-5", you can repair yourself and become combat-ready in less than a second. Of the remaining manipulations with the repair kit, it is worth noting “5-3” (repairing the gun) and “5-1” (engine). Everything else can be repaired slowly, thoughtfully and in a safe place, or you can not repair it, leaving the repair kit in reserve.
The situation is exactly the same with the first aid kit. You need to learn the combinations “6-3” (gunner), “6-2” (driver) and “6-1” (commander). The gunner should be treated if you are going to continue shooting at a distance exceeding 50 meters; the driver must be healed in close combat (otherwise you will be torn apart by tanks driving into the stern); finally, the commander can be healed if the gunner is not wounded, and you need to shoot into the distance - otherwise, with a wounded observer, you will shoot by touch.
Kill, nogebai, wait for the answer beep!
But let's continue preparing for the battle. While you are sitting in line for the game, you need to look at the keyboard and firmly imprint the designation of the F7 button in your brain. Previously, in the super-alpha test, when you pressed this key, air support was called, and the arriving planes crushed your offenders into mush. After the release, the developers removed the air support, mockingly leaving a chat message “Help needed!” when you press the button. So, now for PT players, especially beginners, this button replaces air support, three green whistles up, and even a level 89 action bolt, since it allows you to let the tanks hiding behind you know that something is wrong. Message “Help needed!” This very help will undoubtedly be attracted from you: your teammates will flock in a flock to take a free frag, who recklessly shoots you from the stern and therefore does not see anything around.
Also try to remember symbols machines that are present above each of them in battle. The square means the most desirable target, since it is self-propelled artillery. The triangle means your fellow sufferers, in the sense of PT. Solid diamond - light tank, a diamond with one line is medium, a diamond with two lines - well, what the heck. Be wary of vehicles with a diamond with two traits at first, as a heavy tank can kill in one hit.
But here it is - the first battle on an anti-tank self-propelled gun! Under the voice of a Gopnik from Mytishchi, “The battle begins!” boldly, at full speed, rush into the nearest bushes. Sit in them for at least half of the battle: if everything goes well, the team will win without you, and if everything goes badly, the enemies themselves will come to you.
To properly hide in the bushes, draw an imaginary line. One extreme point on it should be you, the second extreme should be the enemy, and between you there should be a bush, from which not a single part of your car should protrude, except the trunk. Only then will the game engine give you the coveted stealth ability, that is, ugh, invisibility.
You should only shoot at cars with red markers (and you need to shoot at them, despite the fact that cars with green ones are easier to hit - alas, these are the stupid conventions of the WoT world). Auto-aim is such a gadget, like in aviation, it tracks the movement of the target and automatically points the gun at it. To turn on auto-aim, you need to poke on the enemy right click mouse and wait for the message “Target captured!” Right-clicking on something other than an enemy vehicle will turn off auto-aim, which will be echoed by the message “Target lost!” Don’t forget to turn off the auto-aim if the target no longer interests you, otherwise the self-propelled gun will perform intricate maneuvers, trying to turn towards the enemy.
Despite the fact that half of the work is already done for you (the gun aims itself), in order to hit, you will have to work hard personally. In order for the bullet to hit the target, you need to wait until the sight is completely converged (that is, the convergence circle becomes the minimum diameter) and until the target marker coincides with the sight marker.
A little later, when you start exploring new guns, the question will arise: what type of shells to shoot (at first it wasn’t a question: firstly, noobs don’t even know about this issue, and secondly, at the first levels the enemies have enough armor-piercing )? Discard this question as unimportant and shoot exclusively with high explosives (high-explosive fragmentation shells, HE). This trick has a number of advantages. Firstly, the amount of armor penetration by an armor-piercing projectile decreases depending on the distance - but for landmines it does not decrease. Secondly, an armor-piercing projectile may ricochet or not penetrate - and with landmines such cases can be counted on one hand. And thirdly, when hit, a landmine will always cause damage to absolutely any enemy (even if it misses, there is a chance of hitting the enemy with a blast wave) - but with an armor-piercing one, everything is not so simple. Therefore, fill your ammunition rack with landmines and don’t worry.
Now that we’ve gotten to research (and what else should we do with experience), then I’ll say a few words about it. For self-propelled guns, the first thing you need to do is examine the chassis, since a clumsy self-propelled gun resembles a paralytic at an R’n’B party. Next, open the guns (the main weapon for producing frags, exp and credits), then the engine and, last but not least, the radio. Following exactly this order will allow you to kick - at first, of course, only tractors. And in order to knock down not only tractors, you need to move on to studying the next section of PTWD, which will upgrade your knowledge to a higher level.
Direct Hand Driver
In this section, together with you, we will work on pumping up your arms - after all, as you know, nothing, like PT, checks the straightness of the limbs.
Move around the terrain only by throwing from cover to cover, using the removed rev limiter (Soviet PT) or obscene language (German PT) for speedy acceleration. In open spaces, move in a straight line, but the segments of these same straight lines must be calculated so that while moving you are blocked from the enemy by some obstacle: a bush, a hill, a house, a fence, the corpse of an opponent, finally. This will make it more difficult for the enemy to hit you at the most inopportune time - while moving.
If while moving there is a risk of artillery fire or something terrible has happened - they are already hammering at you, move along a curve, and not symmetrical, otherwise on the next turn you will get a suitcase from artillery that has cut through your maneuvers. But you shouldn’t constantly wobble like a Markitan boat - the speed decreases when turning, which, again, makes the task of the artillery easier. Intersperse movement in a straight line with writing out sinusoids.
In the most difficult situation - the artillery is hammering at you while you are exchanging fire in close combat - you need to act as follows. Fight as usual (I will write below how to fight normally in this case), and after the death of the enemy, take 5 seconds for ritual dances. Ritual dances performed by the PT consist of sharp acceleration and braking, turning in all directions, and alternating movement back and forth. This is done so that the art does not estimate the trajectory of your linear movement from the corpse of your teammate, does not take the lead and does not kill you even after the light disappears.
But artillery is not all that threatens the stern nobator on the PT. Sometimes you will find yourself in a situation where a whole group of enemy vehicles is very close, which you won’t be able to kill quickly, but they will do very well. Let's leave the heroic death to the noobs and choose one of two options for the development of events. Option one: By maneuvering as described above, you drive past enemies at full speed. They may spit on you and continue to exchange fire with your teammates (great!), or they may turn around and give chase. Which is also excellent, since it will allow you to introduce bisparadok and piripaloch into the enemy’s ranks, and will also allow your partners to quickly shoot enemy vehicles in the sides and stern.
Option number two is to quickly shift the sail, turn and move again to maximum speed perpendicular to the enemy's imaginary line of defense. In this case, it is difficult to hit you and you can, having described a wide arc, return to your starting position side by side with your teammates. Yes, if it’s worth shooting during both options, it’s only without slowing down, at point-blank range, because with your sights not aligned you simply won’t hit a distant target.
“But if I shoot, will the ball be ruined?”
In general, you should only shoot from a tank gun from a stop, after full information sight. This requires strong nerves, which is why people with projectile incontinence often fail the test of self-propelled guns. In close combat, oddly enough, you need to shoot in exactly the same way - from a stop and complete (or almost complete) aim. But there is one big nuance - you have to move in between shots! A simple movement back or forward will do. This allows you to target artillery units and even tanks that are aimed manually. You need to stop the car in such a way that by the time reloading is completed, the sight is already fully aligned and all that remains is to pull down.
By the way, about the descent. If the noobs, as we saw at the beginning of the guide, play around exclusively with landmines, trumpeters use the entire palette of shells. Let's leave aside the “golden bullets” (essentially, these are improved armor-piercing shells) and once again take a closer look at the good old AP and HE. When should both be used?
Armor-piercing, as the name suggests, are designed to pierce the enemy’s skin at all costs and cause damage to him. Landmines, on the contrary, explode on armor and cause so-called armor damage. But, since the thickness of the armor affects the amount of armor-piercing damage, sometimes a hit with a land mine removes a significantly smaller percentage of lives than a hit with an armor-piercing projectile. From all this it follows that vehicles of the same level as you or less should be treated with armor-piercing weapons, vehicles a level or two higher should be treated with a combination, tops will have to be treated only with landmines, occasionally shooting AP at the sirloin parts. The combined operation of the BB-OF is as follows: having heard once again “Didn’t penetrate!”, we load a landmine into the breech and then work on the target only with it - why don’t you need non-penetration when you are about to be killed. With experience, you will learn to distinguish what certain enemies look like, and you will immediately shoot at them with the right type of shells.
It would also be useful to remind you that land mines, unlike armor-piercing ones, do not lose damage depending on the distance, so firefights from spawn to spawn should be carried out only with land mines. There, even if you don’t hit (which is not surprising - the distance is wow), you can hit the enemy with the blast wave.
Land mines should also be fired when guaranteed damage is needed, without any “Didn’t hit!” or “Ricochet!” That is, you have reduced the enemy with armor-piercing weapons to almost zero - it’s time to queue up a landmine and finish it off with it.
Finally, land mines, and not armor-piercing ones, should be fired at vehicles with an open wheelhouse. In this case, the HE often makes a one-shot, while the BB can spend two, or even three.
Shoot at the G-spot!
I’ll tell you another terrible secret that the PT sensei revealed to me: you need to shoot not just at the enemy, but at the enemy’s especially vulnerable zones. For all cars, regardless of class vulnerabilities are: stern (thin armor increases the damage dealt and often puts a critical hit on the engine); the back of the turret (the same plus the chance to blow up the tank by hitting it in the ammunition rack, which is usually located in this place of the turret); sides under the tower (same as in the previous case); the junction of the turret and the hull (you can damage the rotation mechanism of the turret, which will jam in a funny position); gun mask (chance to damage the gun); finally, caterpillars (immobilizing the enemy). Shooting at tracks should generally become a conditioned reflex for a tanker, since this way you can easily knock down an enemy tank in close combat. Therefore, practice hitting a moving tank in the middle of the side of the hull - firstly, it is easiest to get there, secondly, you will almost always knock off the caterpillar, and thirdly, the ammunition rack may explode.
Let's continue the topic of shooting. If the noobs, which you and I used to be, shoot exclusively from the auto-aim, but the trumpeters alternate such shooting with manual aiming. The algorithm is simple: at long distances you use auto-aim, in close combat and in battles with fast-moving tanks you shoot from your hands. Good hand shooting works in the good old PT way: you mark the point that our Schumacher should cross, wait for the sight to be aligned and, taking into account the lead, press the trigger.
Sniper mode shooting, which comes out when you press Shift and which was almost never used before (it is not needed on auto-aim and in close combat), suddenly makes sense in the trumpeter mode. You need to look through the sight in two cases: when only a piece of the enemy behind an obstacle is visible, which you need to aim at manually, or when you shoot at a car with which your teammate is carouseling. In the latter case, peeping is needed in order not to accidentally kill your own - after all, 300-400 meters away you can see who is in your this moment on auto-aim, very difficult.
Blood type
Now let's move on to the blood type, that is, to the tactics of action in the group. Don't think that tru-PT-nogebators operate in McQuaid's lone wolf style - this style is reserved only for noobs. Competent work together with tanks is the key to the team’s victory.
In order to win competently, first of all the PTvod must take care of the problem of light. If tanks have more or less learned to shine their art in six months of playing, then the need to shine on anti-tank self-propelled guns is a revelation for the vast majority. Therefore, do not be shy, ask your teammates’ tanks to shine in the chat, including the “onotole indignant” mode when you see light tanks behind you in the bushes. Moreover, do not hesitate to shine your own light on your heavy tanks and heavy tanks - believe me, with your light they will cut down enemies faster and more than you.
Since the light in the game, alas, does not last forever, you need to cherish every second of it. To do this, follow the fireflies about two squares away and ask them not to pretend to be a Moscow minibus if they get too far away.
Since cultural and educational work with fireflies requires a lot of writing in chat, learn to write on the job, right on the move. To do this, outline a route, press the R button three times and write as much as you like. If everything is very bad, then you will have to press the F button three times, which provides reverse movement. In this case, do not forget to tell in detail what you think about the lighting, art, balance and developers.
Let's move on to def art (defense of artillery self-propelled guns). In general, def art is not the business of the tank tanks, which should deal with their direct responsibilities - destroying enemy tanks. But, since most of your team’s tanks will immediately go into a senseless and merciless rush, and also since the positions of the tanks at the beginning of the game are close to the positions of the artillery, you will most likely have to defend them. Correct def art with the efforts of a PT is very simple: you need to stand in the bushes at least 2 cells away from them (and in general, the farther the better) and hide. Thus, you ensure that enemies are exposed and give the artillery time to deal with the enemies hungry for a defenseless artillery body.
Finally, let’s figure out how the trumpeter pumps the crew of a self-propelled gun and what equipment it carries with it. Let's start in order. First of all, the Tru-nogebator upgrades the gunner for credits, or even gold, then the loader, then the commander. It would be nice, of course, to upgrade the entire crew at once, but this is not always available from the very beginning of the game. Among the perks (skills), self-propelled vehicles together and the entire crew upgrade their camouflage, and the second one undergoes repairs. Occasionally, you can use one of the second perks for firefighting.
As for the equipment, at the first opportunity a masknet is installed on the machine. When used correctly (see competent ducking in the bushes) it gives big advantage, turning the self-propelled gun into a stealth tank. However, it should be remembered that the reticle “turns on” only 5 seconds after the PT has frozen, and its effect disappears as soon as the tank moves its hull. However, if you learned the advice at the beginning of the guide, you will choose a position such that you do not need to move your body.
The second module that all trumpet generators have is a stereopipe. It allows you to increase the visibility from a stationary tank to 500 meters (the principle of operation of the pipe is exactly the same as that of the network), which will allow you to notice the enemy and close on him long before he notices you. In addition, this will allow you to shoot from the longest possible distances, since without a pipe there is often a situation where there is light on the mini-map, but the enemies themselves are not visible.
I would recommend installing the rammer as the third module, since it is universal. Just don’t forget that while the mesh and pipe can be moved from machine to machine, this trick won’t work with a rammer. You can replace it with another module only by selling the old machine (with the rammer) and buying a new one.
How to Kill Bill
Well, my young friend, now you have turned from a noob into a labor operator and already have a PT of one of the last levels. But how to conquer the greatest peaks of self-propelled gun craft? How to turn from a trun-hebator into a folder? How to kill Bill, who is behind Slava Makarov and who is the weakest link? The answers to these and many other questions can be obtained by reading the final few paragraphs of this invaluable guide.
So, in order to kill Bill and many others on the American server, preparation for the battle, as always, should begin before the start of it. That is, during the announcement of the composition of the teams. Observing the situation, try to predict the initial actions of the enemy. If the enemy has few heavy weapons and you have good artillery, they will most likely move along the path least covered by artillery (along the embankment in Prokhorovka, in the gorge in Karelia, and so on). The enemy has a lot of medium tanks, especially top ones - it is quite possible that they will all rush together. The enemy has a lot of PT - which means that with almost 100% probability they will pretend to be defensive. The enemy has a lot of artillery - in open space you need to prepare to wobble like the entire PQ-17 convoy combined so as not to repeat its fate. The enemy has a hell of a lot of art - only a rush will save the father of Russian democracy. The enemy has enough light, which means that first you need to defy and shoot the uninvited guests so that the enemy does not take full advantage of his crap art. And so on and so forth - having predicted the enemy’s tactics and outlined the contours of your own actions, you are one step ahead, which means this is a strong claim to victory. Based on the conclusions, take optimal positions and meet the enemy fully armed.
The next tip is to watch the minimap. It is on it that tanks sneaking up on you from behind, flanking, and the universal arctic fox are indicated. Since the PT in ambush has time to carefully examine the minimap, don’t be lazy to give hints to your teammates by highlighting the squares and accompanying them with comments like “IS, 48%.” Just don’t forget that anyone who quickly points at the card a hundred times is gay. It's better to be a folder than a gay.
Try to coordinate the fire of your teammates. It’s an amazing thing - in Starcraft, players felt in their spines that all units should be given the command to take down enemies one by one - but in WoT for some reason they forgot how to do this. Don't miss the chance to let them remember everything and press the T button when hovering the cursor over the target - perhaps someone, seeing that you are hitting the highlighted tank, will join you. With concentrated fire, even tops burst quickly and funny, just like a BT-2 from a Bison hit.
Goal priorities. Since you are already a folder without five minutes (in the game, of course, although if you didn’t protect yourself...), and not a noob, you understand that when Fedya rushes after the firefly, it reveals that he is a hell of a noob. Therefore, learn to prioritize your goals. First of all, and always, you need to shoot at the illuminated artillery - in this case, act as quickly as Riki-Tiki-Tavi at the sight of a snake. Don’t forget to put a landmine in the queue, if you are shooting with an armor-piercing one - the first shot may not hit the target, and the artillery, as we remember, needs to be shot with landmines.
Then you need to solve a difficult problem. On the one hand, it is easy to kill slow or standing targets - this is what PTs and enemy heavy units are guilty of. On the other hand, it’s also not worth getting kills on enemy Hetzers while the T-44s are dismantling your artillery. Therefore, the priority can be formulated as follows: if there are no special circumstances, shooting is primarily carried out at targets that are standing or moving slowly with small heading angles. Moreover, you should first wet your fellow PTs, who, due to their low silhouette and powerful gun pose a great threat to teammates.
Let's move on to the mandatory element of almost any battle - close combat. In close combat, try to stay as far away from the enemy vehicle as possible, moving in reverse to do this. If you can, remove the tracks from the enemy, which will turn him into a stationary fat target. When fighting with cars that are significantly lower in level than you, feel free to use a ram - it will help save projectiles and remove danger. Also use a ram if the enemy comes close - when butting with the enemy, you will be sure that you will always face him with a cannon and powerful frontal armor. Again, when ramming into the side, you remove the track from the enemy.
If it hasn’t come to the point of butting yet and the enemy is running circles around you, you shouldn’t wait until you get dizzy and vomit. Apply anti-spin - firstly, stop spinning in one place and hold down the S button. Secondly, if the enemy is already on your tail and it is very difficult to throw him off, suddenly start moving in the opposite side, and even with forward acceleration. Since now you and the enemy are spinning towards each other, he may lose control and fly right under your gun, or this will force him to slow down and, having lost precious seconds, accelerate in the other direction. Third, try to stay close to any obstacle that the enemy circling around you should stick into. You should lean your stern against it with caution: an insidious enemy can gently rub against you side by side, nullifying all your attempts not to die.
End
Well, that's all, my young friend! Now, after reading this guide, you have turned from a noob into a mega-folder, which will definitely take the 101st place in the rating (the first hundred are still occupied by the collective accounts of sad nerd donors). Proudly carry the PT-water banner into the world and remember: someday we will take over the whole world!
Hello tanker! In this article I will briefly describe my recommendations on what to do and what not to do. If you want to play competently, read and watch more guides.
Immediately set up your computer so that it is pleasant to play without freezes and delays (it is advisable that the FPS does not drop below 25), sacrifice some effects to increase your efficiency. If your computer is weak, read the article "", it will help you.
Choose the branch that you will swing wisely and immediately, so that later you don’t get scattered and get lost in the choice. Decide which game you like best, light tanks (LT) - fast and sharp, always on the edge, medium tanks (ST) - quick game, more maneuverable than heavy tanks, but slower than light ones, anti-tank self-propelled artillery installations (tank destroyer) - game in the bushes, we play for maximum damage, heavy tanks(TT) - the game is in the forefront, the backbone of the game is here, self-propelled artillery units(self-propelled guns or art) - 70% of the time playing with one hand, not for everyone.
Having reached level 8 in the game there will not be enough credits, so leave either a level 5-6 tank (since they are the most profitable, you can read more in) in the hangar for farming (earning) credits, or buy a premium account every month, and if you want to save time, then buy yourself a premium tank, better than 8, I sincerely recommend only 8 (before buying, decide carefully, the amount is not small 1-1.5k rubles).
In battle, do not try to be in the forefront, i.e. Don’t fly headlong, try to support your allies. Don’t try to get into company battles until you have gained experience, good statistics (at least 5000 battles and 50% victories). On the forum, do not try to ask questions that immediately arise in your head, as a rule, they have already been asked more than once, use the search, otherwise the local trolls will teach you what you shouldn’t do.
If you play as a PT, try to occupy bushes, and bushes that are hidden by other bushes, this is the only way you can remain hidden after the shot. If you play for TT, you have to take the blow on yourself, but not always and not expose yourself. If you play as a ST, try to maneuver, expose more ricocheting sides and help by highlighting the enemy a little. If you play on LT, shine, your number one goal is to shine, a lot depends on you; if you are on a light tank, play well, your ally will support you, the chance of winning is higher; merged at the beginning of the battle - the ally plays blind if there is no other light. If you play on art, honestly don’t play on self-propelled guns, but I’ll give you some advice, don’t light up, after every shot I’m in position, otherwise you can be killed (sent to the hangar) by tracers.
As a rule, a clan needs high-quality players who play with dedication, I advise you to gain experience, 5k+ fights, 50%+ stats, increase efficiency (although some stats are not important, but in fact, I think they play an important role), a couple or three good TTs (even the top one is better, i.e. level 10) and join the clan. And most importantly, try to survive every battle, don’t fade away, as much as possible from you, never blend in in the front row, but don’t constantly stand in the bushes, you should always be useful.
Here is an introductory briefing for a novice tanker or novice, whichever is more convenient for you. I think if I had one like this instructions for Newbie World of Tanks, when I started, my efficiency would have started to increase noticeably earlier. Play with pleasure and don’t join the ranks of deer; believe me, there are plenty of them in World of Tanks.
During general test In Update 9.19, many players put a lot of effort into Ranked Battles, fighting against opponents whose strength increased with each rank they gained. But, while the intensity of passions has not reached its climax (and this will definitely happen when the beta season begins “ Ranked battles"), you can relax and think about how best to spend the bonds earned in the new mode.
For bonds (and only for them!) you can purchase pre-battle instructions and improved equipment, which are used both in random and ranked battles, clan battles, tournaments, etc., increasing the efficiency of your vehicle and crew. And now more details.
Advanced Equipment
In update 9.19, 6 types of advanced equipment will become available. They will work similarly to standard equipment, but with some differences: improved equipment will give a greater bonus to the parameters of the equipment it is installed on, and improved equipment does not have classes. In addition, it will not be possible to install standard and upgraded equipment of the same type at the same time. For example, it is impossible to simultaneously install a Rammer and an Experimental Loading System on a vehicle. When preparing your car for battle, you will have to choose one thing.
- Powder gas removal system increases the level of proficiency in the main specialty, as well as all skills and abilities of crew members by 7.5%.
- Stabilization equipment complex reduces dispersion when moving and when turning the turret by 25%.
- Reduces reload time by 12.5%.
- Wear-resistant aiming drives increase mixing speed by 12.5%.
- Adjusted optics increases the viewing radius by 12.5%, but not more than 445 m.
- Extended set of spare parts increases repair speed by 40%.
To install advanced equipment, simply left-click on the equipment slot in the Hangar and select the “Advanced Equipment” tab. Installed advanced equipment can be dismantled for 200 and reinstalled on any machine that can be equipped with conventional equipment of this type. For example, C powder gas removal system cannot be installed on equipment with an open deckhouse, and Experimental loading system cannot be installed on vehicles with a magazine loading system, such as Bat.-Châtillon 25 t, etc.
Pre-battle instructions
In addition to improved equipment, bonds can be used to purchase special personal reserves called pre-battle instructions: six to strengthen equipment and nine to improve crew skills and abilities. One pre-battle instruction is valid for one battle. Depending on the type, pre-combat instructions increase the performance characteristics of the vehicle, enhance the learned or activate the unlearned skills of the crew.
Pre-battle instructions for equipment enhance the effect of installed equipment. For example, you installed a Rammer, Stabilizer and Coated Optics. Then you activate the pre-combat instruction for any of the installed equipment - and in next battle the piece of equipment you choose will perform its role even more efficiently.
To install pre-battle instructions, select the required one and click on it - if there is a sufficient number of bonds, it will be purchased. To avoid unintentionally wasting bonds on pre-battle instructions, the automatic replenishment option is disabled by default. If necessary, it can be activated - and after the end of the battle, the pre-battle instructions that were used in the battle will be automatically replenished.
Depending on the type, the cost of improved equipment ranges from 3,000 to 5,000, and pre-combat instructions - from 2 to 12. Bonuses will be awarded at the end of each stage (their number depends on the rank obtained) and at the end of the season (their number depends on the position taken in the ranking). For example, if you complete a stage in rank IV, you will receive 400. For rank III you will receive 300, for rank II - 200, and rank V will give you 500. If you stay at rank I, you will receive 100. If you are among the top 10% of players in the ranking, you will receive 5,750. Players in the next 15% will receive 3,250. And those who fall into the next 25% will earn 1,500.
During the Ranked Battles beta season, we will be closely monitoring statistics and your feedback on improved equipment and pre-battle instructions. We will analyze the collected information and, if necessary, change their cost, effect and terms of use. Of course, as always, we will keep you updated on any changes.
Now, after reviewing the new products that can be purchased with bonds, it’s time to concentrate before the start of the Ranked Battles beta season. Gain ranks and earn bonds to use pre-battle instructions and advanced equipment to maximize your effectiveness in battle!
